Suspect air leak
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi guys,
Car idles at 1600rpm, rpm drops slowly when changing gears and car is unable to boost. Suspect there is an air leak in CIS the system. Are there any hoses in particular that I should look out for or any hose that is prone to leaks? How many hoses are there and where are they located? which one should I start with? Any easier way to detech an air leak?
Thanks guys... sorry for the multiple questions! car is an original 1988 turbo
Car idles at 1600rpm, rpm drops slowly when changing gears and car is unable to boost. Suspect there is an air leak in CIS the system. Are there any hoses in particular that I should look out for or any hose that is prone to leaks? How many hoses are there and where are they located? which one should I start with? Any easier way to detech an air leak?
Thanks guys... sorry for the multiple questions! car is an original 1988 turbo
#2
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
One way to deteact an air leak and/or vacuum leak is to *CAREFULLY* spray something like starter fluid around some suspect areas (obvious hose connections, manifold, etc.) while the car idles. If there is a leak, the idle will increase when the starter fluid hits the opening (leak). The stuff is *HIGHLY* flammable so use common sense. keep it off the paint work
Are you sure that the large I/C connections are seated properly: the connection at the compressor "up-pipe" and the connection at the actual intake manifold? There is a large red/orange O-ring that is easly torn. Also, if the I/C has been removed recently, sometimes it takes a bit of man-handling to get them seated again.
Also, can you be more specific when you say the "car is unable to boost"
Are you sure that the large I/C connections are seated properly: the connection at the compressor "up-pipe" and the connection at the actual intake manifold? There is a large red/orange O-ring that is easly torn. Also, if the I/C has been removed recently, sometimes it takes a bit of man-handling to get them seated again.
Also, can you be more specific when you say the "car is unable to boost"
#4
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: London, England
Posts: 1,977
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you're driving and try to boost do you hear a big 'whoosh' sound? Easiest thing is to check the large intercooler hose. Easily spotted. Mine was recently removed by garage, and the hose clip not tight so the hose worked loose. I tightened the clip (real tight) and that's it fixed now!
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Car has no power at 4000rpm, like a low compression NA car. Car should be very strong at 4000rpm with boost.. I suspect my wastegate diaphragm as I sometimes hit the over boost switch.. thanks.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Correction, Boost comes on, reaches peak at 4000rpm and car doesn't react like it should at peak boost. Some air must be by-passing the cis plunger plate. Is it difficult to trace. Probably remove intercooler and air box to do basic checks. probably tighten the major hoses.