Shock replacement DIY?
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 14
Shock replacement DIY?
I need new shocks on my 930. I'd like do the Bilstein rebuild method where I pull the shocks and send to Bilstein for their cost-effective rebuild.
New to this car, is pulling shocks with the torsion bar suspension an easy DIY? Any web-based instructions anywhere?
Thanks,
John
New to this car, is pulling shocks with the torsion bar suspension an easy DIY? Any web-based instructions anywhere?
Thanks,
John
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 7,568
Likes: 10
From: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
If you are mechanically inclined, it's not too bad. An electric or air impact is good for the front and rear upper nut removal. Don't forget to support the control arm you are removing the shocks/struts.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Rancho Santa Margarita, California
John, this book is a great DIY resource: http://www.101projects.com/Porsche-101/index.htm
The rear is fairly easy. It is easy if you pull the intercooler and air filter assembly so that you can access the upper mount bolts. It can be done with these items intact but requires much more patience and is not recommended. Once you have learned how to removed the above items you will be able to R&R them in 15-20 minutes and would be helpful should you have a leaking oil pressure switch, thermostat 0-ring, want to adjust valves, or just check stuff out. The bottom bolts will require and impact wrench but a 2ft breaker bar will do just fine.
The front is more involved but not difficult. Complete removal of the strut will require removing the caliper and bleeding the brakes upon reinstallation. Special tools require/suggested: ball joint fork, 11mm brake line wrench, 10mm allen socket.
Get Wayne's book mentioned above( Borders, Barnes & Nobles usually have it or online at Amazon or Pelican) and that will take the mystery out of it. We can talk you through any troubles you run into.
The rear is fairly easy. It is easy if you pull the intercooler and air filter assembly so that you can access the upper mount bolts. It can be done with these items intact but requires much more patience and is not recommended. Once you have learned how to removed the above items you will be able to R&R them in 15-20 minutes and would be helpful should you have a leaking oil pressure switch, thermostat 0-ring, want to adjust valves, or just check stuff out. The bottom bolts will require and impact wrench but a 2ft breaker bar will do just fine.
The front is more involved but not difficult. Complete removal of the strut will require removing the caliper and bleeding the brakes upon reinstallation. Special tools require/suggested: ball joint fork, 11mm brake line wrench, 10mm allen socket.
Get Wayne's book mentioned above( Borders, Barnes & Nobles usually have it or online at Amazon or Pelican) and that will take the mystery out of it. We can talk you through any troubles you run into.
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,344
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From: Near Atlanta, Ga. Peachtree City
Jastx,
Be sure you understand that if you replace the shocks you will need to have the front end aligned. This is about $150 so you might want to have the same company do both. The rear is an easy DIY and does not affect the alignment, but SoCal is right in that the IC should be removed to access the top nuts on the shocks. Puting the IC back in, you must be careful not to pinch the rubber "O" ring in the neck of the IC. I did this and had some terrible starting and running problems. When I took it apart it was hard to see a small piece of the rubber had been pinched and was missing. This caused a large vacuum leak and caused all kinds of problems.
Don't get too frugal on things that will require pro adjustments later on. Go ahead and pay up front and have the right to bring it back if it is not right. There is nothing worse than doing it your self only to have it not work!
Good luck and you have a beauty of a car.
Rudy
Be sure you understand that if you replace the shocks you will need to have the front end aligned. This is about $150 so you might want to have the same company do both. The rear is an easy DIY and does not affect the alignment, but SoCal is right in that the IC should be removed to access the top nuts on the shocks. Puting the IC back in, you must be careful not to pinch the rubber "O" ring in the neck of the IC. I did this and had some terrible starting and running problems. When I took it apart it was hard to see a small piece of the rubber had been pinched and was missing. This caused a large vacuum leak and caused all kinds of problems.
Don't get too frugal on things that will require pro adjustments later on. Go ahead and pay up front and have the right to bring it back if it is not right. There is nothing worse than doing it your self only to have it not work!
Good luck and you have a beauty of a car.
Rudy
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Rancho Santa Margarita, California
Originally Posted by 911rudy
Jastx,
Be sure you understand that if you replace the shocks you will need to have the front end aligned.
Rudy
Be sure you understand that if you replace the shocks you will need to have the front end aligned.
Rudy
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Track Day
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
strut "top nut" removal
I'm trying to remove my strut in order to upgrade to a mono-ball camberplate. I have been unsuccessful in keeping the entire strut/shock body from rotating when I try to loosen the top nut on the strut using a breaker bar. Is this why you were recommending the use of an impact wrench to remove the nut? Should I then be able to manually hold the strut from rotating?
Thanks,
Greger
Thanks,
Greger
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Race Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,508
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From: England UK
When using an impact gun you will not need to hold anything. The hammer action undoes the nut/bolt. Just use short bursts of the trigger. Holding down the trigger may give time for things to turn if the nut/bolt is really tight.
Make sure you buy a gun strong enough to undo it.
Make sure you buy a gun strong enough to undo it.
