Gauge Lights
11-28-2003, 09:51 AM
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It was pretty easy to remove the gauges, just remove 12 screws and three sets of cables and it's off. Clarksgarage has a really good tutorial, click here.
11-28-2003, 09:52 AM
#17
Race Car
Randy_J, in response to yours, you get 3 bulbs, they will fit directly into the factory bulb holders, and you don't _have_ to resurface the reflectors. Although for anybody with dim lights I would recommend it, and to get full effect it is required. It is very simple, and even if you do a bad job, they still work (I've seen some pretty poorly done reflectors that still work well). Once you have the gauges off, just remove all the old finish with some acetone or nail polish remover, cut tin foil (shiny side in) to fit, and secure all the edges with scotch tape. People will recommend a whole pile of other options, like even new reflectors, but I don't think that is necessary unless you are looking for the absolute maximum brightness. (BTW, I have also heard chrome nail polish works?? I have never tried this.)
It takes about 10 minutes for me to take mine out, but I have done it ohhhh... 75 times? It should take about 25 minuites the first time. Do you have instructions on how to remove them?...
1. Remove steering wheel cover (Sorry, mine is GT Grant, can't help you here, was told it just pops off).
2. Remove the 24mm bolt holding the steering wheel on (it shouldn't be very tight).
3. BEFORE you pull the wheel off, either center the wheels and remember that, or use whiteout or a grease marker to mark the position of the shaft through the steering wheel onto the steering wheel itself.
4. Pull the steering wheel off (go figuire =)
5. Remove the 2 phillips screws underneath the gauges (pointing up, on each side of the steering column, may have to feel for them.
6. Remove the 3 screws through the top of the plastic trim infront of the gauges (A stubby works well here)
7. Remove the 3 screws through the vents, one top left, one bottom left (above and below the odometer reset), and the one at the far right end.
8. Gently coax the trim out of the dash. I find I put a screwdriver through the vents on the right side of it, and start at that end, once I get it out an inch, then I pull the driver's side free, it may be necessary to bend the bottom part of the trim to fit over the steering column. Once it comes out about an inch, the right side will have to lift up to continue coming out. (Once it's out you will understand why).
9. VERY IMPORTANT. Check the bottom of the plastic trim you just removed, underneath where the gauges are, ensure you still have both metal clips that the bottom 2 screws went into, and either lay the trim down on it's back, so the 3 screws on the right don't fall out, or remove them (if you remove them, you'll probably regret it when you go to re-install the trim).
10. There are (usually) 4 screws holding the gauges themselves in, mine only had 3 left from the PO's hack job on the interior. remove all 4 screws.
11. Pull the gauges forward until they reach the back of the steering column, then coax them forward a little more, over the top of the black plastic behind where the steering wheel was. The wires should have enough give to get them this far. Starting with the connector on the left side (when facing the gauges, not the rear of them), spread the plastic clips, and pull the connector off. These clips may be very stiff, at several times I have been worried mine will snap.
12. Then twist that end of the gauges out, giving you a good view of the other 2 connectors.
13. If you are simply changing the bulbs, there are 3 larger holders at the bottom, it is now disassembled sufficiently to allow the removal and installation of the bulb holders.
14. However if you are removing the gauges, mark the connectors, and spread the clips and pull them off as well. These are important not to switch (I believe you can). Normally if they have been in there for a while, the wires will retain enough shape that you can tell where they attached, otherwise they should be marked.
15. Now the gauges are free, resurface them, paint them pink, whatever floats your boat.
16. In Haynes style, installation is the reverse of removal.
(on installation, the 3 screws that hold the trim through the vents are usually quite a PITA to screw back in, as they tend to fall out a little, and rest behind one of the vanes on the vent.
If you already knew this, sorry for wasting valuable message board space. However if you did not, hope it was informative =)
It takes about 10 minutes for me to take mine out, but I have done it ohhhh... 75 times? It should take about 25 minuites the first time. Do you have instructions on how to remove them?...
1. Remove steering wheel cover (Sorry, mine is GT Grant, can't help you here, was told it just pops off).
2. Remove the 24mm bolt holding the steering wheel on (it shouldn't be very tight).
3. BEFORE you pull the wheel off, either center the wheels and remember that, or use whiteout or a grease marker to mark the position of the shaft through the steering wheel onto the steering wheel itself.
4. Pull the steering wheel off (go figuire =)
5. Remove the 2 phillips screws underneath the gauges (pointing up, on each side of the steering column, may have to feel for them.
6. Remove the 3 screws through the top of the plastic trim infront of the gauges (A stubby works well here)
7. Remove the 3 screws through the vents, one top left, one bottom left (above and below the odometer reset), and the one at the far right end.
