Hello,
I made a post here a month or two ago about smoking issue. I have the proper amount of 15w 40 oil in the car, It has no oil residue in the intercooler plumbing or pooling at the compressor. I have not done compression or leakdown yet- I'm a little busy lately and this has gotten very little of my attention. The car starts and runs normally. When I take a few easy laps around the block there is no smoke. But if I rev the car in the driveway or boost the car at all when driving, I get smoke. The heavier I boost, the heavier the smoke. And then the idle gets weird (probably from choking), and she keeps smoking from then on. There is a puff of smoke when she starts but it looks normal. Just runs fine until boost.

Is that turbo swap or rebuild the motor? I know it's easy to swap the turbo compared to the motor rebuild, I guess I would do that next. BTW, it smells like oil smoke and it's blue. Also worth mentioning is that the car is US spec 1979, presumed stock 3.3L, no unusual mechanical noise from valves or any other rotating assembly , shows 55k on the odo, has a tranny issue where it pops out of second, and there is a spare fuel distrib that came with the car that looks mint. AND- There is a stand alone single fuel injector that is not connected to any wiring but IS connected to what looks to be an extra loop that has been added to the distributor - likely a fuel enrichment device? Does this point to a car that was at one point heavily modified and now needs the total treatment? Any 930 guys in the neighborhood ? Appreciate the help... And it did not come with an airbox, I had to buy one. Sounds like the car was maybe abused a bit doesn't it

Thanks,
Mason

 

How do you know it's the proper amount of oil? I've accidentally overfilled mine once so now I only run the oil on the dipstick half way in between the upper and lower hash mark on the stick....no need to fill it to the top....just keep an eye on it.


Sounds pretty much like the same problem Xboardwell had recently...he had to rebuild his turbo...the seals were shot.

 

Why 15w-40? Is that a synthetic?

To add to Chucks comment, make sure the oil is up to temp and the engine running.

 

Ditto,

I recall when I first got mine that I would fill the damn thing up until the oil was at the full mark. I had no clue that you had to warm the car up to operating temp before checking. Boy what a marooon...

I'm also curious as to why the 15w-40. From what I understand 20w-50 is the recommended grade. I'm currently using Swepco 306.

Jitters

 

Very good point aout temp.. My daughter overfilled a 911 of mine so much it hydrolocked the motor. Doubt this is the case here. I would think the turbo is a great place to start. The extra injector and the missing airbox plumbing would all wisper that the car at one time was running boost levels that merited the need for more fuel. I could see how the injecter timing could be tied to the distributor but could only imagine how you could get a good cycle this way...? Anyone heard of that before?

Good luck, keep us posted- Mike

 

Also curious about the viscosity you're using....most of the guys I know use a 20-50 weight. I've always used the Castrol GTX 20-50...and that's been used in the car since new according to the records....and there's 53K miles on it now. I don't know too many folks who use lower viscosity oils in the 930.

 

First, warm the car up and get an accurate oil reading. You should always be about half way up the oil gauge, by the way, not 100% topped off on the gauge but just half way. This keeps oil from sloshing around under cornering. Good 930 mechanics will always use half a quart less than full.

Assuming that the oil level is okay:

1) You said that the car starts fine without smoke under normal driving. In my opinion this rules out engine rings being cracked. You would see that at idle and start up as a ton of smoke.

2) you see blue smoke under boost, suggesting turbo seals. Fuel smoke would be black. So my guess is turbo seals or blowing smoke somewhere in the turbo set up.

3) Assuming that the previous owner added a 7th injector or something like that so as to get more fuel, I believe you ALSO are running way too rich air to fuel ratios, which will cause your idling problems because your plugs are fouling up as well as contribute some black smoke to the on-boost mix.

IMO, check the oil level and then the turbo seals for the blue smoke and then the actual air to fuel ratio for the idling/plugs fouling issue.

