18,000 miles of ownership
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Newton, MA
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I've enjoyed
, so far, uneventful 18k miles of driving over the past 2 years. The car/ engine has now 93,000 miles on the clock. Previous records were non-existent, yet since I'm the second owner, my conversations with the original owner indicated he had it serviced religiously 'according to the book' for the 75K miles he owned it.
my questions are:
1. if it ain't broke, do I fix anything? or, wait 'til something goes wrong.
2. should I have my valves adjusted, even though there's no noise?
3. should I change plug/ points, etc. even though they look OK?
4. do I fix that annoying drip from the left valve cover when hot parked?
5. do I switch to synthetic from the 20/50 dino?
6. I've changed oil/ filter only twice, has that been enough?
6. do I go looking for broken head studs? how would I know if they have changed already to better materials?
7. emission testing is this fall, will it pass? do I get a tune up even though it's running fine?
8. do the chains need tensioning? how would I know?
I haven't notice any degrading in performance since I've owned it. The only thing that's different is cold starts... not that good anymore. I used to be able to just turn the key... period, winter or summer. Now it seems I need to feather the pedal to get it into that elevated idle mode, then it settles back. Otherwise, after start up, rock solid idle at 900 rpm.
I guess I just haven't found a close enough wrench to trust, yet. Maybe you guys can help.
-G
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
my questions are:
1. if it ain't broke, do I fix anything? or, wait 'til something goes wrong.
2. should I have my valves adjusted, even though there's no noise?
3. should I change plug/ points, etc. even though they look OK?
4. do I fix that annoying drip from the left valve cover when hot parked?
5. do I switch to synthetic from the 20/50 dino?
6. I've changed oil/ filter only twice, has that been enough?
6. do I go looking for broken head studs? how would I know if they have changed already to better materials?
7. emission testing is this fall, will it pass? do I get a tune up even though it's running fine?
8. do the chains need tensioning? how would I know?
I haven't notice any degrading in performance since I've owned it. The only thing that's different is cold starts... not that good anymore. I used to be able to just turn the key... period, winter or summer. Now it seems I need to feather the pedal to get it into that elevated idle mode, then it settles back. Otherwise, after start up, rock solid idle at 900 rpm.
I guess I just haven't found a close enough wrench to trust, yet. Maybe you guys can help.
-G
#2
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Gino
I've enjoyed
, so far, uneventful 18k miles of driving over the past 2 years. The car/ engine has now 93,000 miles on the clock. Previous records were non-existent, yet since I'm the second owner, my conversations with the original owner indicated he had it serviced religiously 'according to the book' for the 75K miles he owned it.
my questions are:
1. if it ain't broke, do I fix anything? or, wait 'til something goes wrong.
2. should I have my valves adjusted, even though there's no noise?
3. should I change plug/ points, etc. even though they look OK?
4. do I fix that annoying drip from the left valve cover when hot parked?
5. do I switch to synthetic from the 20/50 dino?
6. I've changed oil/ filter only twice, has that been enough?
6. do I go looking for broken head studs? how would I know if they have changed already to better materials?
7. emission testing is this fall, will it pass? do I get a tune up even though it's running fine?
8. do the chains need tensioning? how would I know?
I haven't notice any degrading in performance since I've owned it. The only thing that's different is cold starts... not that good anymore. I used to be able to just turn the key... period, winter or summer. Now it seems I need to feather the pedal to get it into that elevated idle mode, then it settles back. Otherwise, after start up, rock solid idle at 900 rpm.
I guess I just haven't found a close enough wrench to trust, yet. Maybe you guys can help.
-G
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
my questions are:
1. if it ain't broke, do I fix anything? or, wait 'til something goes wrong.
2. should I have my valves adjusted, even though there's no noise?
3. should I change plug/ points, etc. even though they look OK?
4. do I fix that annoying drip from the left valve cover when hot parked?
5. do I switch to synthetic from the 20/50 dino?
6. I've changed oil/ filter only twice, has that been enough?
6. do I go looking for broken head studs? how would I know if they have changed already to better materials?
7. emission testing is this fall, will it pass? do I get a tune up even though it's running fine?
8. do the chains need tensioning? how would I know?
I haven't notice any degrading in performance since I've owned it. The only thing that's different is cold starts... not that good anymore. I used to be able to just turn the key... period, winter or summer. Now it seems I need to feather the pedal to get it into that elevated idle mode, then it settles back. Otherwise, after start up, rock solid idle at 900 rpm.
I guess I just haven't found a close enough wrench to trust, yet. Maybe you guys can help.
-G
I also believe in prophylactic maintanence i,e all fluids should be changed every so often,valves needs to be adjusted every 15,000 miles,oil needs to be changed every 3000 miles
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Hope that helps.
Yasir