Shift coupler bushings
02-21-2021, 01:28 PM
#16
Team Owner
Got the bushing arm off- not easy, scored out the broken white plastic cup bushings, pressed in the new cups, but how in the world do you push the arm back onto the two metal *****? The front one I used a floor jack and it slipped up and on. The ball under the actual shifter would break if I put that kinda force on it. Anyone else have this issue? Any suggestions. I greased the ball too. At first I put grease in the cup but thought that could create an air bubble which would prohibit it slipping on. I’m at a loss.
Mine was easy and very straight forward. didn't need any jacks or anything.. wonder if we are ll talking about the same thing.
02-21-2021, 02:32 PM
#17
I ended up using a large pair of pliers under the linkage age and the shifter squeezed the ball into the cup. That seems to work. I don’t believe using a jack under the shifter cup is a good idea. The shifter tube looks very weak compared to the amount of force needed to slip the ball into the cup.
02-21-2021, 02:34 PM
#18
the plastic bushing can become elongated where the shaft goes into them , check that with a mirror as pulling the coupler out means realigning when you put back in . If all looks good your coupler is probably fine .
There is also a donut type one that supports the shift rod at the front and a cup that the shift rod fits into . Although I find these are often okay.
here are some before and after pics of mine.
if you do change these bushings be very careful and support the coupler properly or it will break. it is a cast piece.
There is also a donut type one that supports the shift rod at the front and a cup that the shift rod fits into . Although I find these are often okay.
here are some before and after pics of mine.
if you do change these bushings be very careful and support the coupler properly or it will break. it is a cast piece.
02-21-2021, 08:34 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
Those bushings in the photo above I have found to bind and not allow the coupler to flex in all directions. Those were in my 1970 coupe and the coupler was all bound up.
I would recommend using the factory parts which do work correctly. Or use a Stomski type coupler.
I would recommend using the factory parts which do work correctly. Or use a Stomski type coupler.
