Torque Tube Removal ( 5 Speed )
#1
Torque Tube Removal ( 5 Speed )
I am in the process of replacing my torque tube bearings with Constantines Super Bearings ( These bearings are truly a work of art ) and I am now at the point of dropping the torque tube.
I have removed the exhaust and clutch and have left the upper bell housing is still in place.
The two bolts for the front shaft clamp are removed.
The one bolt for the rear shaft clamp is removed
The shifter is removed.
The rear shift coupler is removed.
I would like to remove the torque tube without removing the transmission.
I know that I will need to remove the four bolts at the front of the torque tube and then remove the six bolts at the rear of the torque tube.
Can I then remove the two bolts at the transmission mounts and slide the transmission back giving me enough room to carefully slid the transmission out of the rear clamp with out damaging the central shaft in the transmission?
Will the engine move backwards in the engine bay when the torque tube is removed and should I somehow support the engine?
Also, If I do it this way do I only need to remove the two transmission mount bolts or do I need to also remove the half shafts to not put stress on them?
I have removed the exhaust and clutch and have left the upper bell housing is still in place.
The two bolts for the front shaft clamp are removed.
The one bolt for the rear shaft clamp is removed
The shifter is removed.
The rear shift coupler is removed.
I would like to remove the torque tube without removing the transmission.
I know that I will need to remove the four bolts at the front of the torque tube and then remove the six bolts at the rear of the torque tube.
Can I then remove the two bolts at the transmission mounts and slide the transmission back giving me enough room to carefully slid the transmission out of the rear clamp with out damaging the central shaft in the transmission?
Will the engine move backwards in the engine bay when the torque tube is removed and should I somehow support the engine?
Also, If I do it this way do I only need to remove the two transmission mount bolts or do I need to also remove the half shafts to not put stress on them?
#2
I think it can be done without remvoing the trans but it is normally considered safer to pull the trans and TT as one unit as this dramatically reduces the risk of the TT becoming misaligned to the input shaft of the trans and snapping it off.
#3
Greg,
I have spent the past 4 weekend front to back, and I don't think you can do it without dropping the transmission. I know it looks like more tear down but I expect it to be safer for the transmission.
I have spent the past 4 weekend front to back, and I don't think you can do it without dropping the transmission. I know it looks like more tear down but I expect it to be safer for the transmission.
#4
Greg-
With the caveat that I haven't done it myself, I think it can be done. But your order of operations is pretty important here. The issue is that you will only be able to move the transmission back an inch or two, which should be sufficient to be able to pass the front of the TT down past the rear face of the bellhousing. (here's a shot looking up showing how far the front end of the TT shaft protrudes out of the TT, you're probably currently looking at the same view under the car.... )
Your order of operations needs to be a little different- Stan outlined it here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...rque-tube.html
So first you can 'break' each front and rear TT-to-bellhousing/tranny bolt (so you have leverage to work against) and cinch the rears up again so the TT and tranny are a fixed unit. Then remove (completely) the rear pinch bolt and leave its collar in place over the tabs of the input shaft. Then undo the rear shift coupler, then the M12 bolts that hold the tranny to the rear crossmember. Then you can lever the transmission rearward, so the front of the TT pops off the bellhousing locating pins (see above pic) and then tilt the rear of the tranny up with a floor jack (careful, don't tilt the car off your jackstands and kill yourself....) and the TT down. Then it's just a matter of undoing the 6 rear TT bolts and sliding the TT STRAIGHT out of the input shaft.
Assembly is the reverse of diasassembly...
I know Jim Chambers did it this way, there are a couple of threads on his experience though no real details.
I am going to be doing this to the GTS in the next few months to install a Superbearing'ed TT, more notes later.
With the caveat that I haven't done it myself, I think it can be done. But your order of operations is pretty important here. The issue is that you will only be able to move the transmission back an inch or two, which should be sufficient to be able to pass the front of the TT down past the rear face of the bellhousing. (here's a shot looking up showing how far the front end of the TT shaft protrudes out of the TT, you're probably currently looking at the same view under the car.... )
Your order of operations needs to be a little different- Stan outlined it here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...rque-tube.html
So first you can 'break' each front and rear TT-to-bellhousing/tranny bolt (so you have leverage to work against) and cinch the rears up again so the TT and tranny are a fixed unit. Then remove (completely) the rear pinch bolt and leave its collar in place over the tabs of the input shaft. Then undo the rear shift coupler, then the M12 bolts that hold the tranny to the rear crossmember. Then you can lever the transmission rearward, so the front of the TT pops off the bellhousing locating pins (see above pic) and then tilt the rear of the tranny up with a floor jack (careful, don't tilt the car off your jackstands and kill yourself....) and the TT down. Then it's just a matter of undoing the 6 rear TT bolts and sliding the TT STRAIGHT out of the input shaft.
Assembly is the reverse of diasassembly...
I know Jim Chambers did it this way, there are a couple of threads on his experience though no real details.
I am going to be doing this to the GTS in the next few months to install a Superbearing'ed TT, more notes later.
