Initial maintenance on a 3.2 purchase (1986)
08-04-2015, 12:45 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
UPDATE
Well, good news is the car made it home - 1,000 miles and fairly uneventful. Ran well, shfted well. Now to change the 12 year old tires and 10/30 Quaker State...
She also dumped a fair bit of oil the first night parked. First time on the lift today, looks the the RMS and possibly other seals leaking as well. Was hoping it was just the lower valve covers, but alas, those are dry. What they say is true - cars that sit are often a leaky mess. We'll see.
If in fact the engine is out for the RMS and any other obviously leaking gaskets - are there any seals or items that should be replaced simply as matter of course "while you're in there?", leaking or not? Anything else that comes to minds that should be attended to with direct access to the engine?
Thanks for the suggestions - will share updates on progress. Objective is to get the leaks under control so I can get the car safetied and plated, and then drive it as much as possible for the rest of the summer. Would tackle suspension as a winter project.
Cheers
Matt
She also dumped a fair bit of oil the first night parked. First time on the lift today, looks the the RMS and possibly other seals leaking as well. Was hoping it was just the lower valve covers, but alas, those are dry. What they say is true - cars that sit are often a leaky mess. We'll see.
If in fact the engine is out for the RMS and any other obviously leaking gaskets - are there any seals or items that should be replaced simply as matter of course "while you're in there?", leaking or not? Anything else that comes to minds that should be attended to with direct access to the engine?
Thanks for the suggestions - will share updates on progress. Objective is to get the leaks under control so I can get the car safetied and plated, and then drive it as much as possible for the rest of the summer. Would tackle suspension as a winter project.
Cheers
Matt
08-04-2015, 12:56 PM
#17
If you are pulling the engine, then address:
1. The "triangle of death"
2. Two sensors on the back of the engine (speed and reference).
3. Engine mounted oil cooler O-rings.
The triangle of death is on the back right of the engine and is composed of the oil thermostat O-ring, catch tank breather neck and oil pressure sensor gasket. It is well documented.
Good luck and have fun.
1. The "triangle of death"
2. Two sensors on the back of the engine (speed and reference).
3. Engine mounted oil cooler O-rings.
The triangle of death is on the back right of the engine and is composed of the oil thermostat O-ring, catch tank breather neck and oil pressure sensor gasket. It is well documented.
Good luck and have fun.
08-04-2015, 03:34 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
The oil return tubes (the o-rings on those, more specifically) are well known leak spots on these engines. They can be replaced with the engine in place buy using two-piece replacements. When I got my '85 19 years ago, it leaked because of that, and probably had for a while. I fixed that right away, and it has never leaked since.
Sounds like you got a great car, and the list you gave in the first post sounded exactly right to me.
08-04-2015, 05:48 PM
#20
depending on the miles and how much you want to spend and if you take the engine out...
- new clutch disc
- head studs
-valve guides
- 2nd gear synchro
needed this on my '86 around 106k miles
- new clutch disc
- head studs
-valve guides
- 2nd gear synchro
needed this on my '86 around 106k miles
Welcome
08-05-2015, 12:38 PM
#22
Good list.
Is it running ok right now ? If not, other early areas to check are flywheel speed & reference sensors - if poorly functioning or poorly adjusted these can cause hesitation - and cylinder head temperature probe.
Personal preference - I don't agree with a smaller steering wheel, personal preference. My 86 coupe had a Sparco racing wheel similar to a Momo Prototipo on it when I bought it, which I found too small for road use - steering was so heavy that hairpins (I live near the Alps) & slow manoeuvring were virtually impossible. I swapped it for an OEM 'H' spoke wheel and love it.
Enjoy :-)
Is it running ok right now ? If not, other early areas to check are flywheel speed & reference sensors - if poorly functioning or poorly adjusted these can cause hesitation - and cylinder head temperature probe.
Personal preference - I don't agree with a smaller steering wheel, personal preference. My 86 coupe had a Sparco racing wheel similar to a Momo Prototipo on it when I bought it, which I found too small for road use - steering was so heavy that hairpins (I live near the Alps) & slow manoeuvring were virtually impossible. I swapped it for an OEM 'H' spoke wheel and love it.
