Words of wisdom?
10-24-2003, 06:31 PM
#1
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Words of wisdom?
Hi all,
I'm going to take a look at this car tomorrow:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ory=10156&rd=1
Anything I should watch out for?
I've read most if not all the literature, and wasn't really looking for an early one, but I kinda liked the look of that one. My biggest worry is that I'm descending into the pre galvanized years. Any advice on how to avoid (hidden) rust problems would be appreciated.
Stefan
I'm going to take a look at this car tomorrow:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ory=10156&rd=1
Anything I should watch out for?
I've read most if not all the literature, and wasn't really looking for an early one, but I kinda liked the look of that one. My biggest worry is that I'm descending into the pre galvanized years. Any advice on how to avoid (hidden) rust problems would be appreciated.
Stefan
10-24-2003, 07:12 PM
#2
Some common areas to look at for rust and repairs would be the lower B pillar section, corners of the windshield, corners of the rear windows, the part of the body under where the windshield wipers extend from the car, all lower valances, where the front fender meets the front valance on each side of the car, heat exchangers, exhaust sytem, lower parts of doors, door jams, door hinge area, oil lines running to the front of the car, etc.
If the car has been repainted, insure it's a quality job and not a cheap one covering up repairs. Who did the repaint? How much was spent on repainting the car?
Check under carpets for dampness indicating the glass/seals are leaking somewhere. Both front and rear carpets and around rear seating.
Cars of this vintage can be great fun, but insure that all the normal used car items are checked (brakes, clutch, electrical accessories, tires, interior trim, A/C if equiped). Car should also be checked for aging rubber components such as oil hoses and body seals.
Good luck!
Jay
90 964
If the car has been repainted, insure it's a quality job and not a cheap one covering up repairs. Who did the repaint? How much was spent on repainting the car?
Check under carpets for dampness indicating the glass/seals are leaking somewhere. Both front and rear carpets and around rear seating.
Cars of this vintage can be great fun, but insure that all the normal used car items are checked (brakes, clutch, electrical accessories, tires, interior trim, A/C if equiped). Car should also be checked for aging rubber components such as oil hoses and body seals.
Good luck!
Jay
90 964
10-24-2003, 07:24 PM
#3
Race Car
Some of it is galvanized, just not all.
Check all of the suspension points, and lower doors. Check the battery boxes and all the way down to the forward front suspension mounting points. Check for cracks around the jacking points. Check the base of the A pillars and all around the front and rear glass. Also, check as much as you can of the floorpan.
There is certainly rust in there, it's just a matter of how much you're able to find.
Also, don't believe any excuses the owner gives you about the transaxle. 915's are tricky, if they haven't been carefully looked after. If there are danger signs -- like it's difficult to downshift into first while the car is rolling forward, or the first-second shift is cunchy -- be skeptical that it's just a little thing that the ower didn't get around to fixing.
If you like it, definitely get a pre-purchase inspection from a local shop. Have them re-check everything you looked at, as well as giving their own evaluation of the transaxle and all the suspension componenets (shocks, bushings, etc.). Also have them check for any snapped head studs, which can be a hard-to-detect problem on SC motors that can cost you at least a top end rebuild down the line.
If you get it, leave another post, and we can give you some sources for door-skins to replace that funky black-and-white stuff.
Check all of the suspension points, and lower doors. Check the battery boxes and all the way down to the forward front suspension mounting points. Check for cracks around the jacking points. Check the base of the A pillars and all around the front and rear glass. Also, check as much as you can of the floorpan.
There is certainly rust in there, it's just a matter of how much you're able to find.
Also, don't believe any excuses the owner gives you about the transaxle. 915's are tricky, if they haven't been carefully looked after. If there are danger signs -- like it's difficult to downshift into first while the car is rolling forward, or the first-second shift is cunchy -- be skeptical that it's just a little thing that the ower didn't get around to fixing.
If you like it, definitely get a pre-purchase inspection from a local shop. Have them re-check everything you looked at, as well as giving their own evaluation of the transaxle and all the suspension componenets (shocks, bushings, etc.). Also have them check for any snapped head studs, which can be a hard-to-detect problem on SC motors that can cost you at least a top end rebuild down the line.
