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I had my 914 at a local track day, after about 20 mins of very hard driving smoke could be seen and pre ignition could be heard. I bought a oil temp gauge. The engine runs hot at extended periods of high rpms (4000=200F+)
I added an oil cooler by the cv joint, not much help. Is this common? 2.0 ,96mm pistons, d- jet ,web cam, kerry hunter exh.
I added an oil cooler by the cv joint, not much help. Is this common? 2.0 ,96mm pistons, d- jet ,web cam, kerry hunter exh.
#2
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Lean lean lean, Next gauge to get is Fuek/air ratio meter. Do you have a cylinder head temp gauge? Most people woudn't get to excited till 375 or so on the head temp. 200 Oil temp for a quality synthetic is within acceptable limits. I have heard that D-jet has it's limits. Bigger pistons cam (what web cam) and header make the engine a better air pump thus you need to supply more fuel. More fuel = cooler head temp and MORE POWER.
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check to see that your oil cooler is getting hot... unless the oil filter by-pass plug on the oil filter mount is plugged, the ball tends to open up when the increased pressure of an oil cooler is added to the oil system
This little tid bit of information took us forever to figure out with the race car pictured in my avatar.
Also put a deep sump on that puppy if you don't already have one.
Sean
This little tid bit of information took us forever to figure out with the race car pictured in my avatar.
Also put a deep sump on that puppy if you don't already have one.
Sean
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Thanks for everyones help. I welded the bypass on the engine oil filter shut when I did the rebuild but did'nt on the sandwich adaptor and the cooler is getting hot. There is a dyno not too far from home I guess I'll put it up there for a ride and check the fuel pressure, temp sensor,and adjust manifold pressure sensor I think running lean may be a good answer. I like the FIand it runs great but would carbs be that much better?
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VERY interested in the results of your Dyno. If you get your FI to run cool then I wil have hope for my 70 with a 1.7l . I haven't recieved the car yet but my buddy said it is a rocket. HMM He has never driven anything but a F250 4X4.
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I finally went to the dyno, yep I was lean. We adjusted the pressure sensor all the way out (rich) no help. we ened up turning the fuel pressure up to 38 psi. I am using 1.7 injectors and am now looking for some bigger ones to get the fuel pressure down. enclosed is the dyno charts.
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200 is actually very cool for a Type4 engine in track conditions (at least in warm weather)! Most of them will "try" to run up to 250-300 oil temps unless that tendancy is countered by an effective oil cooler setup. Most guys seem to have found that front mounted coolers are the only really effective choice; the trunk floor or engine lid setups are compromises that work OK for some, and obviously have the advantage of not having to cut-up your car.
My current car has a huge front-mounted cooler and is difficult to get past 180-200 now, even in the most extreme conditions. I keep it taped-off unless full airflow is desired.
My current car has a huge front-mounted cooler and is difficult to get past 180-200 now, even in the most extreme conditions. I keep it taped-off unless full airflow is desired.
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My first concern was to to make sure that the fuel mixture was correct.Now that I know where I am in that respect I can start trying to work on other things to help the cooling. I have not tried it on the track yet but last year I couldn't make too many hard laps before I was pushing 250* The yellow 1.7 injectors are supposed to be 265 cc/min. Does anyone know what the green ones are rated for? What injectors are you using? Do you do anything to help the air part of the cooling?
Thanks, Joe.
Thanks, Joe.
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305cc IIRC for the 2.0l injectors
To adjust the WOT mix you have to back off the machined plug. Is that what you did?
How did you adjust the MPS?
Unplugged the temp sensor richens the mix alittle.
Running a 1.7l injection setup on a 2056 is going to be lean until you tune it right. The dyno runs indicate that.
Partload mix should be 13.7to1
WOT mix should be 12.5to1
200 degree temps running at the track without a front mount oil cooler are good.
Geoff
To adjust the WOT mix you have to back off the machined plug. Is that what you did?
How did you adjust the MPS?
Unplugged the temp sensor richens the mix alittle.
Running a 1.7l injection setup on a 2056 is going to be lean until you tune it right. The dyno runs indicate that.
Partload mix should be 13.7to1
WOT mix should be 12.5to1
200 degree temps running at the track without a front mount oil cooler are good.
Geoff
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Yes, I melted the epoxy out to free up the plug and drilled a hole thru the center to get a small screw driver to the idle mix screw. The plug ended up all the way out and that was not enough. According to the numbers I found the yellow injectors are supposed to be good for 50 hp ea. apparantly it must be wrong. I have a set of green ones I'll try on the dyno later. All in all it runs great like it is but I do need to get the fuel pressure down.
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When you are done adjusting the A/F mix inside the MPS you must install the plug and set the WOT with it. It should also be just be touching the diaphram to support it. Otherwise, the diaphram will blow out in short order.
Geoff
Geoff
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I had my car back on the track last weekend and it still runs hot. I let it cool down when the temp approaches 220. It will easily go to 250 if I let it. The richer mixture seemed to help some but for track days it still runs too hot.
What size lines and what size cooler is the best trick for these cars?
What size lines and what size cooler is the best trick for these cars?