JackOlsen

Thanks, Steve.

Ed, I would bet that it's more a case of me not paying attention than anything else.

emcon5

Regardless of which engine, you need to machine the second plug hole in the heads, so it is best done in conjunction with a rebuild. The machine shop will also make a hole for the second plug in the lower valve covers, and modify the chain box on the passenger side (clearance for lower plug on #4). The work adds an extra ~$400 to a valve job.

You will need to modify the engine tin on the front drivers side (clearance for lower plug on #3), and mod the engine tin for the second plug wires, and possibly address some clearance issues on the drivers side heater duct and engine tin below the distributor.

For a 3.2 you need a 964 distributor, a second coil, a signal splitter from the ignition. I would assume that you would need a custom chip with revised timing map, as a twin ignition setup won't need as much advance.

For a SC you need to change the crank gear to use the 964 based distributor conversion from Steve. It will end up looking like this:








Tom

Lomotpk

Emcon5,

If the above picture is current and correct you are missing a critical piece of twin-plugged-ness. The hold-downs on the bottom plugs. These are small metal pieces that fit under a valve-cover bolt and provide an arm that 'protects' the rubber spark boot and 'keeps it in place'

I didn't have these installed on mine and every couple of hundred miles I'd find a bottom plug out of socket, flopping around. Rocks, bumps small animals seem to cause the occasional pull.

2 cents

emcon5

I have the lower hold downs, but I haven't installed them yet. I didn't realize that the studs were too short to fit them. My plan is to swap out longer studs when I do my first valve adjustment. I just finished the rebuild last week, and the engine only has ~200 miles on it.

Do you have a picture of how yours look?

Thanks,

Tom