If you get it, leave another post, and we can give you some sources for door-skins to replace that funky black-and-white stuff.
10-24-2003, 09:07 PM
#4
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Do those belts look funny, or is it just me?
Get a PPI, and have them remove the lower valve covers to check for broken head studs. Check the engine type stamp and S/N stamp at the base of the fan on the right side, the type should be 930/16, and the number should be 64Dxxxx, where xxxx it the sequential number.
If it checks out, it looks like a nice car.
Tom
Get a PPI, and have them remove the lower valve covers to check for broken head studs. Check the engine type stamp and S/N stamp at the base of the fan on the right side, the type should be 930/16, and the number should be 64Dxxxx, where xxxx it the sequential number.
If it checks out, it looks like a nice car.
Tom
10-24-2003, 10:09 PM
#5
... Looks like the passenger side heat exchanger is rusted through. There is some oil around on that motor... Might be worth investigating. Could be nothing, could be something...
Headliner might be very dirty/worn or in need of replacement. Brake pedal rubber is very worn. Typical stuff for a 28 yr old car...
Headliner might be very dirty/worn or in need of replacement. Brake pedal rubber is very worn. Typical stuff for a 28 yr old car...
10-24-2003, 10:27 PM
#6
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Originally posted by JackOlsen
Also have them check for any snapped head studs, which can be a hard-to-detect problem on SC motors that can cost you at least a top end rebuild down the line.
Also have them check for any snapped head studs, which can be a hard-to-detect problem on SC motors that can cost you at least a top end rebuild down the line.
But only if the mechanic doing the PPI removes the valve covers.
If head studs are broken, it will be readily apparent.
An inspection that does not address this important issue is incomplete to say the least.
If inspection does reveal broken stud(s), it's not the end of the world for an otherwise decent car. You have to weigh *all* the factors that determine the vehicle's condition.
As I have said here before, select the shop/mechanic that does the inspection with great care. Otherwise you're wasting time and money.
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10-25-2003, 06:12 AM
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I'm a new guy here and I'm about to buy a 1975 911S. It's been overhauled and has a great paint job. I made arangements to take it in for a PPI but I couldn't get it started yesterday, a chilly morning, probably about 40 deg. It backfired and flooded. It could be the cold start injector or thermo-time switch. I'm still really interested in the car but I have to be able to drive it, if you get my drift.
10-25-2003, 05:40 PM
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Well, thanks for all the great advice.
Decided against it. Too much rust for my taste. Bottom of both doors was no good, whith bubbles showing on the outside. The frame under the left jack point didn't look healthy and both mounting points for rear torsion bars were pretty much gone.
Ah well - next!
Stef
Decided against it. Too much rust for my taste. Bottom of both doors was no good, whith bubbles showing on the outside. The frame under the left jack point didn't look healthy and both mounting points for rear torsion bars were pretty much gone.
Ah well - next!
Stef
10-25-2003, 05:43 PM
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Warren, it could also be the sensor plate rest position. There is a cheapie paper-clip type thing that holds the sensor plate at the correct height at idle. I've had two break on me. Causes massive flooding below 2500 RPM. Finally resolved... a local shop gave me a clip from an Audi CIS system that was the same size, but much beefier. A simple check: Remove the air cleaner and look inside the airbox. Check the condition of the paper clip, if there still is one.
Doug
75 911S
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10-27-2003, 11:24 AM
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Stef,
Good decision. When they just don't feel right there is no sense in jumping in and regretting it. Too many good ones out there right now, and at great prices too.
Good luck,
Tom
Good decision. When they just don't feel right there is no sense in jumping in and regretting it. Too many good ones out there right now, and at great prices too.
Good luck,
Tom
10-27-2003, 11:45 AM
#14
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i agree with tom, you made the right decision to pass on this one.
its better to spend the money now, and get the best one you can find/afford, then to spend more money later in repairs. most people get caught in this illusion, especially with rust, and it haunts them in the long run, especially in the check book.
its better to spend the money now, and get the best one you can find/afford, then to spend more money later in repairs. most people get caught in this illusion, especially with rust, and it haunts them in the long run, especially in the check book.
