eastside

Bill ,thanks for the reply.The dyno pull was at a club function and I did not want someone I was not familiar with hooking up gear to my engine. So I declined to get the boost checked. I have adj boost which I cranked all the way up for the run , but I have no idea what spring is installed. Something else I guess I need to have checked. Thanks for the offer on the spring I will let you know. Eastside

ZCAT3

Well if you have an adjustable boost, then you should run a stock spring. That sets the low end of your boost. You may want to find out what boost you are at when you crank it up so that you don't blow up your engine.

jrogers

It seems like most of the posts in the past here like the GHL headers over the B&B, but I have had the B&B on my car for 4+ years without any problems. They make a big difference. Also, you might consider switching to a sachs lightweight sport clutch if you do the cams or have the engine out for other mods. Mine started slipping because I had too much power for the clamping power of the stock cluch as I made modifications over time, even though there was plenty of material left on the disc.

KeithC2Turto

If it was at a club event, how did you place amoung the others. Belive it or not. different dynos can read different. Did any other Turbos out do you? What were the numbers of some to the stock cars for reference? could give some indication.

Also, was you tail up?

If so you may not have been getting enough air flow over your I/C. This could hurt your performance also. Some people put a fan on top of the wing.

eastside

Maybe I am getting some bad advice but my mech told me to leave the boost all the way up. As I would only be making max boost during hard acceleration. The tail was down during the test and the guys had two large fans blowing on the deck.

Sameer

I used to run a 1 bar spring but after doing mods like headers, exhaust, it used to run upto close to 1.1 bar which I feel is'nt safe in the long run. I purchased a 0.9 bar spring from Protomotive engineering and now it climbs to just below 1 bar at full load/throttle.
Go for a 0.9 bar spring if you want to stick below 1 bar with mods.

John from WA

All the way up?? Do you know what boost you were actually achieving?

With enough boost your engine lifespan starts getting measured in hours, minutes or even seconds.

Sameer

John,
Great website you got there. Hows your ride running? How often do you track it? What sort of mods you done to it? What boost? Curious curious curious...

John from WA

Thanks for the complinent Sameer, the car is running great. I have just signed up for the first DE this year (I usually get 2 in each season). Mods, she's got lots of mods. Everything but the new Porsche stickers down the left and right side of the car (like on the old RSR's) is on the website. My dyno runs were at 1bar, but I am running it at .8 on the street. The torque (390ft lbs at the wheel)this thing creates is awesome and a bit scary when, at it oftens does, it rains up here. It will easily spin the tires when the boost hits in the dry (no dropping the clutch or any other tricks, just a lead foot). The best trick though is shifting from 2nd at redline... I throw 2-3 foot flames out the back. Makes everyone behind me slow down, way down.

Am considering installing a fire system in it and at some point a roll bar. No rush on the roll bar though because I sometimes drive the kids around in it.

Engine
3.3 ltr Turbo Engine (1979)

SC 330 Cams (Elgin ground)
K27-7200 Turbocharger (Imagine Auto)
Kokeln Intercooler (Kokeln)
1 Bar Boost Spring (Andial)
Sachs aluminum clutch
Ported/flowed manifold
Aluminum injector blocks (Powerhaus) taper bored to match the ported manifold with the stock heads.
GHL headers and muffler

Dyno Sheets (Dyno'd at 450hp crank)

Transmission
Stock 930 4 speed with Short Ring and Pinion (8:39 Andial)

Suspension
Bilstein Sports
Racers Group Sway Bars (TRG) 22/25
Hollow Torsion Bars 23/33 (Sander)
Cambermeister
Other stuff
AJ-USA brake cool kit (AJ-USA)
Pagid Orange track pads/Metal master pads for street
Schroth harnesses (Rennsport)
Electric Cutoff (Racer Wholesale)(Stomski Racing)
Harness bar (Weltmeister)
IC temp gauge (Davtron) 308FD $160 (make sure you get 2' or 3' more wire. standard isn't quite long enough)
Pyrometer (eGauges.com)
Outside temp gauge (eGauges.com)
H1 headlights
"Porsche Racing" Sunscreen (GT-Racing)
Momo "Race" Steering wheel (Pelican Parts)
Mechanical boost gauge (VDO)
Shift coupler (Stomski Racing)
Club Sport engine mounts
Air/oil separator (later model part)
Magnecor Ignition wires
Carrera tensioners
Wings Engineering third foot
Freshly powder-coated fan, engine tin, intake pipes

ken louie

hey jim the reason why I think most people prefer the GHL over B&B is B&B lack of standing behind their products. I believe they used to offer a limited lifetime warrenty now it's only 2 years. I personally am having problems with my B&B back cat muffler on my 944 turbo that I had for 9 years (purchased it new). The weld around the tubing where it goes into the canister broke. They want $400 to repair/replace my muffler.

ken

Sameer

John,
thanks for the info. Your car sure sounds great. Me to when I'm upshifting above 4500 revs, it shoots out 2-3 foot flames in all gears. Why you only running at 0.8 bar of boost? With good fueling, cooling, air fuel ratio, you can safely take it upto 1 bar without shortening engine lifespan. Unless you have lousy grade fuel?? Are you running any fuel enrichment?

John from WA

I don't need the enrichment. The '79 has a fuel head that supports upwards of 450hp without one (my dyno supports this). I toned down the boost to lower the power a bit since this has been a daily driver... and it rains a lot up here. Tire spin every time you accelerate gets old after awhile. When it dries out a bit later this spring I will probally put the 1 bar spring back in.

I could probably stand putting in the Carrera oil cooler this spring as well.