ENGINEERMAN

Thanks for the compliment on the 944 Turbo. It's all finished now by the way and I'll take some pictures of the completed (for the time being) project and attach them.

I really like the look of that Jet Hot Sterling on your parts. I'm half tempted to take the headers off on the Strosek and have them treated before I put the Ceramic coated turbo and Muffler back on. Is it a difficult project to remove them. I have the same heater boxes as you do Yasin and from looking at it the inner header nuts look like they coulde be difficult to reach. Did they come off easily!

Thanks!

PS: I want that garage lift!!!!! wow, is that nice!

slownrusty

Tom - To remove the headers took a few hours and I broke one of my Craftsman sockets in the process.

In my opinion the ONLY way to do this is:
1) Use a 1\2" impact gun
2) You need a swivel 13mm swivel socket
3) A long extension

The necessary adapted from 3/8" to 1/2"

Hope that helps!

Yasin

ENGINEERMAN

And you didn't snap off any of the studs in the head? Wow, I would be scared to try that method. It really worked for you? Did you soak the nuts with any penetrating oil first or heat them with a torch to loosen them up?

The more detail the better, cause I know what a chore it will be if I snap off any studs to remove them, and I DON"T want to go there!

Thanks!

SoFast

An impact gun set at a low setting makes a huge difference. The hammering action really allows the bolt to break free without breaking. Penetrating oil is a plus, but the impact gun makes the difference. Just dont go gung ho on the power settings or you are SOL. Nice and easy usually allows most bolts to break free. But you always want to soak any bolt that has age in penetrating oil for a while. Just keep going back and hitting it with oil applications some time before you plan on extracting the bolt. As well, the addition of heat helps with very stubborn bolts. With aluminum, you have to be very, very careful using this process. Use a propane torch is the safest for newbies, since the heat is not as extreme as a shop torch.

SoFast

BTW Yasin, the lines look very nice. Kudos.

slownrusty

Tom - Exactly what SoFast said! Penetrating oil (I would endorse PB Blaster if I was an NBA player!!) for many days in succession is the trick and the impact gun set at low, the hammering action is the key to success.

I never used any heat whatsoever simply put (again agreeing with SoFast) high heat and aluminum are not the best of friends.

When I re-assembled everything...I used Permatex Graphite Anti-Seize too.

Go for it!

Yasin

ENGINEERMAN

SoFast & Yasin, thanks. I buy in totally to the penetrating oil for many days technique (that's what I did when taking my hot turbo housing off to get it ceramic coated and it came apart easily) and I think I actually use the PB Blaster brand!

Now the next question, Yasin I have the same heater boxes as you (see photo) and I think that I could get an impact on the outside nuts using a flex head extension, but don't think that I could get at the inboard ones with anything but a box end wrench. Were you able to get at both outboard and inboard nuts with your impact? If so please tell me how.

Thanks!

Tom

SoFast

Try using an impact wrench. You do not always have to use an impact gun. The useful thing about the impact gun is that they are dial adjustable. I.E. - Power level from the unit. To use a wrench, you have to turn the PSI down at the regulator.

ENGINEERMAN

You are right, a small impact wrench might work, say a 3/8 drive. Yasin, is that what you used?

Sameer

It's funny to see how these threads start of and end of. Totally two different subjects. No worries guys, I'm enjoying it. Keep em' cumin in.