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Due to Rennlist changing styles I haven't been able to update this thread. I was able to switch back to the old style eventually. Joy.
The upshot reveals a problem with Motive power bleeders I'll pass on here.
Last night I filled my bleeder with 2L of new ATE fluid, bled one caliper and decided to call it a day. I left the bleeder pressurized and connected to the car.
This morning I went out to the shop and found about 2L of brake fluid all over the car and my shop floor, bleeder empty. Apparently you don't leave these things unattended.
Now I need to clean the fluid off the car. I've heard brake fluid will eat paint. I've rubbed it down with rags but there's still a film of fluid on the car. Does anyone know how to get this stuff off so it won't eat the paint?
Thanks,
Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 08-02-2017 at 02:14 PM.
Here ya go, Not We buy allot of Dyes from this company, our chemist will ask for samples, and test, This is one of those "test samples" Not sure if you can just call up and order without having an acct?
- Glen.
I'm no chemist, but dyeing brake fluid to turn it blue just doesn't seem right to me.
There's no benefit to this and your introducing something foreign to the braking system.
I'm no chemist, but dyeing brake fluid to turn it blue just doesn't seem right to me.
There's no benefit to this and your introducing something foreign to the braking system.
I hear ya.
I take it that they want to use the blue as an indicator on when to stop flushing their older non-blue fluid.
But what about next time....back to ATE non-blue....?
A different colored dye...?
I hope this dye has a boiling point past 550F.
Even on my ex full weight 87 944T (power modded) I boiled ATE fluid and melted the valve stem caps off braking 140-50 at NPR just in a DE setting with all the factory 944T brake cooling aids intact.
This fluid is reasonably priced and good for spirited street driving.....past that, you are gonna pay a big premium for +30-50F boiling point that gets you over the hump of worrying about gas bubbles aerating your fluid.
Well the way I look at it that ATE Dyed their fluid for years and still are because it is available in other countries. The AMOUNT of dye that is in it is SO small that they done even list it on the MSDS sheet.
Basically most everything we buy that is Aqueous has dye in it. (Except for milk)... but Rad Fluid, Windshield washer, Even the the stuff we drink.. It just makes life so much easier to open a bleeder, sit back, do something else or drink beer while the caliper drips... after it turns color close and onto the next bleeder. when they have all turned different colors its done! I have never had an issue, and have always had "pedal" when its finished, no need for power bleeders, or assistance.. and have always switched from amber to blue back to amber and so on...
I ... have always switched from amber to blue back to amber and so on...
That's why I use two colors as well. It's the most economical way to bleed the brakes. If you don't do a color change, you have to go by volume, which isn't very precise.
If you're only bleeding your brakes every ten years it isn't a big deal, and I can say for certain that my long time friend and confidant (who shall remain nameless) hasn't ever changed the brake fluid in his 2000 Dodge Durango. I know this because he's been parking it in my garage next to my wife's car for the past 17 years
But if you're tracking the car, the brake fluid gets changed between races. That adds up. Fast. Especially when your power bleeder takes a dump on you over night and blows 2L of fluid all over.
Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 08-03-2017 at 03:02 PM.
I take it that they want to use the blue as an indicator on when to stop flushing their older non-blue fluid.
Yes, that's the reason.
Originally Posted by 951and944S
But what about next time....back to ATE non-blue....?
Yep, back to amber.
There's no difference in dry or wet boiling points between ATE Amber and ATE "Super Blue", just a difference in color.
I expect the dye works just as well in Motul as long as it's a DOT 4 (polyethylene glycol) fluid. If it's DOT 5 (silicone) I'd have no idea, but you could contact the manufacturer (PYLAM I mean) and ask. They have a great website and a contact form. They'll even send you samples.
Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 08-03-2017 at 03:31 PM.
Even on my ex full weight 87 944T (power modded) I boiled ATE fluid and melted the valve stem caps off braking 140-50 at NPR just in a DE setting with all the factory 944T brake cooling aids intact.T
You mean bleed valve caps? I've also melted brake pads during DEs when I was driving the car back to back with my son in different run groups at Laguna, but I've never actually boiled fluid. I melted the rubber brake lines though and thoroughly toasted the pads.
Since then I've switched to ceramic pads and SS lines, that's made a big difference, but I'm still using ATE fluid with no problems.
Well the way I look at it that ATE Dyed their fluid for years and still are because it is available in other countries. The AMOUNT of dye that is in it is SO small that they done even list it on the MSDS sheet.
Basically most everything we buy that is Aqueous has dye in it. (Except for milk)... but Rad Fluid, Windshield washer, Even the the stuff we drink.. It just makes life so much easier to open a bleeder, sit back, do something else or drink beer while the caliper drips... after it turns color close and onto the next bleeder. when they have all turned different colors its done! I have never had an issue, and have always had "pedal" when its finished, no need for power bleeders, or assistance.. and have always switched from amber to blue back to amber and so on...
By all means, carry on the way that suits you.
It never dawned on me up until now that I should make all attempts to multi task my pre-race day prep list so I can fit one or two more beers in while I make sure the most important safety item on my cars are track ready....
But if you're tracking the car, the brake fluid gets changed between races. That adds up. Fast. Especially when your power bleeder takes a dump on you over night and blows 2L of fluid all over.
You stay on top of bleeding so much on a race car, it's not necessary to pass a liter or two through the system every time though. I go through less than a liter bleeding twice per weekend.
Either way, $300 tow vehicle fuel, $600 race entry fee, $400 hotel stay, 40 gallons race fuel, a set of brake pads and $1500 race tire wear per two day event.
I aint sweatin' over monitoring a color change of my brake fluid so I don't waste an ounce.
There's no difference in dry or wet boiling points between ATE Amber and ATE "Super Blue", just a difference in color.
Yes, I know.
Originally Posted by Otto Mechanic
I expect the dye works just as well in Motul as long as it's a DOT 4 (polyethylene glycol) fluid. If it's DOT 5 (silicone) I'd have no idea, but you could contact the manufacturer (PYLAM I mean) and ask. They have a great website and a contact form. They'll even send you samples.
I'm wasn't questioning dye in general just the boiling point of the self added dye.
Quality control of the blue added to ATE is going to require that the fluid as a whole, including their dye product meets the stated boiling point.
I was questioning the self added dye.
I am still confused on one point though.
If you have to purchase a double quantity of "amber" to have enough supplies to have amber plus amber to add the dye to, why not just buy blue and amber quantities instead of double amber quantity + cost of dye...?
08-02-2017, 01:46 PM
