Were the first Porsches galvanized body shells too
09-07-2015, 04:29 PM
#1
Were the first Porsches galvanized body shells too
I doubt they were but just curious if they used aluminum at all for some parts in the early days or any galvanizing for body panels.
Last edited by stratocaster69; 09-07-2015 at 05:05 PM.
09-07-2015, 06:46 PM
#2
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
There were several versions of the 356 that came dressed in aluminum... But for the 911 the main body component was steel ~ which was half galvanized for a period up till 1976. Then completely galvanized after that.
09-07-2015, 07:14 PM
#3
09-17-2015, 10:15 AM
#5
Rennlist Member
I restored a 71E in 1977 it was a complete rust bucket not sure what was galvanized everything including the torsion tube was rotten in only 6 years.
09-17-2015, 04:53 PM
#6
Body Galvanizing in Porsche 911
Thyssen steel = steel with Zinc layers on both sides; thickness of the Zinc layers varied from 10 um to 20 um, depending on exposure conditions (Frere, p. 201)
1970 – Galvanized steel (not Thyssen type) used in floor pan and wheel arches (Bob White in Pano V: 142); the “entire platform, including the floor, the longitudinal members, the wheel arches and the seat pans were galvanized.” (Boschen & Barth, p. 124)
1971 models – had galvanized steel in areas particularly exposed to rust (Frere, p. 201)
For MY 70-71, only the floor pan was galvanized, and only in the Reuter built cars. This information can be found in the factory workshop manual, where serial number ranges of cars with and without galvanized floors can be found. – Scott Clark
1972-1973 – Thyssen steel use began (Bob White in Pano V: 142)
1973 – Thyssen steel: rocker panels, inner rocker panels, floor pans, & some other parts (Chuck Stoddard in Pano V: 142)
1975 – Thyssen steel: entire body treated (Bob White & Chuck Stoddard {began in Feb. ’75 production for US cars; earlier for Euro cars – had trouble with paint} in Pano V: 142, 192)
1976 models – had Thyssen steel in entire body except roof (Frere, p. 201)
1977 models – on – had Thyssen steel in entire body (Frere, p. 201); an “important step forward was the use of zinc-coated sheet steel for the manufacture of the entire body structure (except for the coupe’s roof on early production cars). Coated on both sides, this made the structure virtually immune against the formation of rust….” (Boschen & Barth, p. 143)
The Zinc steel added 22 lbs. to the weight of the body structure (Frere, p. 202)
Pano = Panorama volume: page number
Frere = Frere, Paul. 1997. PORSCHE 911 STORY. 6th ed., Patrick Stephens Ltd. Newbury Park, CA.
Boschen & Barth = Boschen, Lothar and Jurgen Barth. 1978. THE PORSCHE BOOK: A DEFINITIVE ILLUSTRATED HISTORY. Argo Books.
Note: the Panorama and Frere comments can be harmonized since most cars for one model year are constructed in the previous chronological year
Rust Treatment
1. Use a wire brush on a drill rather than sand paper. Get ALL the rust removed first. Sand blasting would be better if the area was more accessible, but I don't think that it is.
2. Clean the area with a good prepaint solvent like Prepsol.
3. Use a zinc rich primer like CRC Cold Galvanize (available at most ACE
Hardware stores).
4. Finish with at least two coats of a two part epoxy paint (or maybe Franks suggested bedliner paint).
Rust Areas Checks
Battery boxes
Headlight buckets
F & R turn signal areas
Engine Oil cooler area – flush to hose out gravel & mud when washing car: between tank and rear fender; between tank and inner panel
Rocker Panel drain holes – flush, be sure water flows freely
Door panel drain holes – probe and clean out
Inside rear bumpers
Be sure car’s internal seams dry well in winter
Thyssen steel = steel with Zinc layers on both sides; thickness of the Zinc layers varied from 10 um to 20 um, depending on exposure conditions (Frere, p. 201)
1970 – Galvanized steel (not Thyssen type) used in floor pan and wheel arches (Bob White in Pano V: 142); the “entire platform, including the floor, the longitudinal members, the wheel arches and the seat pans were galvanized.” (Boschen & Barth, p. 124)
1971 models – had galvanized steel in areas particularly exposed to rust (Frere, p. 201)
For MY 70-71, only the floor pan was galvanized, and only in the Reuter built cars. This information can be found in the factory workshop manual, where serial number ranges of cars with and without galvanized floors can be found. – Scott Clark
1972-1973 – Thyssen steel use began (Bob White in Pano V: 142)
1973 – Thyssen steel: rocker panels, inner rocker panels, floor pans, & some other parts (Chuck Stoddard in Pano V: 142)
1975 – Thyssen steel: entire body treated (Bob White & Chuck Stoddard {began in Feb. ’75 production for US cars; earlier for Euro cars – had trouble with paint} in Pano V: 142, 192)
1976 models – had Thyssen steel in entire body except roof (Frere, p. 201)
1977 models – on – had Thyssen steel in entire body (Frere, p. 201); an “important step forward was the use of zinc-coated sheet steel for the manufacture of the entire body structure (except for the coupe’s roof on early production cars). Coated on both sides, this made the structure virtually immune against the formation of rust….” (Boschen & Barth, p. 143)
The Zinc steel added 22 lbs. to the weight of the body structure (Frere, p. 202)
Pano = Panorama volume: page number
Frere = Frere, Paul. 1997. PORSCHE 911 STORY. 6th ed., Patrick Stephens Ltd. Newbury Park, CA.
Boschen & Barth = Boschen, Lothar and Jurgen Barth. 1978. THE PORSCHE BOOK: A DEFINITIVE ILLUSTRATED HISTORY. Argo Books.
Note: the Panorama and Frere comments can be harmonized since most cars for one model year are constructed in the previous chronological year
Rust Treatment
1. Use a wire brush on a drill rather than sand paper. Get ALL the rust removed first. Sand blasting would be better if the area was more accessible, but I don't think that it is.
2. Clean the area with a good prepaint solvent like Prepsol.
3. Use a zinc rich primer like CRC Cold Galvanize (available at most ACE
Hardware stores).
4. Finish with at least two coats of a two part epoxy paint (or maybe Franks suggested bedliner paint).
Rust Areas Checks
Battery boxes
Headlight buckets
F & R turn signal areas
Engine Oil cooler area – flush to hose out gravel & mud when washing car: between tank and rear fender; between tank and inner panel
Rocker Panel drain holes – flush, be sure water flows freely
Door panel drain holes – probe and clean out
Inside rear bumpers
Be sure car’s internal seams dry well in winter
09-17-2015, 07:18 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
That is good info thanks.
Interestingly the only area I don't recall having rust in the 71 back in 77 was the floor pans. The door jams rear section of front fenders rear sections behind doors, headlight buckets battery boxes and torsion tube were already beginning to rust requiring replacement of some parts completely back then.
My 74 914 didn't rust as badly when I purchased it in 96 and it had sat outside under a leaking tarp for 10 years.
Interestingly the only area I don't recall having rust in the 71 back in 77 was the floor pans. The door jams rear section of front fenders rear sections behind doors, headlight buckets battery boxes and torsion tube were already beginning to rust requiring replacement of some parts completely back then.
My 74 914 didn't rust as badly when I purchased it in 96 and it had sat outside under a leaking tarp for 10 years.