skipp

http://www.globalautosports.com/car/...upe-25263.html


Thanks

JDHertz11

Don't know the car, but it looks nice and has low miles. Pretty inexpensive considering the miles...

srf506

Depends on what your goals are for buying the car. If it's just to continue "displaying" it in a garage or museum then it's a great example. If your goal is to make a daily driver, or weekend cruiser to go on trips and spirited drives then low miles aren't necessarily a good thing. Seals, hoses, tires, and trim dry out, metal isn't sufficiently lubed to prevent rust and corrosion, electrical connectors and relays can corrode, I've even seen clutches "stick" to flywheels from sitting too long. 14,000 miles on a 24 year-old car is a little under 600 miles per year average. A car needs to be driven on a regular basis and maintained appropriately in order to be reliable.

911rudy

I had my flywheel stick to my clutch in only 6 months. To unstick it put the tranny in 1st gear if the area in front of you is clear or reverse if it isn't and then put your foot on the clutch pedal but do not depress it. Turn the key and as soon as the car starts fwd/rearwd push in the clutch. It worked for me on the firsrt try. The advice about mileage is correct. If you treasure low mileage than every time you drive the car you will be losing some of your treasure. Most of us don't put a lot of miles on our cars but it's not because we are saving its value.

skipp

Thanks for the insight...I like the low miles and minimal ware, but don't want a bunch of problems from lack of use. Will a ppi, compression & leakdown let me know if the low miles and lack of use will be a problem?

Plan to drive it as much as possible regardless of depreciation.

Thanks

HkPlinker

That's cheap, hell, Sloan would have $ 59,000 on the car if it was in his inventory.

HkPlinker

A PPi will help, but a few of my conserns would be turbo seals, rubber lines, hoses, just good Ol plain dry rot.

mike5876

well Sloan is a moron on his prices! lol

srf506

A PPI can identify a lot of it, especially if it's done by a really sharp Porsche savvy mechanic. However, it's still safe to assume there will be a few issues that'll crop up in the car as you use it which you should reserve for. Fluids, filters, and belts should be inspected/replaced if they show any degradation. Any hoses brake, oil and fuel that show any deterioration or possible issue should be replaced. If the car still has a heater it should be thoroughly check out to ensure it's functioning, as should the AC. Are the hoses, drier, compressor, and etc okay? Grease in wheel bearings and other places where it is used to lube moving parts is probably old, and dried out, probably should check that out carefully too. Ball Joints and other suspension bushings and shims should be looked at. As should the rack and pinion and its oil. Same for the brake fluid, it probably should be changed out while you're at it. Electric windows should probably be lubed, and with as little use as this car has seen I'd maybe run it through a car wash, or at least hit it with a garden hose, to see if the windows leak. I'm not saying it's not a good car, and you have to set your own affordability level. I don't know this car at all. But those are some things I'd be concerned about/looking at other than just the engine, tranny and turbo. Yes, those are the expensive bits, but you'll be suprised how fast all of those little things can add up also. The car looks good in pictures. We're just trying to be sure you think through the price versus the risks and don't get caught up in "Buyer's Fever." I'd hate to think of anyone getting a bad taste in their mouth after buying their "dream car" and getting disgruntled because a bunch of stuff the buyer wasn't knowledgeable/thinking about spoiled his fun and drive his cost way up. Good luck and let us know what happens.

rbigwood

I bought a low usage car this fall and so I can provide a little data on my experience so far. Mine had 38k on it and had only seen about 6k since a full engine reseal in 2002 that included some while you are in there work like valve guide replacement.

My PPI showed excellent compression numbers and a minor oil leak at the left lower valve cover, a very slight weaping at the case seam, radio inop, slow passenger's side power window, and that was pretty much it. He did check all of the rubber lines thoroughly and said the car looked like it had been stored very well and the rubber was in great condition.

I've put about 2500 miles on it since, and I have not (yet...) experienced the catastrophic emergence of leaks that some advised was likely to happen as I started to drive the car. The mechanic who did the PPI even went so far as to suggest that the case seam leak might even decrease as the car go driven (and it has). I was quite careful to bring the thing back on line slowly though, basically driving it like I was breaking in a new car, heat cycling it multiple times with fresh oil in it before really pushing it. I think that will help avoid seal failures, but it's a crap-shoot.

What I have experienced is a number of electrical issues, including the yellow boost relay and an intermittant CDI box failure that caused me to have the local flatbed guy on speed-dial for a while until I got that sorted out with some help from Loren. Now after several hours of replacing pretty much all relays and cleaning contacts it seems to be running much more reliably. I had some heating control issues that were also related to it sitting for a long time, like a squealing footwell blower motor and some erratic fan behavior, but those were cured with a little time taking things apart, cleaning and lubing in my garage as well.

I still have some minor drivability issues, including a slight rough running around 2200 rpm at light throttle that I'm trying to workout, but the thing runs great outside of that window and after a stressful period with the electrical related breakdowns, I'm very happy I bought the car and I'm enjoying it thoroughly.

Re: this particular car, I can understand the appeal of a 13k low mileage car, but having read your intended use (driving as much as possible) I think you might be just as well served, or maybe better, by looking at a nicely sorted higher mileage car that has been in service with evidence of a recent topend job. As a previous poster said, I think paying that kind of premium for a very low mileage car really only makes sense if your intention is non-driver investment.

skipp

Thanks to all for the insight...I called the company that listed the car and they didn't even know the car was listed....ie. they don't have the car!!

JDHertz11

???

srf506

Okay, now that's just weird!

87turbo87

Did they try and steer you to another car when you called? You gotta love when listers advertise cheaply and pull the "it just sold" or "geez...Bob was ham handed again when he listed the car".

Hateful strategy.....

Al Z

If you are interested, I have a very nice polar silver 930 with many nice upgrades. It has aprox 66k miles but all the upgrades were performed about 6k miles ago by the porsche mechanic at a dealership in Michigan.
Rebuilt engine -K27 turbo, andial intercooler, one bar wastegate,993 twin turbo head studs, carrera chain tensioners, SC cams and such. new clutch, pressure plate, shocks...Let me know if you are interested. I can be reached at 248-631-7660