Jherriott

Hey all,

I have done some searches, but nothing really came up to answer some questions I have.

The engine is apart, and I have a bunch of stuff to get Yellow Zinc plated. The guy does Cad as well. but it is a matte finish, and it is hazardous, so I'm just going with zinc. Should be good enough as the car isn't seaworthy anyway

So my question to those that have done this. I assume you have to block off any regulator inlets and such, but what about the fuel rails? Do the openings all get sealed off? What's the best way to do this?

Thx in advance...

Jase.

Amber Gramps

Fuel rails are done as is with nothing blocked off. The ICV would be a no go in my book with the electronics and moving parts. I wouldn't even do the regulator, but I know things like spring plates get plated and it doesn't effect the rubber so perhaps you could put rubber stoppers over the inlets. I'd not do it at all because you can't see it once it's installed.

Jherriott

Thanks so much for the reply! I'll omit those items from the zinc bucket...

Jase.

Spyerx

and supposedly there is a 'heat' method and a 'non heat' method, and the 'non heat' method can be used for things like nylock nuts.

500

I did my fuel rails, nothing blocked off, and they turned out perfect. I did not do the regulators as I put new ones in anyway.

The biggest warning with fuel rails is not to media blast beforehand, as it is very hard to ensure all grit is removed. However, I doubt you would be even thinking about that as your rails have no corrosion etc. (which is where people may get tempted). My fuel rails looked much like yours... maybe a little more tarnished, but rust-free.

Jherriott

^ very nice!

Jherriott

Stuff has come back looking delicious. Thanks for the help guys!

Jase.

Amber Gramps

Very nice. When I put my fan strap back in I covered it in blue tape just to keep it from scratching. You have the luxury of having the engine out and apart so you may not have that issue. At any rate, it looks fantastic.

Jherriott

Thanks Gramps!

I wonder if I should twist your ear with your fuel injector upgrade while I am in pieces!

Jase.

Amber Gramps

No, it's a drug worse than coke. Do not get started...

cobalt

Why zinc instead of yellow Cad plating? In any case nothing like fresh parts. I usually send out all my old hardware as well when I do the larger parts.

Should look great when you're all done.

Amber Gramps

Yellow or rainbow Cad isn't allowed in many places because it's so toxic. The shops that can do in have to be grandfathered in and are way expensive. Most Porsche restoration shops think yellow zinc is good enough and maybe even better for things like fasteners that have to be and stay torqued. Nothing beats the look of Cad though.

cobalt

The place by me must be grandfathered. They usually don't charge much though. I find the Cad holds up better but both are good. Nothing worse than the paint some use to make it look like it has been plated.

Another thing that works wonders on cleaning old parts to look like new is a tumble cleaner. It doesn't protect but it is a great way to clean up old parts without blasting and removing material.

Nothing like a clean car with fresh hardware and parts.

Jherriott

The place I use is a hole in the wall

You would never know from the nondescript exterior that inside lurks a Dickensian labyrinth of steaming vats and dripping cauldrons oozing into the foundations.

The Cad is more expensive. But I don't really like the orange matt finish and it's added toxicity. I kind of like the flash of the shiny yellow zinc. Should hold up well enough for just a summer car.

Jase.