mtnbiker63

Has anyone installed Elephant Racing’s coil over suspension kit? How did you like it? Any other suggestions?

TT Surgeon

They are very well known in the 930 racing world. Most rec the CO w 200# springs w the TBs.

mtnbiker63

Do the spring weights need to match from front to back? I have a ton of questions, I hope their customer service is helpful. I also noticed they offer coil over conversion kits, a much cheaper way to go. I have brand new Bilsteins in the rear. I’m not going to race this car, so not sure I need the Von Street Coil Over System.

strudel

You don't state a reason for wanting to go to coil overs. The advantage of coil overs is easier suspension set up, and you can get springs that are firmer than torsion bars if that's what you want. I don't see any benefit for a street car. Also, if your going to convert to full coil over in the rear, you really need to beef up the top shock mount. Not trying to talk you out of it, just information.
I found that re-valving the stock shocks improved the ride and handling.

mtnbiker63

I saw the weld ins for the rear shocks. That doesn’t require pulling the engine does it? I haven’t looked closely to notice the access to the top of the rear struts. I hear what you are saying regarding a street car. I like the option of easier set up. I tend to drive a little harder then most or at least enjoy taking the car to its limits when safe to do so.

I mentioned in my other thread a height difference between the front corners. The RT side is a full inch higher. I’m hoping it’s only a torsion bar adjustment and not failing strut. If it’s a failing strut, then I wanted to upgrade the front suspension.

I appreciate ever ones opinions

strudel

Yes, requires pulling the engine. With re valved front & rear shocks, larger than stock torsion bars, and bigger adjustable sway bars you can get it to handle really well. The set up would be great for D.E. events, yet not be too stiff for the street.
You could try disconnecting the sway bars and see if they are binding, pull the front struts and see if both sides collapse the same. If it's a rear torsion bar adjustment you have about 1" of adjustment before you need to pull the spring plate and re-index it.

TT Surgeon

I would rec the CO conversion kit w 200# springs rear. This functions as a helper spring and negates the need to modify the perches.