Sasquatch

1.8 vs. 2.0 swap, major questions

We have a pristine looking and running 74 with the 1.8. Runs fantastic, all stock, original, 103k miles. Heck, this thing does not use or even leak oil. The wife is begging me for more power in it (it is 'her' car, but I get to maintain it).

I was just given a complete 2.0 out of a 75. It is in pieces for a rebuild. Heads have been completely rebuilt. It ran, but smoked before pulling (a good friends car).

Ok, he has given me everything, from oil drian plug to the injection system, all computers, wiring harness, etc.

The delema:

Do I rebuild the 2.0, maybe add some over sized P&Cs, cam etc, and install that with the D-jet system. Then sell the perfect running complete 1.8.

-or-

Do I tear down the 1.8, install the 2.0 crank and rods, get some 2.0 or 2.0 big bore P&Cs, bore the case and heads, and build it up using the L-jet system I have?

-or-

Some other combination of the two...

Build considerations...

I do NOT want to convert to carbs. I am sick and tired of screwing with them for years. I like the simplicity of a good running injection system.

The motor must retain "stock" appearance.

I will sit back and await your collective suggestions.

Matt Romanowski

If you want to use the stock fuel injection, you don't have many options. Either system is not overly taking to performance mods. I'm not an expert on them, but you can find plenty of info over at www.shoptalkforums.com or www.914club.com. You can put a mild cam in it, but thats about it.

I would keep the 1.8 stock and together, so if you ever wanted to put the car back to the way it was delivered, you can. Modify the 2 liter. If it was me, I would put Euro P+C's, moderate cam, weber 44 IDFs, and have some fun. I built a motor like that and loved it for over two years (until a cam came apart at about 6k rpm!).

Matt

Jay Gratton

I agree with Matt. Matt and I also built the same motor he talked about for my '73 914 and it has given me 20K miles of wonderful street, track and AX driving. It is a nice engine for all around use.

skl

I have a modded 1.7 now at 2.0 with head work, cam, etc and Webers and it runs great and doesn't require a lot of tinkering, but I guess that doesn't answer your question if you don't want carbs. I prefer the look with carbs, but yes it definitely isn't original...

Rotten Robby

I just finished reading every word in Up-Fixen on the 914. Quite interesting when you consider that some of what is available now like Megasquirt and the other more expensive proprietary aftermarket efi was not available when these questions and responses were written.

The consensus when all of these questions and answers from Panorama were written was that the most you could do to the 2.0 motor without driveability problems and eventual grenade event was the Euro P/C, a slight cam change and they do specify one, and 40ida Webers. This will according to the various questions and answers, get you a fairly entertaining and reliable 130HP. Above that, you exceed the design characteristics of the case.

If I do a rebuild on my 2.0 I am thinking the Euro P/C, Hoffman 2.0 heads, cam change, and either megasquirt or Webers.

I would simply take the advice of the experts who wrote the responses in Panorama but I have seen Dave Hunts car run and even with the problems that Dave has had he was able to sort it out with the Megasquirt program. What I mean by this is that even though I don't think Dave has the engine where he wants it, it runs and is very driveable. He has a combo of EFI parts which include DJet and other engine controls and uses a crank fired ignition.

It sounds like you have a very nice car so I would not spoil that by doing an engine that doesn't run as well as the one she has.

Geoff

With rebuilding the 2.0L to a 2.1L, cam and lifter change to a 9550 Raby cam, Hoffman rework of the heads, 96mm pistons you will be in the 115-120hp range with Djet. You will have to tune the MPS but its pretty easy with a O2 sensor Meter system (LM1).
This still retains the stock look and feel with the Djet but is a fast torquey motor that your wife will love. Startsup great do to the FI and you just take off.
If you want more adjustablity then switch to MS so you can use a laptop to adjust the FI on the fly.
Geoff

Sasquatch

Reading the responses both here and on that "other" list, I think I will fully prep my 1.8 for long term storage. Pull everything out and store it in case I ever need to go back to stock.

Then take the 2.0 and build a pretty good screamer out of it. Something in the 2.1-2.3l range. Raby will get a bunch of my business sourcing parts.

Would 40 idf's be ok or should I just go ahead and buy 44's?

Vjgtrybno1

This doesn't do much, but I added a burscht exhaust that increased hp 10% on my 1.8. If you have one that runs like a top, I wouldn't screw with it too much! But I am not a great wrencher.

Matt Romanowski

A 2270 is a cool motor. I built mine without buying anyones "special" parts - I made my own.

As far as carbs, I feel that most people are running too small. I have 48 IDF's. I would buy at least 44s, but don't buy them until you have a whole motor plan.

Matt

Sasquatch

Could you send me your recipe for what your motor plan is? And, if you had to do it all over again, what would you change.

The problem with going too big on carbs is that you loose intake velocity. Ran into this alot when customers would throw big flat slides on their sportbikes and then bring them to me when they couldnt get them to run right.

Geoff

Jake's kit motors are a great way to go as the parts are selected for a dyno proven combo. Just using parts from here and there always results in a less efficent motor with sometimes disaster around the corner. Jake has done the research to prove his combo's hp and longitivity.

Jay Gratton

I would send Matt a PM if you want him to get back to you ASAP! Thanks - Jay

PORobinSCHE

how big can a 1.7 L be built for a reliable street motor?

Robin

Geoff

Using the 66mm crank and rods you can go to a 1911cc motor using 96mm pistons. The 1.7l heads need to be opened up to make it work but I don't like the small valves on bigger motor. Atleast use a set of 1.8l heads with 41x34's and a new cam.
You can use the 1.7L case and even built a 2270cc if you want (78x96) but you need a new crank and rods plus bigger induction.