#5
I've done it, it's not that hard. The order of removal in your post is not correct though. Remove the 4 bolts holding the TT to the bellhousing, remove the two big bolts holding the transmission to the rear crossmember, slide the transmission/TT assembly back, then tilt it down so it clears the bellhousing and support the front with a jack (one with wheels makes it easier). Prop the transmission from the rear so it stays tilted. Now remove the 6 bolts holding the TT to the transmission, make sure you are supporting the rear of the TT. Now slide the TT towards the engine making sure it is aligned with the transmission.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#7
I've done it, it's not that hard. The order of removal in your post is not correct though. Remove the 4 bolts holding the TT to the bellhousing, remove the two big bolts holding the transmission to the rear crossmember, slide the transmission/TT assembly back, then tilt it down so it clears the bellhousing and support the front with a jack (one with wheels makes it easier). Prop the transmission from the rear so it stays tilted. Now remove the 6 bolts holding the TT to the transmission, make sure you are supporting the rear of the TT. Now slide the TT towards the engine making sure it is aligned with the transmission.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
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#8
Sorry, I did not take pics when I took mine out to install superbearings. Really, it's pretty straightforward. It may look like it can't come out until you slide the transmission back. Once you see you can tilt the transmission/TT down to clear the bellhousing, it should become clear.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#9
Yup, did this on Matt's 5-speed 88. With automatics, you have to drop the bellhousing (although some/many people just cut the crosspiece on the bellhousing - naughty!). With manuals, that step is not needed due to the much shorter TT shaft.
#10
Jon:
I agree that it is safer to do the torque tube/ trans as one unit but, I am needing to get this done sooner rather than later.
Andre:
I have been following your thread. Good work Brother, there was some hard work goin on there.
Rob:
Perfect! This really helps as I now see how easy this is when done in the right sequence and how easy it is to screw it up if it is not.
Good tip on the safety with jacking up the trans.
Dan:
Yes, if I had gone ahead and did it the way I was thinking it would have been a real pain in the ***, not to mention possibly damaging the input shaft.
Bill:
I did not want to bother you with this as it is still to soon after your transmission repair.
I agree that it is safer to do the torque tube/ trans as one unit but, I am needing to get this done sooner rather than later.
Andre:
I have been following your thread. Good work Brother, there was some hard work goin on there.
Rob:
Perfect! This really helps as I now see how easy this is when done in the right sequence and how easy it is to screw it up if it is not.
Good tip on the safety with jacking up the trans.
Dan:
Yes, if I had gone ahead and did it the way I was thinking it would have been a real pain in the ***, not to mention possibly damaging the input shaft.
Bill:
I did not want to bother you with this as it is still to soon after your transmission repair.
#11
I am in middle of the TT bearings replacement. TT is now removed. This is how I proceeded (in fact, it was easier than expected )
Remove shifter ****, boot, etc.
Remove exhaust.
Uncouple coupling on TT at both ends.
Remove securing hardware from front of TT.
Loosen securing hardware on rear of TT.
Loosen the two big bolts holding the transmission to the rear crossmember.
Unhook the rear coupling.
Remove the four bolts at the front of the torque tube.
Remove the six bolts at the rear of the torque tube.
Place a cushinoned jack under the front of the engine and put pressure on it to make contact. TT should slide down in front and hang a bit.
Remove rear hardware and prepare for a TT on your lap. You may have to apply some M.A.N. to the end of the TT or perhaps use a little leverage on the jack to position the engine just so.
Took me about 2-3 hours ...
Remove shifter ****, boot, etc.
Remove exhaust.
Uncouple coupling on TT at both ends.
Remove securing hardware from front of TT.
Loosen securing hardware on rear of TT.
Loosen the two big bolts holding the transmission to the rear crossmember.
Unhook the rear coupling.
Remove the four bolts at the front of the torque tube.
Remove the six bolts at the rear of the torque tube.
Place a cushinoned jack under the front of the engine and put pressure on it to make contact. TT should slide down in front and hang a bit.
Remove rear hardware and prepare for a TT on your lap. You may have to apply some M.A.N. to the end of the TT or perhaps use a little leverage on the jack to position the engine just so.
Took me about 2-3 hours ...
#12
Greg: If you are still at it next week, I can help. Two sets of hands really help, although with a 5-speed, this is not too hard. Just hope your bearing carriers fall out easily.
#13
Bill:
Thank you for the offer!
With Rob's detailed instructions and Dan's run through I am feeling confident with this.
If the carriers become a problem I may take you up on your offer.
Thank you for the offer!
With Rob's detailed instructions and Dan's run through I am feeling confident with this.
If the carriers become a problem I may take you up on your offer.
#15
Andre:
I am shooting for tomorrow. If you are serious I can do it anytime this week that works for you but I really need to get this done soon.
Oh, and I have plenty of lawn chairs. I could even get the hammock out of winter storage.
I am shooting for tomorrow. If you are serious I can do it anytime this week that works for you but I really need to get this done soon.
Oh, and I have plenty of lawn chairs. I could even get the hammock out of winter storage.