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How to start an early '80s 930?

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Old 01-11-2005 | 03:32 AM
  #1  
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jgrant
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From: Kelowna, BC, Canada
Default How to start an early '80s 930?

I have what may be a stupid question (inspired by another post), so please bear with me.

I have a 1982 935DP (basically a modded '82 930) that seems to be somewhat inconsistant with how it starts.

Some cold starts, it fires right up and idles like a champ until warm. Other cold starts, it under-idles and seems like it's going to die at any moment.

Warm starts, same thing. Some times it idles/runs just fine, others it doesn't.

Mind you, after it runs for 15-30 seconds, warm or cold, it settles down and seems to do OK. It's a LONG 30 seconds, though, when it's on the verge of dying. Any adjustment to the gas during the startup doesn't seem to have any positive effect.

I want to take it in and have it looked at (things like this "warm up regulator" thing I keep hearing about, oh joy $$$), but before I do, I was wondering if there might be something that I'm doing or not doing to start it properly?

Basically, I just put the clutch in, make sure it's out of gear, step on the brake, turn the key, and let it fire up, without touching the gas. Is this right? Is there anything else I should be doing? I used to have an old Charger that I had to put the gas to the floor before starting in order to engage the choke, etc., and was wondering if there was something similar that I have to do here.

Anyone have any suggestions or insights?


...jeff
Old 01-11-2005 | 10:29 AM
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Jeff,

Thats a good looking ride you got there.
Old 01-11-2005 | 11:43 AM
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Jeff -

Wish I had some advice for you however this is my first winter with my 930. Love your car though... do you have any other pics?

Regards
Old 01-11-2005 | 11:59 AM
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From: Carnation, Washington
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This is probably a faulty AAV (Auxilary Air Valve) . This controls the amount of air the engine gets at idle, it has a heating element which closes the valve in about 40seconds. If it sticks closed then the car will struggle to idle properly, especially when cold. Its really easy to replace this valve... and atually there is a new post with good pictures on the pelican board showing how it can be repaired.
It is unlikely that it is the WUR which is truly misnamed, the WUR is actually a fuel pressure regulator of sorts and if the car runs fine once warm then your WUR is probably OK.
Old 01-11-2005 | 02:52 PM
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I had a similar prob and it turned out to be a torn "O" ring in the intercooler inlet tube. I had a lot of advice on things to try and decided to try the easiest first. It was the "O" ring. $2.00!
I have a question for you. When your car was converted how did they get the right rear air vent in the fender with the thermostat just inside the wheel well? I have the vents but can't see how the right one fits with the oil thermo in the way.
Thanks and you have an awsome ride!
Rudy
Old 01-11-2005 | 05:02 PM
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Sameer: Thanks. I like it a lot.

Rob: Thanks, and I do... http://www.jeffgrant.com/935

D: Thanks for the heads up... I'll check that out.

Rudy: Thanks for the suggestion... I'll check that as well. As to the thermostat, some stuff has been re-arranged as part of the mods. For instance, the front air dam is almost ALL oil cooler. You should have seen the tech's eyes bulge out the first time he got it on the lift. He called his boss over and said (about 5 times) "that's all oil cooler. I've never seen such a monster, not even on track cars" The car takes just over 12 litres of oil, due to the size of the oil cooler and lines running back and forth. The placement of the thermostat was probably the *minor* issue with that, I think. That being said, I'll check for it's placement the next time I'm taking it out, and maybe post a pic of it. (We've got snow here right now, so it might be a while). Needless to say, you don't want to park up into a curb or else it's going to get pretty messy in a hurry!



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