stu.p

hi
over the festive period my car developed the dreaded "flut flut flut" noise on tick over from especially underneath the car and when switching the engine off sometimes could be heard just before the engine came to a halt!!..i had been running the car now at 1 bar boost(peaking slightly above then resting at 1 bar) and with a cat bypass pipe fitted..
after checking the usual,when i removed the lower cam cover i found 2-off in total head bolts with part of the broken stud in them which have snapped and fell into the cover,,i will obviously have to now remove the engine to start with to start a rebuild,,i have always done all my own maintenance on my cars but was looking for to start with the procedures for removing the engine on this model,,car is a 1992 3.3 turbo with 94,000 miles on the clock and was bloody pulling like a train before and even now!!!
advice from yous more than welcome,,cheers!!

125shifter

I found Wayne Demsey's books, 101 projects and 911 engine rebuilding, very helpfull. You should be able to find factory manuals on CD.

Removing the engine is pretty straight forward. Remove the intercooler, driveshafts, disconnect the shift linkage and all the hoses and wires between the engine and chassis. Then lower the engine and transmission out the bottom.

A930Rocket

Read the Pelican DIY article as well: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ine_drop-1.htm

stu.p

in the pelican article it leaves the gearbox/driveshafts in place and removes the engine only!,,should i??,think i will do a clutch while in there

kleinbbc2

I would pull the tranny with the engine together.

A930Rocket

Sorry, I didn't read the entire article. Definately pull the engine and trans together. I just unbolt the axles at the tranny side and pull them up and out of the way with a piece of wire. Don't forget to remove your accelerator linkage off the trans, unplug the speedo wires in the compartment in front of the rear seats, as well as the hex head bolt on the universal of the shifter (this is a lot easier than having to realign and adj the shifter rod to input shaft).

BrianKeithSmith

1. unhook battery
2. drain oil
3. disconnect shift linkage and wiring at the tunnel
4. disconnect fuel lines
5. disconnect harness
6. don't forget to disconnect the starter wire going to the starter, and the ground strap
7. after all oil is drained disconnect oil lines
8. disconnect axles at trans flange
9. remove sway bar
10. heater hoses - if you have them
11. support it with a jack, remove trans bolts (2 19mm) and then the 2 engine bolts (19mm as well), start lowering it down, checking for anything you've missed.

Like a930 says - drop it all together! You'll thank yourself later.

nathanUK '81 930 G50

I don't think you guys noticed he has a 964t. From what I have heard unlike the 911/930 you don't have to remove the transmission. I think I would try without but be very careful not to bend the input shaft.

carmad

Use a motorcycle jack, with some 3/4'' plywood to support the heat exchangers. Much more stable than a regular jack, unless you have the proper engine cradle. Works like a dream.Make sure you jack the car up enough to clear the rear.
Take your time.

Toby930

I'm also going to remove my engine from my 930 -86 (Euro) this spring. Valve adjustment and wastegate rebuild... I found a motorcycle jack at a local store here and I thought that it would be a good idea to use one of those. Was only like $90! It looked like it would fit the engine nice, but does it jack up to the right height? I've seen alot of pictures from 930 engine removals and you have to jack up the car quite high in the rear. Anyone know how high the motorcycle jack should jack up to?

Best Regards

/Toby

BrianKeithSmith

I tried a motorcycle jack once. Didn't work too well for me (maybe I didn't use it the best way it can be used), but I've had better luck with a standard jack with a furniture dolly.

Brian

im4duke

I used an ATV jack for my engine removal. Worked beautifully. Plywood or furniture dolly on top of it is a good idea to increase the platform size and add stability.

The jack actually lifts pretty high, but you do not need to fully extend it. My process involved disconnecting the wires and lines, then sliding the jack under to support the drivetrain, then fully disconnecting the drivetrain from the chassis, then jacking the car as high as necessary to clear the engine. Results in not needing to lift the heavy mass of engine any higher than necessary.

Step by Step
1. Disconnected battery, pulled fuel pump relays, drained oil, removed IC, removed rear bumper
2. Minimally jacked rear of car up using 2 floor jacks, 2 jack pad receivers and some cut 2x12's for additional height
3. Disconnected electrical, fuel, oil, and air lines
4. Disconnected shifter coupling and clutch and throttle lines
5. Removed rear wheels for access to axles and tranny
6. Removed rear sway bar
7. Disconnected axle shafts at tranny
8. Placed ATV jack under engine and tranny
9. Loosened tranny and engine mounts
10. Dropped engine & tranny 1 inch
11. Checked for additional connections, found some and disconnected
12. Dropped engine & tranny another inch
13. Cursed over missed vacuum lines on wastegate
14. Noticed that front of tranny was contacting center tunnel due to tilt of car, so raised front of tranny to clear
15. Lowered engine all the way down
16. Raised rear of car (much lighter now) to clear engine
17. Pulled straight out a couple of inches, to allow front of tranny to clear center tunnel
18. Lowered front of tranny all the way down
19. Pulled rest of the way out from car

stu.p

what books to yous recommend for the rebuild??,,,trying to get a c.d. copy of the workshop manual for a 964 turbo,any sources?

38D

A couple more things to disconnect:

Throttle cable (the hardest part of the job IMO)
Clutch slave cyl (just take the whole thing off and suspend)
Hose to power steering pump (hard to do without making a mess)

When you go to drop the engine, the front of the car should be on low jack stands or even on the ground (depends on how low your front splitter is). If it is on the ground, make sure to have blocks/chocks in place on the wheels (both directions). You may want to have a helper the first time, as balancing the engine on a jack is a bit of an art.

JasonAndreas

Adrian Streather's 964 book has a step-by-step with photos documenting the engine removal from a 964 Turbo.