I have a 1985 911 930, slant nose porsche i have been offered a motor...997 twin turbo off a 2008 porsche, my question is ...would it be possible to fit this in the engine compartment of my vehicle....thanks in advance for any advice....joel

 

Short answer is yes, but the correct answer is no. Look at the bisimoto car. It's got a twin-turbo, water cooled, 2,7 from a Boxster. It's insane...and as much as I like Bisi personally, (he's about two blocks from where I am sitting right now) the car is not "correct" in any way shape manner or form.

Water cooled engines DO NOT belong in air cooled tubs. PERIOD.

Besides,...(well is it a 911 or a 930) your tub, no matter what, even with the slant, is far too valuable to hack up. ....this coming from a guy that has come very close to taking a grinder to his own car.

 

...thank you for your comment, i will keep my car as it is and maybe find some light method of improving the performance....joel

 

At this last Cal Fest of Speed I did the "Autocross Experience". After a couple laps the instructor pushed me to push the car telling me to stay on the gas much deeper into the corners. Once I demonstrated that I really did have 930 brakes and a 2600# car they wanted to know just how well prepared the car was for punishment. It was clear very quickly that I was the weak point. I was no where near ready to do what the car was willing to do. I took the long sweeping right hand turn at twice the speed I would let myself take it on the street. Lap after lap after lap I was exhausted and the instructor was grinning from ear to ear. While other cars got two or three laps I got dozens. LOLzzz. I don't even want to know what the instructor would have done given a shot behind the wheel. Good times.

 

While the SC's do not have a DME chip that can be upgraded, you can update / upgrade the CDI and warm up regulator (WUR) to electronic units that are programmable.

I am doing a restomod on my '80 911 SC and am looking to replace both original units that are now nearly 40 years old. In my research I stumbled across a company in the UK--Classic Retrofit that makes a programmable CDI unit for a little more than the cost of a rebuilt CDI. I had a long conversation with the US agent--Loren Beggs, at 911 Design in SOCAL. We talked at length on how a programmable CDI unit allows for a "tuneable" timing map--and how he has been able to increase horsepower and torque on his '76 911 by using one. While he has not yet "played" with one of the programmable WURs, he is excited about the potential it provides in conjunction with the programmable CDI--essentially giving you "tuneable" timing and fueling maps.

I have found a couple of companies that make a programmable WUR, but have not decided on which one to go with. Once I get a little further I will discuss this with 911 Design for their input, since I plan on taking my 911 there after installation of the new CDI+ and WUR and have Loren tune them on the dyno.


Depending on where you are located, I suggest visiting or calling Loren at 911 Design and see what he thinks you can get out of a new CDI+ for your '83. Contact info is at: nine11design.com.

I have no affiliation with any of the products or companies listed, I am just trying to update and upgrade my 911 and would be interested in any experience other 911 owners have had with programmable CDI's and WUR's.

 

My view of CIS is you will want to replace the whole thing with either carbs or EFI and that will usually mean cam changes too. Your local or state pollution laws may limit what you can do.

Worse for your wallet, the SC heads may need some flow work on them, whereas the 3.2L heads "flow real well right out of the box" to quote a very experienced race-car machinist and engine builder.

 

Richard, iceman, r911, amber lamps can you summarize your recommendations for a non-track guy non-wrencher with a very good condition bone stock '87 911 Coupe, 108,000 miles (winner of a few local people choice shows), no mechanical or cosmetic issues, given a clean bill of health by experienced Porsche mechanic, driven 3.000 miles a year, in pursuit of a more power(for example,25 HP0, a bit tighter shifting, a bit tighter handling, a bit more sound and no cosmetic changes, I have many ideas but not the expertise of you guys, I did not buy the car for an investment

 

^ Aww, I didn't make the "A" list.

Suspension suggestions:
Bilstein HD shocks or sport shocks if you are upgrading your torsion bars.
Torsion bar upgrades (I am probably going with 21/27 with HD shocks front/sport shocks rear)
Turbo tie rods
shifter bushings if worn, possibly short shifter kit
If your car is lowered, bump steer kit
Alignment, and tires tires TIRES to go faster in the corners

At 108,000 miles you might have some other worn bushings as well -- do them "while you're in there".

 

First, replace your rubber brake hoses with new rubber ones from the dealer.
2nd, check the date codes on your tires.

Now, go to Chuck Moreland's web site (Elephant Racing) and look at his suspension calculator; decide where you fit on it and make those changes. You'll need new bushings, and will soon need new shocks or need to have them rebuilt. Other things will also improve feel and performance, as they increase NVH

I'd try hard to lighten the car, esp. at the extreme rear (bumper).

For the motor, Steve Wong chip and maybe some different exhaust, depending on your pollution regs. and budget. You -may- be able to add 25 hp, but I am doubtful w/o serious engine mods (tho every aftermarket parts seller will promise you 25 hp).

Buy the 3? (not sure re your MY) bushings that fit various spots on the shift linkage; pull the shifter out and rebuild it.

3.000 makes me think you are in Europe? or was it a typo?

 

Bilstein HD's
Turbo Tierods, Lemforder ONLY!!!!
Spring Plate Bushings, Elephant only
Sway Bar Bushings, Elephant or Porsche

Beyond that it's all a slippery slope. You can do bump steer and lower it. You can do the strut brace.

Once you move into playing with Torsion Bars and front bushings you really have to be committed to making big investments to align. Well, I guess for the average guy just swapping spring plate bushings left to right can cost hundreds of dollars to get it realigned. I solved that problem by making my own string jig, but man, if I had to take it in every time I played with my camber and ride height I'd go broke.....

 

thank you everyone and apologies to CAporsche for my lapse. I like all of these suggestions, I am interested in the exhaust end (pun?) of things, so SSI? Dansk sport muffler 2 into 1 ? I said car is bone stock but it has a FVD Brom cat bypass so I lied... but trust me nothing else except Zimmerman drilled rotors, honest. I am not in EU but I have some winter, the 3,000 miles a year is accurate perhaps 4,000 I Have another P-car it gets to drive too so I drive often, and the driving is back roads for curves, turnpike to get up to speed. and I understand the importance of tires, I have Goodyear Eagle F1, 3 years old, 10,000 miles

 

Tires - the single biggest difference you can make. And I don't mean bigger. I mean better. My own preference is Michelin

Richard Newton

 

^ He has Goodyear Eagle F1 -- looks pretty aggressive to me, but I've never tried them.

 

I've run the "back of the envelope" numbers on improving my '74, and by the time I get the suspension upgraded, the trans upgraded (LSD), a good seat, harness and guide bar, and a mild warming over of the engine I always come out at $15k minimum of "improvements".... which is a wash with selling the '74 and buying a C2.... And yes, I do run at the track. A lot. I've never seen a way to out think the engineers back in the mother country....

 

Well, if you love the car and have $15k....

There are a lot of faster, newer cars I can buy. The emotional power of an old school Porsche outweighs, for me, the allure of "speed for money". I'd rather take what the Germans did really well and tweak it to make it mine. It's the way I buy art, music, my home, everything. Not a calculation about real world value. Just my two cents.