When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Zims has the top pad for about $25. And I suppose that retiming the cams shouldn't be much harder than a DOHC Kawasaki, but more expensive if you do it wrong.
I didn't really think about it much and assumed that the chain disapearred dowm towards the crank, not just going around the cams only, it does make sense...DOH...
The Ss are nice cars, but you really have to get the tensioner and belts attended to right away. More than a few people have lost their cars within a week or two of buying them.
Nice Pics....Not to get off topic on this thread here but does anyone know how man 944S cars were produced in '87-'88 and how many were brought to the states?
I've had a few self proclaimed 944 Guru's tell my my car is a sport model since it has the sport suspension, LSD, 16" wheels with wider rims in the back, upgraded sway bars and raised steering hub. I say "self proclaimed Guru's" since I don't necessarily belive them. It does not have sport seats, I would assume any sport package would have them, I may be wrong.
If my car wasn't in storage I would post a pic of the window sticker.
Hope this helps?
Last edited by hacker-pschorr; 11-25-2003 at 03:53 PM.
Just found this - so glad to know I can inspect the pads by pulling the cam cover....and replacing the tensioner pads is not difficult.....wonderful news.........
Next Mon & Tue will be warm & rainy = perfect days for checking cam chain tensioner & pads as shop will be warm enough to work in.
944 can rest for a week just to be super safe.......
But one more question before next week: many say to replace the tensioner itself if car is high mileage. Springs of this type/usage change little. Pads, no question - a wear item. Thinking of sticking with original tensioner unless someone has some good arguments for doing otherwise. Funds are tight as I'm putting bucks into repainting my '76 914 and doing a top-end rebuild on its engine........
Thanks to all for input.
GN
Last edited by Gatornapper; 12-26-2022 at 04:10 PM.
I do not routinely replace the tensioner body unless there is damage. In fact, when budget is a concern, the top pad only can be replaced since the bottom pad is on the drive side of the chain and is essentially straight, it receives much less wear than the top pad.
Be careful with the oil supply tube, replace the crush seals, torque the fasteners correctly and consider using Porsche seals for the cam cover as the aftermarket versions do not seal as well.
My thinking exactly. But I can do both pads - will check for wear before ordering. Check on oil supply tube. Crush washers can usually be re-softened/annealed by boiling them in water then allowing to cool slowly - ever do this? Can I get crush washers from Pelican? Interesting that German guy in video simply re-used the original crush washers - would have thought he would have suggested new. I'm a torque-correct freak, so no problem there. Check on original Porsche seal for cam cover.
Really appreciate all the detail. & wisdom.
GN
Originally Posted by Gage
I do not routinely replace the tensioner body unless there is damage. In fact, when budget is a concern, the top pad only can be replaced since the bottom pad is on the drive side of the chain and is essentially straight, it receives much less wear than the top pad.
Be careful with the oil supply tube, replace the crush seals, torque the fasteners correctly and consider using Porsche seals for the cam cover as the aftermarket versions do not seal as well.
11-24-2003, 12:38 AM
