an6drew

Hi,
I'm planning to tackle a front shock replacement this weekend (I replaced the rears a few months ago- the old ones were pretty dead). My 82 SC has the sport suspension option (green bilstein struts). The front inserts have a roll pin retaining them at the bottom of the strut but I've also heard talk about a special bilstein tool that fits a notched washer or something at the top of the shock- is this necessary for removing/installing the inserts in bilstein struts, or only applicable for bilstien inserts in boge struts?? Will my inserts simply lift out of the struts when the roll pin is removed?
thanks,
Andrew

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi Andrew:

The tool you refer to is for Boge struts; you do not need such things for Bilstein struts.

To replace Bilstein inserts in a Bilstein strut, all you need is a punch to push the roll pin out and back in. You likely need to give the inserts a firm tug, but they will lift right out.....

Remember to stuff a wad of grease into the strut tube openings to lubricate the bushings that the inserts ride on.

geo.aigel

One more pointer. Commonly it is advised to stick the new roll pin in there with the slot away from the strut insert shaft. This may help prevent failure of the pin. I doubt it would yield with the slot towards the shaft, but the advised positioning is sure the most rugged setting.

And yes, this job is a matter of basic tools. You may have trouble separating things. I found the air hammer to be a saviour for the wedge bolt that holds the strut housing to the balljoint. Make sure you replace that bolt and nut, even if it comes out smoothely.

Cheers, George

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi George:

FWIW,..... you do not need to touch the wedge bolt and remove the strut body when installing new inserts, unless its a wide-bodied (Turbo) car.

One can release the big nut & washer on the upper strut bushing, then compress the cartridge to swing the strut body out far enough to pull the inserts out. Everything just clears a narrow fendered car.

Same for re-installation, of course,...

Bill Pauling

I would second Steve's suggestion. If you pull the clip that holds the hard brake line, you will have just enough slack to clear the fender. I would also suggest that you wrap the strut threads with tape or a rag, as it doesn't clear the fender by much.

geo.aigel

Excellent input. I had replaced ball joints and bushings while I was in there, hence that bolt had to come out. Something to think about when starting on suspension: Mightaswell do it all at once while you are at it.

George

an6drew

Steve/Bill- I replaced ball joints 6 months ago, so hopefully I'll be able to swing the strut out clear of the fenders. My car is lowered (front- 24.75" ground to top of fender arch opening) will this make it more difficult? I know some people keep the wheels on to change out the inserts- i guess it just makes it easier to get leverage???

George- now you mention it i think i remember theres a pic of the recommended roll pin orientation in 101 projects.

Hopefully the new shocks will improve freeway handling. Here in the bay area the roads are pretty bad & my front end wanders through bumpy corners quite badly- steering feels sketchy, as if the front is becoming unweighted contunually. As I have already replacedballjoints, turbo tie rods & wheel bearings I assume its the old shocks causing this (handling is great on glassy smooth windy roads at speeds up to 70 or 80).

cheers,
Andrew

geo.aigel

Andrew:

Few more thoughts:

You might have old bushings in the control arm contributing to the sloppiness. If the shocks don't improve the situation to your satisfaction, put new bushings in afterwards. You can remove the ctrl arm by unbolting the ball joint, so it isn't a big deal to get it out.

The big hard rubber shims on top of the strut housing are door stops or paper weights if you lower the car, according to Bruce Anderson's book. I wish I had read that before doing mine, since mine are still stuck in there. Oh well, I will be in there again soon anyway to put a bump steer kit.

Talking about it, some of your jerky feeling might come from bump steer. Mine is very noticeable.

Cheers, George

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi Andrew:

George offered some good input here, worn bushings permit changes in toe and makes a car wander.

I'll also add that ride height, bump steer, and alignment settings play a huge role. Depending on ride height, you need a bump steer kit in there and a very careful corner-weight job and alignment.

an6drew

My car has considerable forward rake right now (the new rear bilsteins raised the back end ~1/2" to 25"). When I get the new shocks in I'm planning to let them settle a couple weeks, then adjust the front to the height I want as 24.75" is too low- I was thinking more like 25.5" front, leaving the rear at 25" (I think this is Euro spec?). I notice bump steer at the moment (even though I fitted the bump steer rack spacers) which does contribute to the problem. Of course I'll need to get it realigned once the front height is set.

Is there any way to check the condition of the control arm bushings by shaking stuff & feeling for play, or would this not show up?

cheers,
Andrew

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Andrew:

Set the car up with a 1 deg nose-down rake and make sure that your tie-rods are level at your final ride height.

Its difficult to evaluate the rubber bushings and it takes experience to determine if they need replacement. You cannot really feel anything very accurately.

geo.aigel

Andrew:

You can look at the ctrl arm bushings once the arm is out. Then you mightaswell... The old ones are tough to get off since they are molded on by the factory, but with a moderat amount of FIRE it is an easy task. If you look at the profile of a worn bushing (and the back one is worse), you can see that the upper side is squshed.

You need to measure ride height between the center of the torsion bar and the center of the wheel. Fender lip measurements are only guesstimates. Compare to numbers you can find in the bentley or even Dempsey's book (?) to see where you are with respect to euro / US ride height.

Worn strut inserts will make the car sag, no question.

George

an6drew

Quick followup here. I replaced the inserts (finally) this weekend. I'm v. happy with the results so far. On today's test drive the car felt much better through bumpy corners & alot more stable at speed (to the point where I found myself surprised at the pace I was going- felt slower!). The front absorbs the trauma of San Francisco's Third World streets alot better as well- still feels stiff but w/ less rattle & shake. The front is sitting a little higher. i haven't measured it but I would guess the new bilsteins have raised the front 1/4-1/2". I'll drive it for a couple weeks measure & finalise the height then i guess realign.
Cheers for the help. I think I'll be saving the A-arm bushing job for a rainy day sometime in the future.
Andrew

Sonic dB

Andrew...did you do as suggested and just collapse the strut down and under the fender to put the insert in?

This seems like a great idea and time saver..Im gonna do this job myself soon so Im wondering what the easiest way is.

an6drew

Exactly, Sonic. It was all fairly straight forward, although the top nuts were a pain in the *** to get off- the inserts had been replaced at some stage & locktite was used.
cheers
Andrew