Enjoy :-)
08-05-2015, 01:16 PM
#23
Drifting
Well, good news is the car made it home - 1,000 miles and fairly uneventful. Ran well, shfted well. Now to change the 12 year old tires and 10/30 Quaker State...
She also dumped a fair bit of oil the first night parked. First time on the lift today, looks the the RMS and possibly other seals leaking as well. Was hoping it was just the lower valve covers, but alas, those are dry. What they say is true - cars that sit are often a leaky mess. We'll see.
If in fact the engine is out for the RMS and any other obviously leaking gaskets - are there any seals or items that should be replaced simply as matter of course "while you're in there?", leaking or not? Anything else that comes to minds that should be attended to with direct access to the engine?
Thanks for the suggestions - will share updates on progress. Objective is to get the leaks under control so I can get the car safetied and plated, and then drive it as much as possible for the rest of the summer. Would tackle suspension as a winter project.
Cheers
Matt
She also dumped a fair bit of oil the first night parked. First time on the lift today, looks the the RMS and possibly other seals leaking as well. Was hoping it was just the lower valve covers, but alas, those are dry. What they say is true - cars that sit are often a leaky mess. We'll see.
If in fact the engine is out for the RMS and any other obviously leaking gaskets - are there any seals or items that should be replaced simply as matter of course "while you're in there?", leaking or not? Anything else that comes to minds that should be attended to with direct access to the engine?
Thanks for the suggestions - will share updates on progress. Objective is to get the leaks under control so I can get the car safetied and plated, and then drive it as much as possible for the rest of the summer. Would tackle suspension as a winter project.
Cheers
Matt
08-06-2015, 03:08 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
This is my list on my 89. Looks like a lot. Its not really... Car was bought without records but car was very clean, PPI, and my current techs confirmed car has been well maintained. Most of this is basic deferred maintenance, addressing some age safety things, and getting things "current", along with addressing minor issues highlighted in the PPI. All but 3 things I did myself, so just parts costs.
Next on list will be an engine drop for clutch, will adjust valves at that time, deal with a weeping (not dripping) chain cover seal, replace several while in there oil and fuel lines, etc.
Changed oil/filter, M1 15w-50,
New front/rear pads (Porterfield R4S)
new rear rotors (Zimmerman)
new rear brake caliper hardware
new front/rear brake lines
full brake bleed ATE200 gold
inspected & cleaned calipers (seals, pistons, lines all good)
new rears shocks installed Bilstein sport
new AC belt
new fan belt
new fuel filter
new air filter
new driver door seal
new wiper blades
Install new door pin covers
pulled pins switch and cleaned
new driver side (left) rear deck lid shock
interior carpets cleaned / shampooed,
new autozone platinum H6 AGM battery
installed battery terminal covers
detailed inside frunk
replaced driver side passenger*window switch
installed Bilstein Sport front inserts
Removed both rear axles to repair ripped boots, had axles pulled apart, cleaned, and regreased and new German boots installed. Cleaned hub and transmission flange. Installed axles with new transmission flange bolts and new axle nuts. Used nickel anti seize on axles.
Installed new cap, rotor, wires, coil, and plugs.
Bled clutch with ate200, color was very dark brown.
Replaced transmission fluid with mobil1 delvac.
Adjusted ac belt tension*
Installed turbo tie rods
installed OEM sport engine mounts
installed new OEM sound mat
balanced front/rear wheels
new front bearings races seals Torco grease
full alignment and setup & adjust ride height
underbody wheels off steam cleaning and engine cleaning
Next on list will be an engine drop for clutch, will adjust valves at that time, deal with a weeping (not dripping) chain cover seal, replace several while in there oil and fuel lines, etc.
