Fuel in Oil
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I did my first oil analysis, and everything came back fine, with the exception of the 'FUEL % VOL' was 10.
The note says that 'Fuel Dilution was high. There's few things that might cause this situation - defective injectors allowing excess fuel, incorrect fuel injection settings causing a too rich situation.'
I am running at around 3% CO, and have the Euro fuel system and injectors on my car. Is this a problem, or is this normal, given the way I have the car set up?
The note says that 'Fuel Dilution was high. There's few things that might cause this situation - defective injectors allowing excess fuel, incorrect fuel injection settings causing a too rich situation.'
I am running at around 3% CO, and have the Euro fuel system and injectors on my car. Is this a problem, or is this normal, given the way I have the car set up?
#2
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Hi Jim:
I might ask how long that oil was in the car? How many miles do you do between oil changes?
If there is a Dynoject 248c in your area that has an A/F meter, a few dyno runs will show your A/F ratio under boost and that will help determine how rich it runs when its critical.
Fuel dilution is caused by some leaking injectors or an overly rich mixture and a dyno run or two will help determine which one......
A shop or Dealer with the Bosch Injector Test fixture can tell you which ones are leaking and what their spray patterns are. If they are dirty, sometimes its possible to clean them, but if they are leaking, replacement is the only cure.
I might ask how long that oil was in the car? How many miles do you do between oil changes?
If there is a Dynoject 248c in your area that has an A/F meter, a few dyno runs will show your A/F ratio under boost and that will help determine how rich it runs when its critical.
Fuel dilution is caused by some leaking injectors or an overly rich mixture and a dyno run or two will help determine which one......
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A shop or Dealer with the Bosch Injector Test fixture can tell you which ones are leaking and what their spray patterns are. If they are dirty, sometimes its possible to clean them, but if they are leaking, replacement is the only cure.
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Steve,
I thought I posted a response to this, but it must have gotten lost in the board change or something.
The oil was in the car for about 1000 miles, and the car has about 3000 miles on a rebuild. There is a Dynojet in the area, and I was going to have it checked, but I was rejected due to some cracks in my b&B headders, which I expect back any day, repaired under warranty.
What A/F ration is ideal, and at what point is is getting marginal. Also, I am assuming that third gear is what I am suppose to use for dyno runs, since they say they want it as close to 1:1 as possible. Is this correct, or should I use second?
I thought I posted a response to this, but it must have gotten lost in the board change or something.
The oil was in the car for about 1000 miles, and the car has about 3000 miles on a rebuild. There is a Dynojet in the area, and I was going to have it checked, but I was rejected due to some cracks in my b&B headders, which I expect back any day, repaired under warranty.
What A/F ration is ideal, and at what point is is getting marginal. Also, I am assuming that third gear is what I am suppose to use for dyno runs, since they say they want it as close to 1:1 as possible. Is this correct, or should I use second?
#4
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Hi Jim:
I like to see an A/F around 12.2:1 under boost, ot be safe. Anything richer is too much fuel, and anything leaner leads to destroyed pistons.
Do your dyno runs in 3rd gear at WOT.
I like to see an A/F around 12.2:1 under boost, ot be safe. Anything richer is too much fuel, and anything leaner leads to destroyed pistons.
Do your dyno runs in 3rd gear at WOT.