Bearing issue
02-18-2002, 10:33 PM
#1
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Bearing issue
I just bought a 79 930 and drove it home 2 weeks ago when the weather was nice and sunny. This car is incredible...however...
About 50 miles from home started to get the dreadful noise from the back that a bearing or CV was going. Slowed way down (50-55 vs. 65-75). Pulled off to check things out (give the tire a good shake...nothing...)
About 10 miles or so down the road when pulling off to have a friend come out and meet me to follow me home just in case....it felt like the back right wheel stopped turning or slowed way down for a fraction of a second and pulled the car to the right slightly. Then all I had was a constant rubbing like sound.
I have pulled the CV axle and looked at all of that and it looks good. So I am assuming it is the bloody bearings in the hub. My quesion is...was the wheel ****** I felt probably the bearing turning in the hub (ouch)? If so, is this going to require a new trailing arm/hub assmby? Or will this be okay to just look at and if not scored or scared to clean out and reinstall?
I have been looking on this board for awhile now and following articles on just about everything and this board and Rennlist is by far the most valuable resource there is. Thanks to everyone.
Regards,
Brian
<img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
About 50 miles from home started to get the dreadful noise from the back that a bearing or CV was going. Slowed way down (50-55 vs. 65-75). Pulled off to check things out (give the tire a good shake...nothing...)
About 10 miles or so down the road when pulling off to have a friend come out and meet me to follow me home just in case....it felt like the back right wheel stopped turning or slowed way down for a fraction of a second and pulled the car to the right slightly. Then all I had was a constant rubbing like sound.
I have pulled the CV axle and looked at all of that and it looks good. So I am assuming it is the bloody bearings in the hub. My quesion is...was the wheel ****** I felt probably the bearing turning in the hub (ouch)? If so, is this going to require a new trailing arm/hub assmby? Or will this be okay to just look at and if not scored or scared to clean out and reinstall?
I have been looking on this board for awhile now and following articles on just about everything and this board and Rennlist is by far the most valuable resource there is. Thanks to everyone.
Regards,
Brian
<img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
02-19-2002, 12:04 AM
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Brian,
Just went through the exact scenario with my '79 930. It has barely 32K on the odometer (documented original miles). I was really spooked by all the racket (shaking the wheel doesn't give you nothing either). I isolated it by placing the car on jack stands and running it in place with the wheels off.
I took the entire hub assembly (brakes, rotors, calipers). The hub itself stays connected to the trailing arm. You'll need a 30mm socket to remove the bolt holding the spline (cv joint), plus remove the cv joint from the tranni to the get to the inner wheel bearing/race. Don't try to remove the trailing arm (too much work and not necessary). There are two wheel bearings per side (inner and outer), plus two races of course and don't forget the gaskets. The trick is "pressing" the replacement bearings so that they set evenly (if not, you'll have to remove/destroy while removing and start all over again). To do this, I rigged up the my own version of manual press. The hub has to stay in place during the whole operation or else you'll be in for a whole lot more (don't remove the trailing arm).
It cost me a whole lot of time and about $100 in bearings (screwed up two, finally got it right with third). My local mechanic would have charged me $250 plus to do the job. $500 plus for both right and left rear wheel bearing.
If you have not done this before, then go the Porsche specialist way and pay to have it done. It is relatively simple but you need the right tools).
Hindsight being 20/20, I would have paid to have it done and avoided all the anxiety.
BTW, the right rear is always one of the first to go with US cars since our roadways are pretty chewed up on the right shoulder area from the big trucks, etc. (left hand traffic flow).
And don't drive it anymore. Have it flatbedded to the mechanic if you go that route.
All the best, <img src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" border="0" alt="[blabla]" />
Just went through the exact scenario with my '79 930. It has barely 32K on the odometer (documented original miles). I was really spooked by all the racket (shaking the wheel doesn't give you nothing either). I isolated it by placing the car on jack stands and running it in place with the wheels off.
I took the entire hub assembly (brakes, rotors, calipers). The hub itself stays connected to the trailing arm. You'll need a 30mm socket to remove the bolt holding the spline (cv joint), plus remove the cv joint from the tranni to the get to the inner wheel bearing/race. Don't try to remove the trailing arm (too much work and not necessary). There are two wheel bearings per side (inner and outer), plus two races of course and don't forget the gaskets. The trick is "pressing" the replacement bearings so that they set evenly (if not, you'll have to remove/destroy while removing and start all over again). To do this, I rigged up the my own version of manual press. The hub has to stay in place during the whole operation or else you'll be in for a whole lot more (don't remove the trailing arm).
It cost me a whole lot of time and about $100 in bearings (screwed up two, finally got it right with third). My local mechanic would have charged me $250 plus to do the job. $500 plus for both right and left rear wheel bearing.
If you have not done this before, then go the Porsche specialist way and pay to have it done. It is relatively simple but you need the right tools).
Hindsight being 20/20, I would have paid to have it done and avoided all the anxiety.
BTW, the right rear is always one of the first to go with US cars since our roadways are pretty chewed up on the right shoulder area from the big trucks, etc. (left hand traffic flow).
And don't drive it anymore. Have it flatbedded to the mechanic if you go that route.
All the best, <img src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" border="0" alt="[blabla]" />
02-19-2002, 12:19 AM
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I have been trying to get the car to a local mechanic in the Cleveland area, but can't do so until APRIL due to their schedule. I am going to call some dealers in the area next but I think the job is going to be around $800 or so there.
This is why I was going to take off the trailing arm and have them press in the bearings and torque the nut to the required 300lbs (?). That is just beyond my toolbox and talents to set those bearings like that.
I figure also why I have the car up and have to bleed the brakes anyway I am going to install some Stainlesss brakelines and paint the calipers.
Thank for the help.
Regards,
Brian
This is why I was going to take off the trailing arm and have them press in the bearings and torque the nut to the required 300lbs (?). That is just beyond my toolbox and talents to set those bearings like that.
I figure also why I have the car up and have to bleed the brakes anyway I am going to install some Stainlesss brakelines and paint the calipers.
Thank for the help.
Regards,
Brian
02-20-2002, 05:44 PM
#4
Here is another thought before you go tearing into the bearings. I had a similar situation on my 89 930. Mine turned out to be the parking brake shoes. The shoes had deteriorated and a spring had broken. Some pieces had broken off and wedged between the drum (inside of rotor) and the mechanism. Hence the drag on one wheel and the constant scraping. Pull the rotor off and take a look at parking brakes.