Changed oil/filter, M1 15w-50,
New front/rear pads (Porterfield R4S)
new rear rotors (Zimmerman)
new rear brake caliper hardware
new front/rear brake lines
full brake bleed ATE200 gold
inspected & cleaned calipers (seals, pistons, lines all good)
new rears shocks installed Bilstein sport
new AC belt
new fan belt
new fuel filter
new air filter
new driver door seal
new wiper blades
Install new door pin covers
pulled pins switch and cleaned
new driver side (left) rear deck lid shock
interior carpets cleaned / shampooed,
new autozone platinum H6 AGM battery
installed battery terminal covers
detailed inside frunk
replaced driver side passenger*window switch
installed Bilstein Sport front inserts
Removed both rear axles to repair ripped boots, had axles pulled apart, cleaned, and regreased and new German boots installed. Cleaned hub and transmission flange. Installed axles with new transmission flange bolts and new axle nuts. Used nickel anti seize on axles.
Installed new cap, rotor, wires, coil, and plugs.
Bled clutch with ate200, color was very dark brown.
Replaced transmission fluid with mobil1 delvac.
Adjusted ac belt tension*
Installed turbo tie rods
installed OEM sport engine mounts
installed new OEM sound mat
balanced front/rear wheels
new front bearings races seals Torco grease
full alignment and setup & adjust ride height
underbody wheels off steam cleaning and engine cleaning
08-07-2015, 11:03 AM
#26
Intermediate
Another good reason why we have to meet beside being almost neighbours!!! Welcome to 1986!!!!
Well, good news is the car made it home - 1,000 miles and fairly uneventful. Ran well, shfted well. Now to change the 12 year old tires and 10/30 Quaker State...
She also dumped a fair bit of oil the first night parked. First time on the lift today, looks the the RMS and possibly other seals leaking as well. Was hoping it was just the lower valve covers, but alas, those are dry. What they say is true - cars that sit are often a leaky mess. We'll see.
If in fact the engine is out for the RMS and any other obviously leaking gaskets - are there any seals or items that should be replaced simply as matter of course "while you're in there?", leaking or not? Anything else that comes to minds that should be attended to with direct access to the engine?
Thanks for the suggestions - will share updates on progress. Objective is to get the leaks under control so I can get the car safetied and plated, and then drive it as much as possible for the rest of the summer. Would tackle suspension as a winter project.
Cheers
Matt
She also dumped a fair bit of oil the first night parked. First time on the lift today, looks the the RMS and possibly other seals leaking as well. Was hoping it was just the lower valve covers, but alas, those are dry. What they say is true - cars that sit are often a leaky mess. We'll see.
If in fact the engine is out for the RMS and any other obviously leaking gaskets - are there any seals or items that should be replaced simply as matter of course "while you're in there?", leaking or not? Anything else that comes to minds that should be attended to with direct access to the engine?
Thanks for the suggestions - will share updates on progress. Objective is to get the leaks under control so I can get the car safetied and plated, and then drive it as much as possible for the rest of the summer. Would tackle suspension as a winter project.
Cheers
Matt
08-07-2015, 09:10 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Engine is out for confirmed RMS leak (Niagara Falls). Clutch is due too, so will attend to this now as well as other seals.
Will button it back up, get it safetied/plated and drive it a bit.
Will button it back up, get it safetied/plated and drive it a bit.
Last edited by Matt Lane; 08-30-2015 at 09:03 PM.
08-08-2015, 07:07 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just digging through the records that came with the car. The eye opener was that the total mileage by the PO (my father in law) was just 5,000KM (3K miles).
OVER 12 YEARS!
That explains a lot...
Other than oil changes, with 5W30 no less, the car has had:
- New pads, not clear whether front only.
- New clutch and PP, flywheel resurfaced - shocking to find it nearly worn out this fast...
- Speed and reference sensors replaced.
- DME relay
- ill fitting new battery in 2008.
Gonna be a project...
OVER 12 YEARS!
That explains a lot...Other than oil changes, with 5W30 no less, the car has had:
- New pads, not clear whether front only.
- New clutch and PP, flywheel resurfaced - shocking to find it nearly worn out this fast...
- Speed and reference sensors replaced.
- DME relay
- ill fitting new battery in 2008.
Gonna be a project...