Brake Caliper Rebuild
#61
Originally Posted by Dickyboy
Hi Dave,
quick note regards your picture, what is the part no. or name for the front valance you've put on. It looks fantastic. Where could I find that and at what cost?
Thanks for any help
Rich
quick note regards your picture, what is the part no. or name for the front valance you've put on. It looks fantastic. Where could I find that and at what cost?
Thanks for any help
Rich
#62
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Dickyboy
Hi Dave,
quick note regards your picture, what is the part no. or name for the front valance you've put on. It looks fantastic. Where could I find that and at what cost?
Thanks for any help
Rich
quick note regards your picture, what is the part no. or name for the front valance you've put on. It looks fantastic. Where could I find that and at what cost?
Thanks for any help
Rich
Here a picture before some bending and polishing was done.
Regards, Dave
#64
Sorry for the confuison, I miss-read the names, yes JFairman, I meant the blue beauty posted by 1980-930....... Dave and Dave, thanks anyway!! The DP 935 spoiler looks fantastic!
Rich
Rich
#66
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Gary R.
Dave - any new reports after new front rotors?
I picked up the car this evening and put 20 miles on it. The front rotors were replaced with stock units, as were the brake pads. The front bearings were also replaced. The local shop bedded the pads and the car brakes perfectly strait under normal braking, without any brake noise. I did not get on the brakes hard, as I wanted to give them 24 hours to rest after the bedding-in process. While I'm optimistic wrt the car braking in a strait line, I checked the temperature (with my hand) of the wheels after parking in the garage and the front left was significantly cooler than the other three. This concerns me, but I'm going to put a few hundred miles on this weekend and see what happens.
Regards, Dave
#68
Rennlist Member
Dave - stop reading temps with your hand and just drive her! If you are not feeling any issues while driving and you still want to know temps get an infrared temp sensor like this.. http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?r...650&Nav=temj04
#69
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Gary R.
Dave - stop reading temps with your hand and just drive her! If you are not feeling any issues while driving and you still want to know temps get an infrared temp sensor like this.. http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?r...650&Nav=temj04
Good advice, I'm going to drive the crap out of it this weekend. I drove the car to work and back today and it seems to be braking perfectly. I did a few medium/hard braking tests and all is well. This weekend I'll do some track style brake tests and see where I stand.
Thanks again to all that have contributed to this issue, as always it's a learning experience.
Regards, Dave
#70
Need to check shocks
I drive a 1984 930, running close to 450 hp and have spent the last year getting my suspension and breaks balanced with the horsepower...it's been a fun learning process.
I suggest checking your shocks . Under heavy braking, the front dives down (bounce) and the rear end lifts (rebound). If your shocks are worn then the bounce and rebound rates could be different from side to side. The result is a faster weight transfer forward on one side than the other and at threshold braking , the "lighter" side will lock-up.
A simple test is to walk to each corner of the car and bounce the suspension with your body weight. After a few bounces you will get a good feel for how easy it is to bounce the shock down and how quickly the suspension rebounds. You will see that the fronts behave differently from the rears, but both fronts should be equal and both rears should be equal. If not equal from side to side then its time to replace the shocks.
You can also get a weird noise out of a broken shock.
I was having a problem with my front left locking up and found the problem to be a difference of .25 degrees of camber. I had 1.5 degrees on the front left and 1.25 degrees on the front right. After resetting the camber to 1.5 degrees on both sides the problem was greatly reduced.
Another issue I have been dealing with is not enough bias in the rear breaks. I can't pull more than .9g braking, and have monitored 944s and 968s that pull over 1.2g. I just ordered a dual master cylinder kit from SmartRacing along with their fox shock package. The Bilstein Sports don't control the dive enough during heavy breaking for my taste. I'm going to keep digging and changing stuff until I can get up to the 1.2g level.
Good luck and be sure to enjoy the process.
I suggest checking your shocks . Under heavy braking, the front dives down (bounce) and the rear end lifts (rebound). If your shocks are worn then the bounce and rebound rates could be different from side to side. The result is a faster weight transfer forward on one side than the other and at threshold braking , the "lighter" side will lock-up.
A simple test is to walk to each corner of the car and bounce the suspension with your body weight. After a few bounces you will get a good feel for how easy it is to bounce the shock down and how quickly the suspension rebounds. You will see that the fronts behave differently from the rears, but both fronts should be equal and both rears should be equal. If not equal from side to side then its time to replace the shocks.
You can also get a weird noise out of a broken shock.
I was having a problem with my front left locking up and found the problem to be a difference of .25 degrees of camber. I had 1.5 degrees on the front left and 1.25 degrees on the front right. After resetting the camber to 1.5 degrees on both sides the problem was greatly reduced.
Another issue I have been dealing with is not enough bias in the rear breaks. I can't pull more than .9g braking, and have monitored 944s and 968s that pull over 1.2g. I just ordered a dual master cylinder kit from SmartRacing along with their fox shock package. The Bilstein Sports don't control the dive enough during heavy breaking for my taste. I'm going to keep digging and changing stuff until I can get up to the 1.2g level.
Good luck and be sure to enjoy the process.
#72
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Interesting that this thread has come alive again ... I just put 150 miles on the car since the front rotors and pads were replaced and the front right brake still locks up under heavy braking. In addition, the pads squeal. I'm not ready to quit, but I do not have a strong strategy moving forward at this time. I'm quite sure that this issue is past what the local Porsche mechanics can handle, so I'm open for suggestions wrt the best place to take the car in the florida area. I don't care where they are located, I just want the best. At this point I have to believe that the problem is somewhere in the suspension. The car has been lowered (euro) & corner balanced by a reputable shop with 23/29 TBs and Bilstein greens (HD). The front struts/shocks were replaced 20k miles ago and the car currently has 38k miles. There is a local shop in town with some scales, so I will stop by and get the corner balance checked.
I'd appreciate any first hand knowledge with any florida based race shops that Rennlisters have used with respect to brake and suspension setups. I'm already thinking about updating the front suspension while there in there (idiot).
Who said F-cars are expensive?
Regards, Dave
I'd appreciate any first hand knowledge with any florida based race shops that Rennlisters have used with respect to brake and suspension setups. I'm already thinking about updating the front suspension while there in there (idiot).
Who said F-cars are expensive?
Regards, Dave
#75
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Dickyboy
Hi Dave, quick note regards your picture, what is the part no. or name for the front valance you've put on. It looks fantastic. Where could I find that and at what cost?
Thanks for any help
Rich
Thanks for any help
Rich
http://www.americaninternationalraci...alleryid=26007
http://www.betterbodiesmotorsport.co...s1/935tfs.html