Warm Up Regulator
#1
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I havent opened the old one up but I imagine the diaphragm has to be make of gold or platinum to justify the price
.
This pic isn't exactly the same as the one I replaced but close enough for show ahttps://rennlist.com/forums/editpost.php?do=editpost&p=2947274#
Increase Sizend tell.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
This pic isn't exactly the same as the one I replaced but close enough for show ahttps://rennlist.com/forums/editpost.php?do=editpost&p=2947274#
Increase Sizend tell.
Last edited by Cory M; 01-20-2007 at 12:21 PM.
#2
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I just sold a never-used 112 Euro WUR for $200. Sounds like someone got a great deal.
You can purchase rebuilt WURs ~$250 or have yours rebuilt for ~$175. Core charge is generally $100.
Boost is hard on these units, it's good to have a spare.
You can purchase rebuilt WURs ~$250 or have yours rebuilt for ~$175. Core charge is generally $100.
Boost is hard on these units, it's good to have a spare.
#4
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http://www.specialtauto.com/
what most likely broke on yours is the metal diaphram that controls the pressure in these things. it's about the size of a quarter and (i'm guessing) ~0.010" thick.
what most likely broke on yours is the metal diaphram that controls the pressure in these things. it's about the size of a quarter and (i'm guessing) ~0.010" thick.
#6
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I bought a 1989 Porsche 911 Turbo RUF conversion on March 28, my first Porsche. the distance from the dealer to my house is approximately 17 miles and the car backfired and died about 4 miles from the house. Yesterday, April 5th I was told that the diagnosis is complete and there is a faulty warmup fuel pressure regulator valve that had caused the backfiring, which in turn had made some hose come off. The cost of a rebuilt part: $600+, a new one: $854. I chose the new one with that price difference.
Given the information in this thread, I naturally want to keep the old part and have it rebuilt. Who rebuilds them? I see specialTauto sells them, how about the rebuilding?
Given the information in this thread, I naturally want to keep the old part and have it rebuilt. Who rebuilds them? I see specialTauto sells them, how about the rebuilding?
#7
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they sell adjustable ones new for $159 on http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/afpr_4500.htm
Does anyone know if they are any good??
Does anyone know if they are any good??
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#8
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That's a fuel pressure regulator on Paragon, not a warm up regulator. Two different animals.
Originally Posted by JBL930
they sell adjustable ones new for $159 on http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/afpr_4500.htm
Does anyone know if they are any good??
Does anyone know if they are any good??
#9
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You can get yours rebuilt and modified to be Fully adjustable from Leask Engineering for about $300. Considering a standard rebuild already costs $250, another $50 to make it fully adjustable makes sense.
He did mine and was able to tune cold/hot and boost pressure exact to spec. If he knows what mods you have, he can pre-tune if for you using gauges and such.
You can contact Brian at bleask@***.net and he'll send you some nice photos of the mods and full manual.
He did mine and was able to tune cold/hot and boost pressure exact to spec. If he knows what mods you have, he can pre-tune if for you using gauges and such.
You can contact Brian at bleask@***.net and he'll send you some nice photos of the mods and full manual.
#10
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I don't understand how they do stuff so cheep in the US, it cost £400 to get mine rebuilt, that's about $700!!!! And it had to go back again because it still wasn't right. Bosch have stopped making them too so you can't buy a new one apparently, if you lot have got spare ones your lucky
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Originally Posted by NSXTC
You can get yours rebuilt and modified to be Fully adjustable from Leask Engineering for about $300. Considering a standard rebuild already costs $250, another $50 to make it fully adjustable makes sense.
He did mine and was able to tune cold/hot and boost pressure exact to spec. If he knows what mods you have, he can pre-tune if for you using gauges and such.
You can contact Brian at bleask@***.net and he'll send you some nice photos of the mods and full manual.
He did mine and was able to tune cold/hot and boost pressure exact to spec. If he knows what mods you have, he can pre-tune if for you using gauges and such.
You can contact Brian at bleask@***.net and he'll send you some nice photos of the mods and full manual.
#13
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With the stock, you're at the mercy of the WUR and the wear & tear of the spring pressure plate. The WUR needs to have three states set. Cold pressure, hot pressure and boost pressure. These are set at the factory and will likely change with age.
The most important one is the boost pressure. You want to make sure you're at 12.5 AFR or so under full boost.
Brian was able to get mine exact:
During startup, AFR is 12.5, then after 20-30 sec, it's idling perfectly at 14.5.
During cruising, my AFR is 13.5
Full boost, it drops to 12 then quickly steadys out at 12.5
W/o a fully adj. WUR, there's no way a 20+ years old WUR can hold to those numbers. It's just good piece of mind.
Contact Brian and you'll get a crash course w/in 10 minutes.
The most important one is the boost pressure. You want to make sure you're at 12.5 AFR or so under full boost.
Brian was able to get mine exact:
During startup, AFR is 12.5, then after 20-30 sec, it's idling perfectly at 14.5.
During cruising, my AFR is 13.5
Full boost, it drops to 12 then quickly steadys out at 12.5
W/o a fully adj. WUR, there's no way a 20+ years old WUR can hold to those numbers. It's just good piece of mind.
Contact Brian and you'll get a crash course w/in 10 minutes.
#14
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Originally Posted by NSXTC
With the stock, you're at the mercy of the WUR and the wear & tear of the spring pressure plate. The WUR needs to have three states set. Cold pressure, hot pressure and boost pressure. These are set at the factory and will likely change with age.
The most important one is the boost pressure. You want to make sure you're at 12.5 AFR or so under full boost.
Brian was able to get mine exact:
During startup, AFR is 12.5, then after 20-30 sec, it's idling perfectly at 14.5.
During cruising, my AFR is 13.5
Full boost, it drops to 12 then quickly steadys out at 12.5
W/o a fully adj. WUR, there's no way a 20+ years old WUR can hold to those numbers. It's just good piece of mind.
Contact Brian and you'll get a crash course w/in 10 minutes.
The most important one is the boost pressure. You want to make sure you're at 12.5 AFR or so under full boost.
Brian was able to get mine exact:
During startup, AFR is 12.5, then after 20-30 sec, it's idling perfectly at 14.5.
During cruising, my AFR is 13.5
Full boost, it drops to 12 then quickly steadys out at 12.5
W/o a fully adj. WUR, there's no way a 20+ years old WUR can hold to those numbers. It's just good piece of mind.
Contact Brian and you'll get a crash course w/in 10 minutes.
#15
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Actually I believe the ones specialty auto sells are rebuilt ones not new. Maybe he (John) can get new ones too.
Brian did mine and it's nice.
Note, that you can get these things new for $500 (maybe less) at PAP Parts. ...they have great prices.
Brian did mine and it's nice.
Note, that you can get these things new for $500 (maybe less) at PAP Parts. ...they have great prices.