1988 944s ... Rear Suspension Fade
#1
1988 944s ... Rear Suspension Fade
I recently purchased a 944s with the idea I could do most of the work myself. Item number one was to fix the rear suspension that was rubbing the wheel well. Found out I could lift it about an inch or so using the elliptical bolt and wallah, it worked. For a day...
Took it to a mechanic, just to ensure I wasn't immensely stupid and he set it. And Wallah !! It worked.... for a day ....
Soo, what is wrong. Is this fade common. I have read everyone wanting to drop their height but I am actually trying to adjust it up and keep it there. I feel like I am missing something simple.
Help me before I just weld it and move on with the next item on the list.
Took it to a mechanic, just to ensure I wasn't immensely stupid and he set it. And Wallah !! It worked.... for a day ....
Soo, what is wrong. Is this fade common. I have read everyone wanting to drop their height but I am actually trying to adjust it up and keep it there. I feel like I am missing something simple.
Help me before I just weld it and move on with the next item on the list.
#2
I would not say this is a common issue, but I also wouldn't say I understand your problem. What part of the suspension is rubbing on the wheel well? The only upright member of the suspension in the rear is the shock, which couldn't physically rub the wheel well. If you mean your tire is hitting the wheel well, then your problem is very likely an improperly indexed torsion bar. It is free (but difficult) to fix this as it requires dropping the rear subframe.
Also, if you've done your research at all, you probably already know that the timing and balance belts are the first piece of maintenence you should do. Don't take this lightly; it's an interference engine and will shred itself if you snap a belt.
Edit: If you do fix the problem using only the elliptical, perhaps it's falling due to a lack of torque on the bolt. That is some seriously large hardware and you probably need to torque it down with a lot of force.
Also, if you've done your research at all, you probably already know that the timing and balance belts are the first piece of maintenence you should do. Don't take this lightly; it's an interference engine and will shred itself if you snap a belt.
Edit: If you do fix the problem using only the elliptical, perhaps it's falling due to a lack of torque on the bolt. That is some seriously large hardware and you probably need to torque it down with a lot of force.
#3
Yup, understand and the good thing is the car came with a complete history with receipts. The water pump and timing belt and all assorted work was done about a year ago by a reputable local shop. So I am good there.
I was really hoping I would not have to re-index the torsion bars but if I have to then I will. It just seems like its a bear of a project for the first thing to tackle.
What gets me is the height is fine on initial adjustment but then the adjustment gets lost.
I was really hoping I would not have to re-index the torsion bars but if I have to then I will. It just seems like its a bear of a project for the first thing to tackle.
What gets me is the height is fine on initial adjustment but then the adjustment gets lost.
#4
Racer
Did the elliptical bolt rotate back down or did the rear end drift down with the elliptical bolt rotated up? Can you remove a wheel and post a picture of the trailing arm and spring plate?
#6
Drifting
Suspension hardware should be replaced and torqued to the proper specifications.
The height eccentric is specified to 180 ft-#s. From memory the camber bolt is 65 and the other two are 75. They will not hold after a few cycles and that is why the manual specifies replacement. Most manufacturers require the same.
The height eccentric is specified to 180 ft-#s. From memory the camber bolt is 65 and the other two are 75. They will not hold after a few cycles and that is why the manual specifies replacement. Most manufacturers require the same.