New in this forum
09-01-2007, 07:58 PM
#1
Track Day
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New in this forum
Hi
I am new to the 914 forum and I would like to start with a question first (of course) ha ha.
Anyway,I was at Goodguys car show today,and I saw a 914 for sale. It had a brand new 2.7 (type 4) engine, 901 tranny,flared fiberglass fenders.The owner said that the car has at least 150hp,no rust,but the car needs paint (for my taste). He is asking 5500 but he might take a bit less but not much. At the end he said that the engine costs more than what he is asking for the whole car. Good deal or not?
I am new to the 914 forum and I would like to start with a question first (of course) ha ha.
Anyway,I was at Goodguys car show today,and I saw a 914 for sale. It had a brand new 2.7 (type 4) engine, 901 tranny,flared fiberglass fenders.The owner said that the car has at least 150hp,no rust,but the car needs paint (for my taste). He is asking 5500 but he might take a bit less but not much. At the end he said that the engine costs more than what he is asking for the whole car. Good deal or not?
09-02-2007, 04:59 PM
#2
Track Day
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Middle Jawja, USA
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It could be a great deal as long as the engine is built right and it's not a rust bucket. I would look closely for rust, it's the biggest killer of 914s. The most common areas are under the battery tray and the longitudinals under the jacking points. The longs are impossible to fully check without removing the rocker panels but a preliminary check of the area may turn something up. Be very wary of either area if it's covered with undercoating. Rust in either place is cost prohibitive for any car I want to own. Also, ask about the fuel system. If he's still running D or L Jetronic then I'd walk away.
09-03-2007, 01:14 PM
#3
Instructor
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Welcome to Rennlist, Larisa! Most of us are a bunch of grouchy old farts, but we have about a zillion years of experience between us, so that works to your advantage, IF you can put up with the BS!
Back to your question... 914Jeff is right on, as far as he went... rust is everything... easy test? Open both doors, take the roof off, and then STAND on the rear drivers door sill, and bounce up and down a little... if the car bends, there is too much rust to fix! of course, this test works better when I do it weighing 300 lbs, but even if you are in the 125 lb range, it will give you an idea of the condition. Shut the door after words and see if it closes easily... if any rubbing or hitting, the body is rusted and too far gone.
Now on to the motor... well, there IS NO 2.7 Liter Type IV motor, so... did the owner replace it with a 2.7 liter 6 cylinder? If he is claiming only 150 hp, prolly not, so you need to determine exactly what sort of motor he has stuffed in there, but I can guarantee you it is not factory, and that raises a lot of questions. Most replaced motors are of a very suspect nature, meaning they will blow up when least expected and leave you without a car in the darndest places! The largest Type IV that is reasonable to build is a 2056 CC engine, and these are truly time bombs waiting to grenade on you if not done by someone like Jake Raby, and those motors are in the $10 to $15K price range, so you are not going to find one in a $5,500 914... sooo... motor issue does not look good for this car....
Then we get to the fiberglass fenders... these are fine if you just want a POS to run in autocross or DE events, but if you are not liking the paint now, then you definitely don't want to have FG fenders... they will only cause you grief, and they crack and wiggle their way down the road.
Best bet... drop this one like a hot potato, and look for a decent 73 thru 76 2.0, WITH the factory D Jetronic Fuel Injection (yes, it is STILL the best system for these cars!!!), that has been serviced regularly and driven moderately for the past 30+ years. It will prolly have a decent rebuilt stock motor, a newer clutch, possible a rebuilt gearbox, and all of the little rust issues addressed along the way. And it will cost you $8,500.00 plus tax and title... If they want more then they don't really want to sell the car. If they ask less, then they have a POS and you don't want it either!
So there you go! Yes, these cars are fun and they are also OLD (like me) so the need a lot of TLC to keep them going... prepare yourself!
Back to your question... 914Jeff is right on, as far as he went... rust is everything... easy test? Open both doors, take the roof off, and then STAND on the rear drivers door sill, and bounce up and down a little... if the car bends, there is too much rust to fix! of course, this test works better when I do it weighing 300 lbs, but even if you are in the 125 lb range, it will give you an idea of the condition. Shut the door after words and see if it closes easily... if any rubbing or hitting, the body is rusted and too far gone.
Now on to the motor... well, there IS NO 2.7 Liter Type IV motor, so... did the owner replace it with a 2.7 liter 6 cylinder? If he is claiming only 150 hp, prolly not, so you need to determine exactly what sort of motor he has stuffed in there, but I can guarantee you it is not factory, and that raises a lot of questions. Most replaced motors are of a very suspect nature, meaning they will blow up when least expected and leave you without a car in the darndest places! The largest Type IV that is reasonable to build is a 2056 CC engine, and these are truly time bombs waiting to grenade on you if not done by someone like Jake Raby, and those motors are in the $10 to $15K price range, so you are not going to find one in a $5,500 914... sooo... motor issue does not look good for this car....
Then we get to the fiberglass fenders... these are fine if you just want a POS to run in autocross or DE events, but if you are not liking the paint now, then you definitely don't want to have FG fenders... they will only cause you grief, and they crack and wiggle their way down the road.
Best bet... drop this one like a hot potato, and look for a decent 73 thru 76 2.0, WITH the factory D Jetronic Fuel Injection (yes, it is STILL the best system for these cars!!!), that has been serviced regularly and driven moderately for the past 30+ years. It will prolly have a decent rebuilt stock motor, a newer clutch, possible a rebuilt gearbox, and all of the little rust issues addressed along the way. And it will cost you $8,500.00 plus tax and title... If they want more then they don't really want to sell the car. If they ask less, then they have a POS and you don't want it either!
So there you go! Yes, these cars are fun and they are also OLD (like me) so the need a lot of TLC to keep them going... prepare yourself!
09-03-2007, 03:54 PM
#4
Track Day
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks to both of you for the replies. I was told that the engine was build by a reputable shop here in town but I do not have more details. If I get serious about it I will have to see the paperwork that comes with the car. I want to use the car as weekend fun toy and once in a while do autocross and Porsche DE. I will let you know if I find out more.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
09-03-2007, 09:20 PM
#6
Track Day
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Middle Jawja, USA
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Raby claims to have developed a 3 liter, but not for public use. I'm not sure I'd trust a 2.7 to hold together unless it was built and blessed by him. I'd do a 2056 myself though.
09-03-2007, 09:50 PM
#7
seems once you get over about 2.4 liters as a type 4, well, reliabilty can be questionable. I am not saying one of Jake's $15K motors isn't reliable, but that much motor tends not to last long.. A nice 2056 or 2270 though can put out nice hp (120-140) relatively reliably. My 2056 lasted some 5 years of heavy DE and AX use before it needed a refreshening.