8. Gently coax the trim out of the dash. I find I put a screwdriver through the vents on the right side of it, and start at that end, once I get it out an inch, then I pull the driver's side free, it may be necessary to bend the bottom part of the trim to fit over the steering column. Once it comes out about an inch, the right side will have to lift up to continue coming out. (Once it's out you will understand why).
9. VERY IMPORTANT. Check the bottom of the plastic trim you just removed, underneath where the gauges are, ensure you still have both metal clips that the bottom 2 screws went into, and either lay the trim down on it's back, so the 3 screws on the right don't fall out, or remove them (if you remove them, you'll probably regret it when you go to re-install the trim).
10. There are (usually) 4 screws holding the gauges themselves in, mine only had 3 left from the PO's hack job on the interior. remove all 4 screws.
11. Pull the gauges forward until they reach the back of the steering column, then coax them forward a little more, over the top of the black plastic behind where the steering wheel was. The wires should have enough give to get them this far. Starting with the connector on the left side (when facing the gauges, not the rear of them), spread the plastic clips, and pull the connector off. These clips may be very stiff, at several times I have been worried mine will snap.
12. Then twist that end of the gauges out, giving you a good view of the other 2 connectors.
13. If you are simply changing the bulbs, there are 3 larger holders at the bottom, it is now disassembled sufficiently to allow the removal and installation of the bulb holders.
14. However if you are removing the gauges, mark the connectors, and spread the clips and pull them off as well. These are important not to switch (I believe you can). Normally if they have been in there for a while, the wires will retain enough shape that you can tell where they attached, otherwise they should be marked.
15. Now the gauges are free, resurface them, paint them pink, whatever floats your boat.
16. In Haynes style, installation is the reverse of removal.
(on installation, the 3 screws that hold the trim through the vents are usually quite a PITA to screw back in, as they tend to fall out a little, and rest behind one of the vanes on the vent.
If you already knew this, sorry for wasting valuable message board space. However if you did not, hope it was informative =)
11-28-2003, 02:50 PM
#20
Lackey:
When I went to Speedhut, they only showed 928 gauges...I am assuming they are the same for the 944. I don't really like the way the gauge faces are cut out so that the idiot lights can show through.
I wish someone made white face gauges for the later cars with the airbag indicator and without the upshift light or that rectangular window above the oil/fuel gauge.
Oh well...
When I went to Speedhut, they only showed 928 gauges...I am assuming they are the same for the 944. I don't really like the way the gauge faces are cut out so that the idiot lights can show through.
I wish someone made white face gauges for the later cars with the airbag indicator and without the upshift light or that rectangular window above the oil/fuel gauge.
Oh well...
11-29-2003, 10:29 AM
#21
Burning Brakes
Ummmm, my gauges have no cutouts. The pic at the bottom is the old gauge faces. Sorry you didn't like them zero but they really do look 100 times better than any solution I've tried including different LED solutions. If you saw it in person maybe you'd change your mind. People that do think its factory and makes the car look like a new car. Oh well.
11-29-2003, 11:11 AM
#23
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: central wisconsin
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i used a complete kit from 9xauto.com
works great!
you might want to check it out. included complete instructions!
25bucks complete
good luck!
buckshot wi
works great!
you might want to check it out. included complete instructions!
25bucks complete
good luck!
buckshot wi
11-29-2003, 12:48 PM
#24
Burning Brakes
Zero those instructions are pitiful ...pitiful
'
'
'
'
'
''
'
'
'
'
''
'''
nah they are brilliant m8 honest.
I definitely feel confident enough now to have a go tomorrow with your instructions . Hope it all goes back as easy as it comes out....
'
'
'
'
'
''
'
'
'
'
''
'''
nah they are brilliant m8 honest.
I definitely feel confident enough now to have a go tomorrow with your instructions . Hope it all goes back as easy as it comes out....
11-29-2003, 09:32 PM
#25
Race Car
Just be careful. One of the more important things is, you may have to flex the dashboard itself upwards about 1/4" to get the gauges out, it's a pretty snug fit, although for some reason they always go in fine. Just watch the circuit board on the back, it's just a sheet of plastic, heh.
I considered the glowing gauges for a little while, and decided against them. I dunno, I like the way mine look. To each their own, right?
I considered the glowing gauges for a little while, and decided against them. I dunno, I like the way mine look. To each their own, right?
11-30-2003, 01:12 AM
#27
Race Car
Just let me know, and I'll make you a set, I have 1 set of white, red, amber and blue, if people want more than one set, or more than one person wants the same set, I will need a little lead time to track down some bulb holders to make another. I am under the impression that other bulb holders will fit... Perhaps I will investigate, the dealer ones are a tad pricey.