Cajun

Any leads?

I would like the old school kind with the ****...

Anyone know where I should begin my search???

DDD

I just bought a boost controller I love. The Hallman pro RX with a ceramic ball.

My boost accuracy is pinpoint, with no creep or anything else. It builds boost quick because the hallman delays the signal to the wastegate and doesn't allow the wastegate to open early and leak pressure.

I got it at boostcontroller.com.

I will double check that address. But you can buy the hallman all over the place on the internet for about $125 bucks.

It was really easy to install. It just goes inline on the way to the wastegate and you leave the wastegate top open to vent to the atmosphere. turn the **** to adjust boost.

The ceramic ball is for optimal response time.

Helmsy

DDD have you installed the controller in the cabin? Where have you mounted the actual controller? What boost do you now run with the controller at max?

911rudy

I use a TurboSX with a switch inside the cabin for the two positions available. Using the stock spring in the WG for a base you can have two positions of your choice. I chose .98 bar so that I didn't get any boost creep from the normal delay of any system. The upper selectio0n is very easy to set in the engine compartment and then you can select it with a switch in the cabin. I have never heard of a reason to have instantly adjustable boost from the cabin. Can you tell me when you would want to be able to adjust boost as you go?

JFairman

probably just the desire for manual control
also you can turn the boost up for one shift.. then turn it back down.

Cajun

The reason I want the controller is because my fiancee' is afraid of the car. I would like the option of turning the boost way down and having the car act like a "regular" 911, and then when I am ready to drive her hard, turn the boost up. I simply want the option.

Porschefile

Just remember that it's not physically possible to run any less than the wastegate spring pressure.

Mark Houghton

My boost accuracy is pinpoint, with no creep or anything else. It builds boost quick because the hallman delays the signal to the wastegate and doesn't allow the wastegate to open early and leak pressure.

Being the thrifty and inventive person that I am, it seems I'm always trying to make a better mouse trap. So, I put my own boost controller together with 12V operated solenoid, coupled with an adjustable pressure switch. Simply delays the boost signal from reaching the wastegate at whatever I set it at. Works great. The only potential issue is that it's electrical, vs. spring-and-ball valve mechanical, and thus is prone to any electrical gremlins that may be lurking around the engine bay.
Just keep the overboost stuff hooked up and functional at all times.

pkrasusky

I just picked my car up a couple weeks ago and the PO had recently installed a GReddy Profec B Spec II unit. It's got a ton of optional features that allow you to more finely tune it... gain, programmable warning (which includes color change to the display which is great at night I don't even need to look at the gauge), max and min boost, a boost gauge (in either kpa or psi), peak boost, etc.

I just obtained the user manual and am familiarizing myself with it accordingly. I've seen them online for anywhere from $350 to $425. While the name is rather rice the unit is pretty darn trick and in black with a medium blue LCD (red for warning) it looks great!

Course me WG isn't opening right now so the controller's moot 8-). It goes into the shop Monday for a looksee who did both the controller install as well as a prior WG rebuild for the PO, hoping it's something stupid / their fault. Wish me luck!

Good luck with your decision.

911rudy

Mark, by using a pressure switch you are inducing creep or delay or over shoot or what ever you want to call it. The mere fact that you have an electrical device operated by a pressure switch that opens a mechanical device is inheirently lag prone. I applaud your inventiveness but what do you think all the other BC do? The purely mechanical ones use a spring against a valve/ball and are prone to variations due to friction and valve spring variances. The electronic ones us a pressure sensor and work through an electrical solenoid to open a mechanical WG valve. All BC end up opening a mechanical WG so there can never be a 100% efficent controller. If you aim for just shy of your end goal on boost, no matter what kind of controller you use you, will err on the side of no overboost cutout switch activation and no potential overboost damage. Good luck with your quest!

Mark Houghton

Yeah, it's a fine line on where to set the pressure switch. Certainly, there is the delay factor in the time it takes for the pressure switch to activate, and the time it takes for the solenoid to open, and the time it takes for the air charge to travel to the WG. Consequently, the pressure switch is set for something less than the desired WG opening setting (i.e., set the switch for say .8 bar, and end up with the WG opening at 1.0). It does seem to work well, because once the WG is open...well, it's open and stays that way until off-throttle and the solenoid closes. Anyway, I was just scabbing together some garage parts and came up with this system. So far, no over-boost but again, I'm keeping all the safety features intact, just in case.
I think once I'm done playing around with this little mod, I'll probably just go with a 1.0 bar spring and forget it. Really no need to push this beast much harder than that anyway. My garage-inventiveness saved me the $50 price tag on a spring, so I could assess higher boost and figure out just where I wanted to settle in at. Since then, I've replaced the stock WG with a Tial, so at least the springs are half the cost!
Thanks for your comments, Rudy.

nathanUK '81 930 G50

Remember, the wastegate doesn't dump boost, it dumps exhaust to bypass the turbo to stop the turbo from overboosting.

DDD

Sorry about the late reply. The Hallman comes with an optional wire which can be run to your cabin. you can control the boost from the cabin with the optional wire. It costs more money that way.

Honestly, I put mine on 1 bar boost just by twisting the **** carefully a little bit at a time for a couple road trips and it was fine. But you can get cabin control if you want it.

There really truly is no need for a electronic boost controller once you have tried a Hallman with a ceramic ball. But if you want the bells and whistles, the Greddy pro-spec A or B series is the best electronic boost controller series, IMO. Also sold at that boostcontroller website.

DDD

You can overdo it if you are not careful. The wastegate spring is supposed to be about 70-80% of the boost level you achieve with the controller dialed up. Otherwise, the wastegate will open too soon and bleed a lot of boost while the boost is trying to build.

If you put a .5 bar spring in your wastegate, it won't run very well at 1 bar of boost. In that case you probably would need an electonic boost contoller, and I am not sure that would work either.

You will be fine using a .7 bar spring and then turning the dial up to 1 bar. That will be close enough not too bleed boost.

Honestly, can't she just drive with a light foot?