You may find that this car just needs a good tune up and fresh turbo. If the PO ran higher boost levels, he certainly would have needed more fuel.

Do you have a boost gauge, is the boost level adjustable, and what boost level are you actually running? This is important information to have.

 

Your tranny problem may be a couple of things.

When engine and tranny mounts get really old and worn, your tranny will move about when you accelerate and brake and turn, and this can physically tug on the shift rod which essentially pulls you out of gear.

You may just need to adjust the clutch and shifter to each other. This is just a adjustment so that the shifter works smooth and stays in gear, and old cars often need it.

Finally it could be the tranny. The second gear hub could be worn.

One thing about these old cars is that they are pretty reliable and a lot of times they just are way out of tune.

 

NICE!!!!!

 

Hi Mike,
It looks to be tapped into the return line ( I only looked at it once about 2 months ago) and then loops back to a supply port- but I don't recall- would have to photo it for you. Thanks for the well wish , I will post my result whenever I get one.

 

RE: Oil Level

I'm aware of the need for operating temp when check oil.... My car has not reached the middle of the range even after 20 minutes of idling. Is there some condition which could cause a low temp scenario? I have checked the level a 100 times, and even drained some oil out to make it nice and even at the middle of the hash marks.... But never when temp was in the middle of the op range because she hasn't gotten there yet. I don't have it on the road yet I presume that the car should reach operating temp after 20 minutes idling in 40 degree weather... am I mistaken? Maybe I will let it idle for 30 minutes and check the oil level and report back as a first step. Big difference from the 928

Thanks...

 

Also-I am running a few qts of 20w50 mixed with the 15w40. There is a very weird scenario around my megatropolis (philly) whereby it becomes almost a mission to find 20w50. Probably because everyone drives a honda!!! Anyway, I really like the post about from DDD about the 930 just needing to be tuned;That enhances my affinity for the car! My dad had one some years ago and I've driven many many cars of pedigree and it us undeniable IMO that the 930 is pure genius. Dr. Porsche drove the first production 930 5000 miles (green on green- in the museum). I wonder how he felt after the first few heavy footed twisties!!!

The first few times I ran the car I had oil actually leaking out of the muffler. Since there is no oil in the intake plumbing, are you guys saying that the oil on the turbine side could be seeping past the seal and burning off in the turbo downpipe? I'm praying it's not engine rebuild, I don't have the time to do this before this summer and I hope to drive this car by June. And which is the best way to see the seals- do I have to pull the turbo apart? Thanks again, Rennlist is definately #1 for solving problems.

 

I don't let my car sit and warm up. In fact, I dont think it will warm up at idle. I would suggest 3-4 minutes and then drive car, keeping the revs down and off the boost until it comes up to temp. Then check your oil level.

If you have oil in the muffler but not the intercooler, I'd say there us a problem with the turbo. You may also want to disconnect the 7th injector and see what fresh plugs do for the idle.

 

My temp gauge starts at about 120 degrees and after ten minutes or so of steady driving it gets to 180 degrees which is still at the bottom of the gauge.

If my car gets above 180, then oil is automatically channeled from the oil pump at the back of the engine oil tank up the tubes to the front passenger side fender oil cooler.

I think all 930s are similiar so under normal conditions you should only get to 180 degrees or maybe 200 degrees before your oil pump starts cirulating oil to cool it.

Getting the car to operating temperature usually means going for a couple turns around the block until the gauge hits 180.

What were you shooting for, 260 degrees?

 

LOL...

I appreciate both comments. The car very well may never warm up sitting idling, especially in the temp we had on saturday.... Therefore when I circle the block, I'm essentially overfilled. Boy that would be stupid. But at the same time, I hope it's exactly that

My '79 doesn't show temps just a range- or at least I don't recall the numbers on the dial. I'm busy building a great daily driver 928 for the show circuit this summer and I haven't really had time to play with this ULTIMATE TOY!!! 930