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1970 911E w 2.7 - Great Car or Timebomb / Money Pit?
Hey all,
Looking to pull the trigger on a 1970 911 E with a 1974 2.7 (Rebuilt at some point in the past with Timeserts, "proper" studs, etc.) and a rebuilt 901 (typ 911) gearbox with 0 mileage.
I currently drive an '11 RS - and this would be my first foray into the air-cooled realm. The dream is a '73 RS but the reality doesn't quite support the price.
This car was built as a track-car. It has a full cage, 5-points and approved seats. It has very little in terms of interior, perspex windows (except DS and Windshield) and a proper FIA approved tank (front pan recently rebuilt).
Rust is minimal if surface only (did a thorough inspection). Looks like a bit of a leak coming from the rack, and the motor definitely leaks from a bazillion places (as expected on a 2.7 from what I understand).
I'm thinking of buying the car in March pending a list of things to be finished (small details, like oil-return pipes, windshield replace, proper wheels, etc.) and then driving it from SF to LA, Vegas, Grand Canyon and then Up route 66 to Toronto. This is a 2800 mile trip. The car is currently under the care of a reputable 356 / 911 shop - it's been sitting for a few years.
My questions:
- Is this a really stupid idea?
- The motor is the big mystery. Will a leakdown / compression test reveal any unknown story re: the 2.7?
- Anything else I should be considerate of?
This will be a long (and rewarding drive) and I'd like to avoid a breakdown at the 100 mile mark.
Future state of this car is TBD outside of driving it as she was designed!
Im not sure I would want to take a long nose track car and do a long trip across USA and into canada.
I would most likely want to make it more street friendly first, hence a project.
I love the idea however.
If you do it without a chase truck and trailer behind you, bring tools and spares!
Also, what would recommend to make it more street friendly? I've driven it around the shat roads in d/t SF and I didn't feel like it was anymore "thrashy" then the RS.
Looking to pull the trigger on a 1970 911 E with a 1974 2.7 (Rebuilt at some point in the past with Timeserts, "proper" studs, etc.) and a rebuilt 901 (typ 911) gearbox with 0 mileage.
I currently drive an '11 RS - and this would be my first foray into the air-cooled realm. The dream is a '73 RS but the reality doesn't quite support the price.
This car was built as a track-car. It has a full cage, 5-points and approved seats. It has very little in terms of interior, perspex windows (except DS and Windshield) and a proper FIA approved tank (front pan recently rebuilt).
Rust is minimal if surface only (did a thorough inspection). Looks like a bit of a leak coming from the rack, and the motor definitely leaks from a bazillion places (as expected on a 2.7 from what I understand).
I'm thinking of buying the car in March pending a list of things to be finished (small details, like oil-return pipes, windshield replace, proper wheels, etc.) and then driving it from SF to LA, Vegas, Grand Canyon and then Up route 66 to Toronto. This is a 2800 mile trip. The car is currently under the care of a reputable 356 / 911 shop - it's been sitting for a few years.
My questions:
- Is this a really stupid idea?
- The motor is the big mystery. Will a leakdown / compression test reveal any unknown story re: the 2.7?
- Anything else I should be considerate of?
This will be a long (and rewarding drive) and I'd like to avoid a breakdown at the 100 mile mark.
Future state of this car is TBD outside of driving it as she was designed!
Leaking from the rack? These cars don't have power steering, so might be something else leaking onto the rack. Not power steering fluid
My cars sole purpose is long road trips....granted, I've not done more than 1,600 miles at once. It would be nice to have a few miles under your belt before you headed out into the wilderness. If it's in SF, you've got all kinds of shops that could rescue you if you had trouble. Heck, once into LA, there are dozens. If it's gonna break, it's gonna do it right away. Have the shop be extra **** about the PPI and put together a support network before you head out. Heck, I could cover you from the Cajon Pass to Vegas.
No, a magnesium case doesn't leak if it's assembled correctly, and the proper machining was done during the rebuild. (The highest mileage of one of my customer cars I saw until it was in the 150-160K range, and all was well.)
My perspective would be that if you're going backward from the most modern 911, that you'll be sorely disappointed in what a "track" car is on the street when pounding out the miles.
Consider also, that what might have been passable for safety/cage design in a prior lifetime has likely been completely re-thought today. Specifically, no one uses 5-point belts. At least not males.......
First - If it has a full cage it's unsafe for street driving - unless you wear a helmet.
Next - A lot depends on how old you are. I would have done it (and did it) when I was 25 years old. Today I can't even imagine such a trip in a track car.
Finally - You're buying into a money pit. Porsches are a lot like buying a boat. Especially the 30-foot ones with a teak deck. It just never stops.
I would like to second Richard Neetons assertions , if in your twenties or even thirties go for it any older I wouldn't't recommend it..
Did it myself twice (in Porsches I built and had worked on extensively )solo in my early to mid thirties had a ball , now twenty years on no way Jose..
If you have yet to get your feet wet with air cooled and haven't a clue as to what tools and
parts / spares you may need , I would suggest maybe a shorter initial jaunt than a trial by fire cross country run...it may be your last.
Bert
eh, I picked up my 993TT in california as my first 911, and within 5 hours was on my way cross country to NJ. Car handled everything from -5 degrees crossing Albuquerque in the snow to 85 degrees in arizona to route 95 in DC in rush hour.
The older cars are much simpler. If you have any mechanical skill, a few tools, and some spares, I think you'd be just fine.
A '70 911E is a $125-$150K car, so backing out a $100K restoration, the body shell and VIN on the car are worth $30K+
A properly rebuilt 2.7 is a fine engine, but lack of a numbers-matiching engine will knock the car down $30K, at least, and finding a period correct E motor will not be easy or cheap.
That said, you can have a really cool street rod.
That said, taking a totally unproven, 45 year old bitsa on a 2,800 mile trip is a fools errand to say the least.
If the price is right, buy the car, but spend the $1K to have it shipped to your house.... the extra $1K is **** money in the overall scheme of things.