rwiii

Am a 996 owner considering a 914 but would really like the Fuches. Can someone give me a brief description and cost with labor to get into a basic setup? In other words, if it weren't important to do the job with new brakes, tires that would require bigger fenders etc. Just get some cooler looking wheels. Thanks.

Matt Romanowski

In the front you need to put in 911 struts, hubs, and brakes. For the rear it's just redrilling your hubs and pressing in studs and changing the wheel bearing (you have to change it when you pull the hub). Rear is around $250 and front totally depends on what you pay for the hubs and stuff.

I think I saw that PMB Performance was redrilling a bunch of 914-4 front rotors so you could do 5 lug. Going that route would be under $500 not including the rims.

rwiii

So Matt, less the cost of the wheels what would the total cost with labor be?

rwiii

Are you saying $500 total?

Matt Romanowski

Wheel bearings are $50 each, front rotors are around $50 each, and hubs should be $250ish. I forgot you will need new rear rotors at around $50. Maybe do front wheel bearings and you're around $600 in parts. Probably take around 4-5 hours to do the work. Provided you can get the drilled rotors from PMB (they have photos on their web page). A little more time and an alignment in you buy a 911 front end to put in.

skl

Putting a doaner front from a 70 or 71 T gets you bigger brakes in front which is nice, but you'll probably want to get Eric's rebuilt calipers as they look so nice, so just add up the $$

Here are the fronts as they came from Eric, and the rears installed on OEM rear 914-6 trailing arms and hubs.

rwiii

I know nothing about mechanic math but if I read you right you're guessing $600 in parts and five hours of labor. Right?

rwiii

for all four

Matt Romanowski

Correct.

porsche930dude

I did mine on the cheap. Found redrilled rear hubs with new *** bearings for $100. on the samba. Didnt even need the new bearings because they came apart easy enough. and got adapters for the front for $60. but they can be had through vw magazines for about the same price. i may be mistaken but I think the front can be redrilled and studded. I redrilled my own rear drums. nothing scientific there. just traced the pattern from the adapters.

cairo94507

Do it right or do not do it. Talk to Erik at PMB and let him explain the benefits of doing it correctly.

Maltese Falcon

Get the pros + cons on re-drilled hubs from Eric at pmb. When I first started as you are, I used the re-drilled/ re-stud technique. When I started club racing, the car would not pass tech inspection, GCR's, due to the weakening of the hubs . I finally removed the re-drilled units and went 911s up front and 914-6 rear.
Marty

Matt Romanowski

Fronts or rears? I'm not sure how anyone would see the rears while they are on the car. Fronts wouldn't make sense (to me) either for them to give you a hard time.

I'm pretty sure the OP was talking about a street car. No idea what his plans are for later though.

rwiii

Yes that's right Matt. I see "do it right or do not do it" all the time on these pages and that is not me. I'm an ROI guy. I can't tell you how much cash I save with "good enough". I'm looking at a cheap new canvass top for my 911 that is less than half the cost of a GAAH. If the GAAH lasts 15 years and the cheap top (that I don't raise often--don't drive in the rain) lasts ten years then I'm WAY ahead of the game. That's how I roll. Sorry to all you perfectionists out there. I found an awesome little write-up on Pelican today for the conversion using the re-drill method mentioned above. That looks really good to me.

Maltese Falcon

If you need to cut your expenses further, there are knock-off look alike faux Fuchs available through the Performance Products folks. These are not forged (like Fuchs), rather manufactured by a cheaper casting process. But you are not planning any DE courses, so you should be ok. Just avoid any road divots, potholes as cast wheels are unforgiving .
Marty