38D

I actually have a used LM-1 for sale. I have since bought the LC-1 so I can keep it in the car and log A/Fs all the time. PM me if interested.

sand_man

One other thing, the clamp likes to fall off - the set screw on top of the clamp tends to come loose. What I do is use a large hose clamp to help secure the Innovate part to my Zork. Keeps it nice and tight.

911rudy

I tried to get some feedback on how you guys are running the wire from the sensor to the gage. I wired mine from the exhaust just after the turbo up through the heat sheild and then behind the center section tail light over to the left. I don't see a real neat way to run the probe wire to the cockpit and was wondering if any of you had already done it? Those big plugs on the end of the wires make holes take on a new meaning! I also would like to know how you guys are wiring the LM-1 gage so that it would be a permenate fixture. The manual says it should be on anytime the engine is running and just after start up. Can you run it to the accessory side of the ignition?
Rudy

A930Rocket

Waht happened to Brent or Brent 930 who had an adj WUR with a MSD rev control as a means to adjust it? I had a picture of it at one time. Was his design along the lines of what everyone is making now?

TrackDays247.com

He was the inspiration for Brian Leask's design - indeed Brian gives him credit for this.
This is the identical setup I have in hand - and will install soon.

sand_man

Yeah, I agree Rudy...those plugs are pretty big and would make for a decent headache when trying to thread the wire through the cockpit. Did you by chance look to see of the wiring could be un-done from one of the plugs? I know that in my Electromotive wiring, the wires can be safely removed from said connectors without having to cut them and re-splice. FWIW, I have run all of my Electromotive ignition wiring over the front engine tin (front as in near the fire wall) between the top of the tin and the engine compartment seal. I then ran the wires through the tranny tunnel where the reverse wires come through. Didn't have to drill a single hole.

As for a power source, it is true that the O2 sensor MUST have power whenever the engine is running. The sensor will burn up otherwise. I'm sure there are lot's of places for switched power inside the cockpit. Not sure about yours, but the cigarrette lighter in my car is switched...only on when the ignition is on.

911rudy

Thanks Sand-man, I appreciate the idea of the cigarette lighter. I am going to contact Innovative and see if there is a simple way to de-plug the ends.
Rudy

srf506

Don't know what kind of connector you've got, but Radio Shack or most god hobbyist electronics stores sell tool kits that let you remove the pins from the connector housing and then reinsert them after you've fed the wiring through your hole. Might check around to see if this will work for you.

911rudy

Thanks guys. I'll try radio shack tomorrow. I could also use it on the H-4 headlights I bought. I have the original pigtails and a new relay harness and would like to not solder them together.

Tom F

Would someone, please, explain the LM-1, LM-3, LC-1 thing? Thank you inadvance.

sand_man

You'll find everything you need to know here:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products.php
The LM-1 is Innovate's basic hand held AFR meter. The others are like accessories and/or permanent gauges and such.