MDamen

I have seen the term "reseal" used in some posts when people describe taking the engine out and have seals and gaskets replaced to address oil leaks. What all is involved? Is it stripped down to the short block? Are the heads removed? I have a 72T that leaks oil from all sorts of places, but I'm not sure what route to take to address all the possible sources of oil leaks.

Amber Gramps

Reseal usually describes tearing everything down and splitting the case, cleaning all mating surfaces, then reassembling everything with new sealants, gaskets, and seals.

Before you go that far in check out the "triangle of death".

Drisump

I think there is a fair bit of "poetic license" employed when the term is used. I think chasing down a oil leak and replacing a gasket or seal is often described as a reseal...LOL In theory Amber is correct but I've seen engines that have supposedly been resealed but its very obvious that the case hadn't been split and I'd doubted if the engine had actually been removed from the car. When I bought my 993 it had recently been "resealed". It didn't have any leaks but it was obvious that only the leaking seals and gaskets had been attended to. Cheers

MDamen

Thanks amber lamps. That amount of disassembly sounds really close to a rebuild. I will search on triangle of death. That is a new term for me.

race911

And that's how to sum it up.

So, let's look at a Mg case engine. A "reseal" to me/how I'd describe it to a customer after the engine is stripped to longblock state (intake, exhaust, fan/shroud, flywheel removed.)

1. Valve covers, chain boxes/covers/cam-to-tower seals and gaskets replaced. Note the actual valve covers and chain boxes/covers should be replaced with Al parts if you're still rockin' the original Mg pieces.

2. Oil return tubes/seals replaced.

3. Flywheel seal (rear) and intermediate shaft cover gasket (front) replaced.

4. If MFI engine, MFI cam drive seal replaced.

5. Cam oil feed flex lines replaced.

6. "S" line from oil tank to engine.

7. Pressure test engine mounted oil cooler for leaks, replace if bad.

Now here's where it gets tricky.

7. Separate cam towers from heads to reseal mating surfaces. (Now you're 75% into a top end.)

8. If you've got the heads off, pop the P+C set off and replace the through bolts o-rings and washers.

9. If you've got the above off, take it all the way apart to ensure the mating surfaces of the cylinder to case are flat + deal with the problem 8mm studs present in an Mg case.

10-~57. Fully rebuild engine.

Oh, and don't forget the transaxle input seal. If a pre-'75 915, you've got to bust the whole box down as the factory Einsteins didn't build in an removable clutch guide tube..........

MDamen

Thanks Ken. The engine has not been started in several years. I was planning to get it running then do a compression check to get a feel for the engine condition. Then either launch into a rebuild, or just clean it up and drive it for a while and live with the oil leaks. The engine has enough miles on it that if I took it apart for a reseal, it is not that much further for a rebuild.