Looking to purchase my 1st 73 911T
04-25-2017, 10:44 AM
#16
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the 69-73T is a great long hood to drive the pants off. (E and S are pricey in the hands of collectors.)
The T has a resonable entry price point and you can modify it as you see fit.
The 69T is first year LWB and comes with a host of interesting one year only items which can hinder keeping the car "correct" if that is a concern. Deck lid, grill, strut tops, etc.
The 70T is the first year of vented discs on all the 911 models including the T which is nice.
The 71T might be the last year of the pretty metal rear grill before it was switched to black plastic.
The 72T has the funky oil door on passenger side if that is worth a few extra bucks to you. (conversation piece)
The 73T being the final year of the long hood makes it the most "refined" of the bunch and therefore a little more expensive. Personally I dislike the big rubber bumperettes, but that can be changed.
Of course they all have had engine changes during that period which is the most obvious.
Realistically, when shopping for a nice driver T, it really dosnt matter what year it is. It all comes down to the one you stumble upon and the overall condition.
Solid body is important, numbers matching is nice for value and originality. Service records are nice.
Look for original cars. Car that have not been messed with too much.
Alot of cars out there can have mis-matched parts. Nothing worse then trying to figure out what is right and what is wrong on the car in term of parts. Callipers, struts, lights, wiring etc.
You need to have it inspected by a good shop if you can.
These are old cars and you will discover lots of interesting things when you dig deep into them.
Having a car with all its correct and original parts is worth its weight in gold.
Nothing worse then having to hunt for all these things after the fact if making it "right" is on your priority list.
Even when buying a "hot rod" , the difference betwen a good example and a weak example is the parts maintained from the original donor or model year.
The T has a resonable entry price point and you can modify it as you see fit.
The 69T is first year LWB and comes with a host of interesting one year only items which can hinder keeping the car "correct" if that is a concern. Deck lid, grill, strut tops, etc.
The 70T is the first year of vented discs on all the 911 models including the T which is nice.
The 71T might be the last year of the pretty metal rear grill before it was switched to black plastic.
The 72T has the funky oil door on passenger side if that is worth a few extra bucks to you. (conversation piece)
The 73T being the final year of the long hood makes it the most "refined" of the bunch and therefore a little more expensive. Personally I dislike the big rubber bumperettes, but that can be changed.
Of course they all have had engine changes during that period which is the most obvious.
Realistically, when shopping for a nice driver T, it really dosnt matter what year it is. It all comes down to the one you stumble upon and the overall condition.
Solid body is important, numbers matching is nice for value and originality. Service records are nice.
Look for original cars. Car that have not been messed with too much.
Alot of cars out there can have mis-matched parts. Nothing worse then trying to figure out what is right and what is wrong on the car in term of parts. Callipers, struts, lights, wiring etc.
You need to have it inspected by a good shop if you can.
These are old cars and you will discover lots of interesting things when you dig deep into them.
Having a car with all its correct and original parts is worth its weight in gold.
Nothing worse then having to hunt for all these things after the fact if making it "right" is on your priority list.
Even when buying a "hot rod" , the difference betwen a good example and a weak example is the parts maintained from the original donor or model year.
04-25-2017, 03:49 PM
#17
WAF = Wife Acceptance Factor - again, the older they are the less likely they will want wind in their face, no A/C, a bumpy sports car like ride, etc.
I'd buy the car if it is at all near a decent price
I'd buy the car if it is at all near a decent price
04-25-2017, 04:00 PM
#18
ok, here are my alternative facts:
all 69's are 1st year LWB and comes with a host of interesting one year only items which can hinder finding parts for it
70 & 71 have the best trans. - the typ 911 with its wonderful road-racing shift pattern and light feel ('69 trans is also good) - keep it adjusted correctly (even if that seems bass ackward and you will have no problems)
The 72 has the best body style due to the funky oil door on passenger side which helps wt. distribution a bit and the polar moment more -- if somebody says otherwise point out the Porsche tried to move the oil tank back there for decades; BUT it has the less fun 915 tranny and is the worst year for them
a 73 has the horrible big rubber bumperettes, so kill them quick (I sold mine to some concoursmobile nut in NY for a few hundred bucks)
as per above CIS was used on the US '73.5 cars and it sucks
buy the car if not rusty and a decent price, and then modify it to your taste - the oil door can even be added but will be very spendy
My '73 has lighter Al suspension components, Carrera calipers, hollow torsion bars, the nicer old SWB green style gauges, a 3.2L with PMOs and decent hot street cams, a '75 trans. (despite trying to put a typ 911 on there for a while), FG bumpers and deck lid, and etc.
all 69's are 1st year LWB and comes with a host of interesting one year only items which can hinder finding parts for it
70 & 71 have the best trans. - the typ 911 with its wonderful road-racing shift pattern and light feel ('69 trans is also good) - keep it adjusted correctly (even if that seems bass ackward and you will have no problems)
The 72 has the best body style due to the funky oil door on passenger side which helps wt. distribution a bit and the polar moment more -- if somebody says otherwise point out the Porsche tried to move the oil tank back there for decades; BUT it has the less fun 915 tranny and is the worst year for them
a 73 has the horrible big rubber bumperettes, so kill them quick (I sold mine to some concoursmobile nut in NY for a few hundred bucks)
as per above CIS was used on the US '73.5 cars and it sucks
buy the car if not rusty and a decent price, and then modify it to your taste - the oil door can even be added but will be very spendy
My '73 has lighter Al suspension components, Carrera calipers, hollow torsion bars, the nicer old SWB green style gauges, a 3.2L with PMOs and decent hot street cams, a '75 trans. (despite trying to put a typ 911 on there for a while), FG bumpers and deck lid, and etc.
