Question: Timing belt
#1
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Well, I recently acquired a 1984 944
I don't have any history on the car, so I like to change all the belts.
Just wondering are these all the things I need?
944online.com is selling this package.
Is the price good? Do I need to get anything else?
water pump kit - 83 - 89 944 including turbo - $465
new updated water pump
new timing belt
new balance shaft belt
new 4 rollers
new front seal kit
new oil cooler seal kit
thermostat
I don't have any history on the car, so I like to change all the belts.
Just wondering are these all the things I need?
944online.com is selling this package.
Is the price good? Do I need to get anything else?
![](http://www.944online.com/images/P1160017small.jpg)
water pump kit - 83 - 89 944 including turbo - $465
new updated water pump
new timing belt
new balance shaft belt
new 4 rollers
new front seal kit
new oil cooler seal kit
thermostat
#2
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I never dealt with them, make sure to get the sleeves if you're doing the seals, lateley I've been buying from lindsey pricewise he's just about as good and if you have a problem with anything even with the install Dave ans staff are a ton of help.
#3
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sounds like a good price to me, if you install that pump you will have to modify the rear timing cover. Avoid the temptation to simply drill holes for the belt guard and extra roller, if you do that the belt will rub on the inside of the cover and the additional roller will not turn and will chew up the back of the cam belt. There was a tech bulletin about the update some years ago that detailed how to modify the cover.
Good luck and have fun with it.
Good luck and have fun with it.
#4
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944online is a great source. In addition to the normal tools, you also need the Porsche belt tension tool (or facsimile thereof at your own risk), flywheel lock, gear puller set, and a BIG breaker bar for the crank bolt.
#5
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Does he really need to update the oil cooler seal?
I thought it was 87-89 that had the redesigned (defective) oil cooler.
Zim's prices it separately... www.allzim.com. I'm not sure if it will be cheaper than the total you have. You can always call them as well to see if they also sell I kit. I have used Zim's before with no problems.
I thought it was 87-89 that had the redesigned (defective) oil cooler.
Zim's prices it separately... www.allzim.com. I'm not sure if it will be cheaper than the total you have. You can always call them as well to see if they also sell I kit. I have used Zim's before with no problems.
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Thanks for the replys....
Mochman, what sleeves are you talking about? sorry, I have never done these things before....I will have a mechanic friend that will help me. If you have picture, that would be great!
MHT, are the updated pump that much better? or should I just find the original ones?
Mochman, what sleeves are you talking about? sorry, I have never done these things before....I will have a mechanic friend that will help me. If you have picture, that would be great!
MHT, are the updated pump that much better? or should I just find the original ones?
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Both balance shafts and the distributor have sleeves that ride over the actual shafts. The sleeve is what the seal rides against on the outside. The other end of the sleeve has a seal, I think it's mylar some call it the onion skin seal, that goes between it and the back of the housing. Replace these when doing the seals so it seals properly. I'll scan a picture and post it tomorrow on this thread.
#9
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Unless your car has like 35,000 miles.the pump should already be updated.. I would not touch the oil cooler unless it is leaking. Question is was it a daily driver or parked for a long time? Doing the entire front end the first time is a huge project. 2 days by yourself and get procedures from the archives.. You will need a spanner wrench, nota common size. a belt tensioning tool. see clarks garage.com. various large sized sockets... Read the archives on belt changes and seal changes, and WP replacement.. beforeyou buy anything.. Its free.. and buy a membership.. its cheap and you are gonna need it,, also as badas it is a haynes manual will help..but is nota tell all..Just don't want to see you get in over your head on the first of many projects yet to come... Welcome aboard!!!! it is a long trip many waves.. just remember how good it was to drive..
Edit, Unless you get in there and actually see oil leaks, or that the pump is not updated.. I would put all that stuff away and just do rollers and belts.. I would buy the kit.. If the pump is theoldstyle then I would do it all.. Just my 2 cents.. goodluck...
Edit, Unless you get in there and actually see oil leaks, or that the pump is not updated.. I would put all that stuff away and just do rollers and belts.. I would buy the kit.. If the pump is theoldstyle then I would do it all.. Just my 2 cents.. goodluck...
#10
Nordschleife Master
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SCAN auto in North Van will do it for probably less than what that kit will cost you after shipping and duty. seriously. call Andy first.. He'll do it properly the first time and only take a day.
do you need the number?
do you need the number?
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I had my water pump, timing and balance belt, all rollers, all front seals, and an ignition rotor replaced at SCAN by James a couple of months ago for a pretty decent price (when referring to these jobs!)...I go there all the time, they are great
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#12
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If it's your first one, and you didn't have a PPI done, and you live somewhere where there's a good mechanic, I'd recommend taking it to that mechanic and letting him look it over before you start ordering parts you might not need.
It'll probably be the best $200 you ever spend on your car.
Congrats!
It'll probably be the best $200 you ever spend on your car.
Congrats!
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Thanks for the reply guys...
Rich, what's the number for SCAN auto?
How much would it cost roughly to do the belts?
Friendan, how much did your job cost?
Where do you guys get parts? or do you guys let SCAN auto do everything?
I need a new Rad. too.
Thanks again, guys.
Rich, what's the number for SCAN auto?
How much would it cost roughly to do the belts?
Friendan, how much did your job cost?
Where do you guys get parts? or do you guys let SCAN auto do everything?
I need a new Rad. too.
Thanks again, guys.
#14
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It's a good price for the kit. Don't know how it will be once it clears customs though.
I'd also second very strongly changing the sleeves on the balance shafts and cam. Those are routinely neglected when doing this job, but with age are the usual source of leaks. The other thing to remember is that seals are directional. Make sure to put the right seal, with the right rotation in the right place. Don't skip replacing the balance shaft O rings too. Those get hard with age and usually need replacing.
I'd replace everything except the oil cooler seals. It's another case of "while you're in there". I'd rather replace all of it and have a known base line for the engine front than guess when a seal will eventually give and spew on the timing and balance belts, causing a failure.
While the 9201 is debatable, a flywheel lock is not. It CAN be done without it, but I wouldn't. A big breaker bar is also necessary as is a torque wrench. One other thing is to make sure the crank nut is retorqued properly or you won't make oil pressure.
Don't be scared of this job, it's just a bit long. Welcome to the group, now have at the wrenches, wenches, or whatever.
I'd also second very strongly changing the sleeves on the balance shafts and cam. Those are routinely neglected when doing this job, but with age are the usual source of leaks. The other thing to remember is that seals are directional. Make sure to put the right seal, with the right rotation in the right place. Don't skip replacing the balance shaft O rings too. Those get hard with age and usually need replacing.
I'd replace everything except the oil cooler seals. It's another case of "while you're in there". I'd rather replace all of it and have a known base line for the engine front than guess when a seal will eventually give and spew on the timing and balance belts, causing a failure.
While the 9201 is debatable, a flywheel lock is not. It CAN be done without it, but I wouldn't. A big breaker bar is also necessary as is a torque wrench. One other thing is to make sure the crank nut is retorqued properly or you won't make oil pressure.
Don't be scared of this job, it's just a bit long. Welcome to the group, now have at the wrenches, wenches, or whatever.