The case of the red-hot glowing header pipes...
09-13-2005, 04:17 PM
#17
Racer
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
lol.. that is a great pic
I've always wondered why people needed to wrap headers and ceramic coat this and that to preserve exhaust energy and reduce lag - it's so damn hot why would you need it any hotter!?!?
Then I remember my college thermodynamics..
can't quite make out the turbine.. still damn hot!
I've always wondered why people needed to wrap headers and ceramic coat this and that to preserve exhaust energy and reduce lag - it's so damn hot why would you need it any hotter!?!?
Then I remember my college thermodynamics..
can't quite make out the turbine.. still damn hot!
09-13-2005, 07:07 PM
#19
RL Technical Advisor
Originally Posted by jhunt@huntinter
There goes the anti-sieze
Use nickel-based anti-seize and you'll be fine.
09-13-2005, 07:55 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 7,568
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
3 Posts
You should be at 26 degrees total at 4k rpm for your timing. The vacuum line to the distributor should be pulled and plugged IIRC.
If your timing is retarded, you will also get red hot headers.
What about ignition timing. I have a basic strobe timing light. My car is an'87 and I have removed all of the smog crapola. What's the methodology for setting timing. Remove vacuum advance lines and rev to 4000RPM? What mark am I looking for?
If your timing is retarded, you will also get red hot headers.
Originally Posted by sand_man
What about ignition timing. I have a basic strobe timing light. My car is an'87 and I have removed all of the smog crapola. What's the methodology for setting timing. Remove vacuum advance lines and rev to 4000RPM? What mark am I looking for?
09-14-2005, 10:03 AM
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
Timing
Originally Posted by A930Rocket
You should be at 26 degrees total at 4k rpm for your timing. The vacuum line to the distributor should be pulled and plugged IIRC.
If your timing is retarded, you will also get red hot headers.
If your timing is retarded, you will also get red hot headers.
09-14-2005, 11:25 AM
#23
Drifting
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by sand_man
Yes, I read on the Pelican Parts BBS that the timing is checked at 4,000 RPM with vacuum advance/retard hoses pulled, but in the factory workshop manual, it specifies this technique for the Euro/ROW cars ONLY. For the USofA the timing is checked at about 1,000 +/- 50RPM!!! Anyone else have advice or procedure. My dizzy has the two vacuum lines.
09-14-2005, 02:10 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
...for a data point, my tach is within 100rpm of actual based on data points I took up to 4k rpm using innovate system. btw- I wouldn't worry about getting that accurate if you're opening throttle with hand, looking through rear window at tach and then looking down at pulley. I had a hard enough time sitting in car using pedal to get right on 2k, 3k, 4k to check against innovate.
...i hear ya on the vaccum lines. I accidentally checked mine last year at track with vac line on, then rechecked with it off and it didn't change.
...i hear ya on the vaccum lines. I accidentally checked mine last year at track with vac line on, then rechecked with it off and it didn't change.
09-14-2005, 03:10 PM
#25
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,980
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep, it was always cool to be sitting in the pits at Daytona and watch the turbos scream throgh the tri-oval at night with everything blazing orange under the bacend and then see a massive gas flare out the pipes on the overrun into turn 1. Of course you also didn't want to be the guy who had to change a blown turbo in a hurry either!
09-14-2005, 08:50 PM
#27
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 7,568
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
3 Posts
For initial timing you check it idle with the vacuum line on. For total timing you check it at 4000 rpm with the vacuum line only pulled and plugged.
For an 87 model, it's 10 +/- 2 degrees ATDC @ 1000 +/- 50 rpm (page 28-2 b), 26 +/- 4 degrees BTDC @ 4000 rpm, vacuum line disconnected (page 28 - 4 c).
For an 87 model, it's 10 +/- 2 degrees ATDC @ 1000 +/- 50 rpm (page 28-2 b), 26 +/- 4 degrees BTDC @ 4000 rpm, vacuum line disconnected (page 28 - 4 c).
Originally Posted by sand_man
Yes, I read on the Pelican Parts BBS that the timing is checked at 4,000 RPM with vacuum advance/retard hoses pulled, but in the factory workshop manual, it specifies this technique for the Euro/ROW cars ONLY. For the USofA the timing is checked at about 1,000 +/- 50RPM!!! Anyone else have advice or procedure. My dizzy has the two vacuum lines.
09-14-2005, 10:24 PM
#29
RL Technical Advisor
Originally Posted by jhunt@huntinter
This is why Steve can freely rob a bank. No more fingerprints.
