78 SC !
"Upgraded chain tensioners" would suggest pressure-fed, but the oil line isn't there on the right side.
The top invoice seems to have "test and clean speedometer....(something)". Looks like that was 2016. Gotta wonder if the speedometer was working, and might cast some doubt on the mileage (although the car does look really clean). Too bad no photos of the underside.
Mark
The top invoice seems to have "test and clean speedometer....(something)". Looks like that was 2016. Gotta wonder if the speedometer was working, and might cast some doubt on the mileage (although the car does look really clean). Too bad no photos of the underside.
Mark
WOW Great eyes!...I started another thread about it but yes on the tensioners. Reid Vann from REIDVANN inspected the car .. he said it was in great shape... he also wondered about the tensioners as there are no tell tale lines going in.. he wondered if they were replaced with the old style ones? Would that make any sense? What do you make of the parts you said were not there?
Sher-
Sher-
"Upgraded chain tensioners" would suggest pressure-fed, but the oil line isn't there on the right side.
The top invoice seems to have "test and clean speedometer....(something)". Looks like that was 2016. Gotta wonder if the speedometer was working, and might cast some doubt on the mileage (although the car does look really clean). Too bad no photos of the underside.
Mark
The top invoice seems to have "test and clean speedometer....(something)". Looks like that was 2016. Gotta wonder if the speedometer was working, and might cast some doubt on the mileage (although the car does look really clean). Too bad no photos of the underside.
Mark
Sher-
Sher-
Many remove smog pump if they are in states which don't visibly inspect for passing emissions. No harm on doing so as long as it was done correctly and everything plugged accordingly. Lenses were most likely cracked and are NLA. Did PPI do a leak down compression test and what were the numbers? I think its odd that the car had 36K on the odometer but needed a glass out repaint and engine needed $10k work. Maybe I'm a little paranoid but you paid high water mark for that car. Best of luck.
My 78 SC........
You'd remove the smog pump to reduce the engine load from the pump. As to tensioner's. In 1980 there was a tensiioner upgrade that was not pressure fed. Along with the tensioner's the chain sprocket carriers where made wider and have two bronze bushings. These changes were made to relieve binding stress. These have been shown to be trouble free when compared to the earlier ones. You can add safeties such that if they do fail you won't eat the valves. Recommendation I've seen is to replace them as a preventative measure every 40k to 50K miles.
Terry
75 911S
Terry
75 911S
Sher-
Many remove smog pump if they are in states which don't visibly inspect for passing emissions. No harm on doing so as long as it was done correctly and everything plugged accordingly. Lenses were most likely cracked and are NLA. Did PPI do a leak down compression test and what were the numbers? I think its odd that the car had 36K on the odometer but needed a glass out repaint and engine needed $10k work. Maybe I'm a little paranoid but you paid high water mark for that car. Best of luck.
I never said it was a glass out repaint. What suggests that is what happened? As far as the leak down compression test.... I don't think so but I will see. Also I paid $52K. Have you ever heard of Reid Vann?
Sher-
My 78 SC........
I called and Reid did not do a compression test and said that the engine ran flawlessly. I don't know much about these cars (YET) but he seemed to be very very knowledgeable. At some point a little trust must be put forward. I am hoping for the best. As far as the price goes... I have been looking for a couple years and while I haven't seen and drivel a lot, I have seen and driven a few. I have seen similar with higher miles go for a little more than I paid. A quick search will turn up quite expensive example with much higher millage and obvious wear signs. Not for nothing but this car is exceptionally clean. While I take comfort in that, its more important to have good mechanicals. Since there was no rust and good paint and it runs and shifts so smooth... what should I now be worried about? Your car looks amazing BTW... lowering it really looks like the way to go... I also love the chrome/polished trim. Where would you go from here if you were me? I am wanting H4's but I need to know if Bosch and relays are the way to go and if so from where...also I am thinking of the porsche classic radio as I like the look and need the handsfree.
Sher-
Sher-
H4 is a bulb type and Bosch is a manufacturer of a lot of things. The H4 has two elements in one bulb. The conversion I think you are talking about includes the bulb change and also the housing assembly that gives a flush look to the headlights. The bulbs can be had in different wattage's.. The most common for this conversion is 55/60 which draws current comparable with the original sealed beam lights shipped on US cars at the time. You can add relays that will route current from the battery directly to the lights and not run 5 to 6 amps through the dimmer and headlight switch. If you increase the wattage to say 80/100 you should add the relays.
Terry
75 911S
Terry
75 911S
Sher,
you mentioned it was resprayed and expensive this is usually indicative of a windows out job. Sorry for the assumption. I am very peculiar when it comes to documentation of my vehicles and thorough PPI's when I purchase why I asked about the compression and leak down. To each his own, I wish you the best with your SC! PelicanParts 911 forum also has tons of information. Welcome to the club.
you mentioned it was resprayed and expensive this is usually indicative of a windows out job. Sorry for the assumption. I am very peculiar when it comes to documentation of my vehicles and thorough PPI's when I purchase why I asked about the compression and leak down. To each his own, I wish you the best with your SC! PelicanParts 911 forum also has tons of information. Welcome to the club.
Thanks for that... yeah I am kinda late in the game on do diligence this time around and I hope it won't cost me dearly. I am loving the car, to be sure... but boy are there sorry stories out there.
Sher-
Sher-
H4 is a bulb type and Bosch is a manufacturer of a lot of things. The H4 has two elements in one bulb. The conversion I think you are talking about includes the bulb change and also the housing assembly that gives a flush look to the headlights. The bulbs can be had in different wattage's.. The most common for this conversion is 55/60 which draws current comparable with the original sealed beam lights shipped on US cars at the time. You can add relays that will route current from the battery directly to the lights and not run 5 to 6 amps through the dimmer and headlight switch. If you increase the wattage to say 80/100 you should add the relays.
Terry
75 911S
Terry
75 911S
Also ... anyway to increase brightness to the instrument lights? Mine all work but they are somewhat dim even on max.
Sher-



