Rattle type of engine noise
#1
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Rattle type of engine noise
I know it's hard to diagnose without hearing, however I'm getting this strange rattle type of noise coming from the engine compartment on my '86 Carrera with 82K miles on it. I've placed a long hose at several different locations on the engine and cannot pin point where the noise is coming from (upper valve covers, lower valve covers, central part of engine, rear part of engine, fuel distributor, exhaust area, air box, etc.).
One wrench told me it may be the timeing chain tensioners (I find it hard to believe, however?). What does it sound like if timing chain tensioners are going? Is it a rattle or more of a loud type of noise? Does the noise increase and become louder with higher RPMS? I had tranny work done a year ago with a total rebuild, new clutch and throw-out bearing installed. Could that be the issue. Any input would be appreciated as I'm heading to a new wrench to get their opinion.
Any ideas or opinions would be appreciated.
One wrench told me it may be the timeing chain tensioners (I find it hard to believe, however?). What does it sound like if timing chain tensioners are going? Is it a rattle or more of a loud type of noise? Does the noise increase and become louder with higher RPMS? I had tranny work done a year ago with a total rebuild, new clutch and throw-out bearing installed. Could that be the issue. Any input would be appreciated as I'm heading to a new wrench to get their opinion.
Any ideas or opinions would be appreciated.
#2
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Pressure fed tensioners can fail. If the hydraulic portion fails, they are still held up with spring pressure.
The noise from a collapsed tensioner has been described as a chain dragging across a garbage can, but a hydraulic may not sound this bad if the spring is still keeping the chain somewhat tight.
When I installed Carrera tensioners on my SC, one of the brand new ones was bad (wouldn't hold pressure). It made an ugly rattling sound.
Does it change with engine RPMs? Mine didn't make much noise at idle, but started growling at ~2000 RPMs.
Tom
The noise from a collapsed tensioner has been described as a chain dragging across a garbage can, but a hydraulic may not sound this bad if the spring is still keeping the chain somewhat tight.
When I installed Carrera tensioners on my SC, one of the brand new ones was bad (wouldn't hold pressure). It made an ugly rattling sound.
Does it change with engine RPMs? Mine didn't make much noise at idle, but started growling at ~2000 RPMs.
Tom
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Tom thanks for the reply.
That's what is strange is that the noise does not increase with higher RPMs, in fact as the the normal engine noise increases, I cannot hear the rattle noise. I'm heading over to a different shop in an hour or so to get their opinion if it is something to be seriously concerned about.
That's what is strange is that the noise does not increase with higher RPMs, in fact as the the normal engine noise increases, I cannot hear the rattle noise. I'm heading over to a different shop in an hour or so to get their opinion if it is something to be seriously concerned about.
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Jet, This may or may not be helpful but I had a similar rattle to your description. I even had a p-car wrench tell me it sounded like a chain tensioner going bad.
I ended up going to another wrench(long story) and come to find out it was my rear shocks. They were so bad they rattled. After replacing them I had no more rattle and the car is running great.
Worth checking before tearing into the engine
I ended up going to another wrench(long story) and come to find out it was my rear shocks. They were so bad they rattled. After replacing them I had no more rattle and the car is running great.
Worth checking before tearing into the engine
Last edited by jester911; 09-14-2003 at 06:49 AM.
#6
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Thread Starter
After stopping by a highly recommended shop, the mechanic in about two minutes told me that it was the bearings in my alternator were going. He quoted a price of $600.00 for the repair, which included a new alternator not a rebuilt. How hard is replacing the alternator? Also, I looked on the internet and found new alternators from $400 at Vertex to $550 at Pelican. Are there differences? Are rebuilt alternators a good choice? Can alternators be rebuilt at a local shop and last? Any ideas would be helpful.
#7
Burning Brakes
I just had mine rebuilt at a local rebuilder for $85. The job takes a few hours, but it's not difficult. The toughest part is getting the alternator out of the housing, and the fan off the alternator. It's not a tough job. You might consider sending your fan and housing out for polishing while you have it apart.
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#8
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I too, recently priced a new alternator.
After getting a few (high) quotes from Pelican, Tweeks, and my local $tealer, I lucked out and found a nearby European Auto-Electric shop. They had considerable experience with the Paris-Rhone alternator in my car.
They re & re'd it for $135. However, they would not remove the alternator. That was fine with me, and I brought it to them in a box. Turn-around was 2 days.
After getting a few (high) quotes from Pelican, Tweeks, and my local $tealer, I lucked out and found a nearby European Auto-Electric shop. They had considerable experience with the Paris-Rhone alternator in my car.
They re & re'd it for $135. However, they would not remove the alternator. That was fine with me, and I brought it to them in a box. Turn-around was 2 days.
#9
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the input everyone, it is appreciated! I'll start checking a few Electric shops today to see if anyone here in SLC has had experience rebuilding P-car alternators.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!