Barrel Leaks
#16
I am in the middle of the rebuild. I got new rings from True Seal. The top ring is much stronger than the original set it got. But more interesting I got a newer 3 piece oil ring. They move around much more readily than the originals. However they are much more fiddley, it was tough moving their gaps to 100 degrees away from each other then offset the top and second ring. I used a healthy dose of Curil T on the thicker base gaskets and will apply extra sealant to the cam housing. Stupid me forgot the heatsheilds around the barrels before putting on the heads. Re/Re the oil tubes to install them is a PITA.
I hope to have it back together this Saturday. Fingers, toes and other appendages crossed.
I hope to have it back together this Saturday. Fingers, toes and other appendages crossed.
#17
Hey Rob, good luck. Let us know how things turn out. I still haven't touched mine yet. Lot of things going on and I just haven't had the time. Hope to continue researching my issues soon....
Best Regards,
Todd
Best Regards,
Todd
#18
El Rattler lives!!! Finally started last night. this was a massive learning experience. First time to do rings, set valve timing and clutch fork alignment. I thought I was finished on Saturday only to discover the clutch fork was stuck. I removed the engine in 30mins! My mechanic was impressed. Turned out the fork did not line up properly with the release bearing.
I spent more time fabricating wiring harness for the overboost switch due to the position of the 965 intercooler, largely because winter finally came to Tokyo last night. My fingers just didnt want to work.
It fired up right away, no leaks, no smoke. Only a very slight knock which sounds like a 69-73 motor.
Next weekend I set the CO and emissions, run it through the ridiculously expensive($1500) bi-yearly inspection then I am ready to play. The trick will be to keep the boost below 1 bar.
I spent more time fabricating wiring harness for the overboost switch due to the position of the 965 intercooler, largely because winter finally came to Tokyo last night. My fingers just didnt want to work.
It fired up right away, no leaks, no smoke. Only a very slight knock which sounds like a 69-73 motor.
Next weekend I set the CO and emissions, run it through the ridiculously expensive($1500) bi-yearly inspection then I am ready to play. The trick will be to keep the boost below 1 bar.
#20
the engine wasn't so hard I think. Its paying the almost $2000 in car taxes and inspection fees just to have the pleasure of driving here in Japan which is not for the faint of heart. I finally finished it off and took it home today. Fell in love all over again. No oil leaks, no smoke. Next job repack the left driveshaft and straighten some tin work I bent.
#21
Congratulations Rob!!! That's fantastic. I wish I had good news but unfortunately, I haven't been able to find my mojoe...
I just recently started the car praying for a miracle but alas, no such luck. I'll have to bite the bullet and drop the motor again. Just not quite sure where the knock is coming from. That's my dilemma.
Again, congratulations on getting her up and running...
Best Regards,
Todd
I just recently started the car praying for a miracle but alas, no such luck. I'll have to bite the bullet and drop the motor again. Just not quite sure where the knock is coming from. That's my dilemma.
Again, congratulations on getting her up and running...
Best Regards,
Todd
#22
Happy New Year and all the best for 2014. How`s it going? Any luck with your motor?
I had a chance to listen to my friends 86-930. At start up both cars sounded the same. So I guess I was hyper-sensitive. The more I drive it the less I hear the knock. I found a drop of oil from which can only be coming from the strain/drain area. I forgot the tighten the nut before the sealant dried. The nuts were finger tight. I dont see any oil traces from anywhere else apart from that area. I treated the car to an exhaust heat wrap from the where the two manifold meet all the way to the muffler. that silenced a slight leak from a cracked flange. As a passenger I can really feel the boost, which i could as the driver. the engine revs much freer too, almost like a NA. Most people say a ring job alone rarely works, but after 1000km all seems well.
I had a chance to listen to my friends 86-930. At start up both cars sounded the same. So I guess I was hyper-sensitive. The more I drive it the less I hear the knock. I found a drop of oil from which can only be coming from the strain/drain area. I forgot the tighten the nut before the sealant dried. The nuts were finger tight. I dont see any oil traces from anywhere else apart from that area. I treated the car to an exhaust heat wrap from the where the two manifold meet all the way to the muffler. that silenced a slight leak from a cracked flange. As a passenger I can really feel the boost, which i could as the driver. the engine revs much freer too, almost like a NA. Most people say a ring job alone rarely works, but after 1000km all seems well.
#23
Hey Rob,
Unfortunately, no luck yet. I just keep looking at the car like something magical is going to happen and it's going to fix itself...duh...
I'm still trying to figure out what type of knock it is. I've drained the oil and there's no metal debris of any kind in the oil, so I was hoping that would be a good sign. I still have to pull the passenger side valve covers to see if anything is loose on that side. After that, I'll probably have to pull the timing chain covers to inspect those areas as well. That mean's I'll need to do a partial drop and I'm just to fricken lazy to do it right now...
It's on my list of things to accomplish this year. I've got other projects that have kept me busy so it really hasn't been a priority. But that's about to change....
Best wishes to you for the new year. Wishing you continued happiness, health and prosperity...
Best Regards,
Todd
Unfortunately, no luck yet. I just keep looking at the car like something magical is going to happen and it's going to fix itself...duh...
I'm still trying to figure out what type of knock it is. I've drained the oil and there's no metal debris of any kind in the oil, so I was hoping that would be a good sign. I still have to pull the passenger side valve covers to see if anything is loose on that side. After that, I'll probably have to pull the timing chain covers to inspect those areas as well. That mean's I'll need to do a partial drop and I'm just to fricken lazy to do it right now...
It's on my list of things to accomplish this year. I've got other projects that have kept me busy so it really hasn't been a priority. But that's about to change....
Best wishes to you for the new year. Wishing you continued happiness, health and prosperity...
Best Regards,
Todd
#24
Sorry for chiming in, but did you cut open your oil filter to check for? I cut the bottom out of mine every oil change (every two months) just from habit. You can peel every layer on the filter after removing it from the bottom.
Rob
Rob
#25
Update?
After much sleepless night and nail biting, I drained the oil and removed the filter. No filings and very dust on the drain filter magnet. And the oil is still clean!! 2 months later. I highly recommend EBS Racing and Tru Seal for some great rings.
After much sleepless night and nail biting, I drained the oil and removed the filter. No filings and very dust on the drain filter magnet. And the oil is still clean!! 2 months later. I highly recommend EBS Racing and Tru Seal for some great rings.
#27
Any luck on your car Jitters?
I took mine on a trip last weekend 800km 4.5h to go and 3.5h to return. about 10kpl or 23mpg averaging 80mph.
Only issue was voltage regulator and/or front fuel pump.
Very minor oil leak from a repair oil scavenge return line. Otherwise no smoke and runs strong.
I took mine on a trip last weekend 800km 4.5h to go and 3.5h to return. about 10kpl or 23mpg averaging 80mph.
Only issue was voltage regulator and/or front fuel pump.
Very minor oil leak from a repair oil scavenge return line. Otherwise no smoke and runs strong.