Accu-sump install
#1
Accu-sump install
Well it's official, I'm losing oil pressure in sustained corners like Big Bend @ LRP and even auto-cross events with 'skid pad' features. Running a higher level doesn't help and the car is too low for a deep sump soooooooo the Accu-sump is going in this week.
I’m going to install an 2 qt Accu-sump with electric valve. I was thinking I could simply use a full flow pump cover and plumb it right into there (vs removing drilling and tapping the timing cover as in a full flow return). What do you think? I don’t see why it wouldn’t work…..
I’m running a spin on HP-1 and 2 oil coolers already, I tapped into the top of the case in place of the original on engine cooler, I could also tee into the oil cooler return line but that would involve lots of fittings and would make engine removal more difficult.
Thoughts?? experiences??
Brgds, Peter
I’m going to install an 2 qt Accu-sump with electric valve. I was thinking I could simply use a full flow pump cover and plumb it right into there (vs removing drilling and tapping the timing cover as in a full flow return). What do you think? I don’t see why it wouldn’t work…..
I’m running a spin on HP-1 and 2 oil coolers already, I tapped into the top of the case in place of the original on engine cooler, I could also tee into the oil cooler return line but that would involve lots of fittings and would make engine removal more difficult.
Thoughts?? experiences??
Brgds, Peter
#2
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From: Manchester, NH
I have an accusump in my 914. I went into the return line on the oil cooler (that goes into a sandwich plate). Not too many fittings. There is a tee and an end on each hose. Works very well.
#4
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From: Merrimack, NH
Matt also forgot to say that he has a cool NOS sticker on his accusump that people are always wondering about. It either makes people laugh or they think it is real. Classic I tell you!
#7
Here's the latest progress report. It's mounted, now I just need to wire the valve and put the end on the ss line and we should be good to go!!
Jay are you going to make it down for the Zone 1?? It's about 5 minutes from my house Personally, I can't wait.
Jay are you going to make it down for the Zone 1?? It's about 5 minutes from my house Personally, I can't wait.
Last edited by butzip; 09-02-2008 at 11:18 PM.
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#8
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From: Manchester, NH
Also, something to consider when it's all hooked up. It takes volume at pressure - i.e. it has more oil in it when you have 50 pounds of pressure than when you have 15 pounds. You need to make sure you check you oil when it has sufficient oil in it so you can see what is actually in the sump.
What this ends up meaning is that you will be slightly overfilled at idle and slightly low when at 3000 + rpms.
Looking good!
#9
Hey Matt, wanting to pick your brain here.......
So, OK, I did as I said initially. I plumbed it directly into the full flow oil pump cover. The result.....?
120PSI!! at idle WTF?!?!? I'm going to replace the original oil pump cover and relocate the input of the accu-sump (with a tee and check valve). Yes, the way I probably should have done it originally As it is now, I'm blowing oil out of the safety valve. The safety valve is rated @ 175 Psi and it's popping. Now it should be said that my electronic VDO oil pressure gauge is reading normal 40 - 60 psi the whole time I'm guessing I'm on the wrong side of the pressure relief spring and that is the root cause. We'll see tonight when I re-route things.
As always, feedback is always welcomed.
So, OK, I did as I said initially. I plumbed it directly into the full flow oil pump cover. The result.....?
120PSI!! at idle WTF?!?!? I'm going to replace the original oil pump cover and relocate the input of the accu-sump (with a tee and check valve). Yes, the way I probably should have done it originally As it is now, I'm blowing oil out of the safety valve. The safety valve is rated @ 175 Psi and it's popping. Now it should be said that my electronic VDO oil pressure gauge is reading normal 40 - 60 psi the whole time I'm guessing I'm on the wrong side of the pressure relief spring and that is the root cause. We'll see tonight when I re-route things.
As always, feedback is always welcomed.
#10
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From: Manchester, NH
Yeah, I guess I didn't really think about what you were doing before, but the outlet on the pump is a outlet leading to a dead end (the Accusump). Makes sense that it's got a ton of pressure. You would have to return the excess pressure somewhere for that to work.
Probalby easiest to do it with a tee in line with the cooler. Then it's part of a loop.
Probalby easiest to do it with a tee in line with the cooler. Then it's part of a loop.
#12
All systems go!! It's tempoary, so it's not pretty, but it works. I tapped into the oil line out of the second cooler, through a check valve, into a tee to the accumulator, then into the engine. Works like a charm. No more leakage, it spikes at about 80psi (indicated) but no where near where it was.
Anybody need a Shasta full flow pump cover with an-8 male fitting installed?? E-bay here I come :-)
The good news, it looks like I'll make it to the Zone 1 auto-x after all. I just need to adjust the preload on the sway bars. Hope to see ya'll there.
Anybody need a Shasta full flow pump cover with an-8 male fitting installed?? E-bay here I come :-)
The good news, it looks like I'll make it to the Zone 1 auto-x after all. I just need to adjust the preload on the sway bars. Hope to see ya'll there.
#13
I have a 912 with a big bore kit and HCP stup puller cam. Four IDF 40 Webers. This is all installed in a 1975 VW convertable. Problem 1. Car over heats 2. Car feels sluggish, not much power. 3. Oil pressure at idle is about 0-5 psi. Garth
#14
Garth,
Clearly the oil pressure is a concern. If your gauge is accurate, there is a serious problem. I can run 90degree day @ the track @ 6000rpm with no major overheating issues. My oil pressure does not drop below 20 psi under any conditions. You need to check your oil pump gears right away, then check your on-engine cooler/cylinders for air flow blockage, then your belt for slippage, then your fan for damaged or missing blades. As for the sluggishness, check you carb mixture you maybe too rich. Base line them, turn them all the way in, then out 1.5 turns. All the conditions you mentioned are abnormal indeed.
Where are you located?
Clearly the oil pressure is a concern. If your gauge is accurate, there is a serious problem. I can run 90degree day @ the track @ 6000rpm with no major overheating issues. My oil pressure does not drop below 20 psi under any conditions. You need to check your oil pump gears right away, then check your on-engine cooler/cylinders for air flow blockage, then your belt for slippage, then your fan for damaged or missing blades. As for the sluggishness, check you carb mixture you maybe too rich. Base line them, turn them all the way in, then out 1.5 turns. All the conditions you mentioned are abnormal indeed.
Where are you located?