Shocks for '83 Euro SC
03-11-2015, 06:01 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Shocks for '83 Euro SC
Saving me some research time, i'm looking for suggestions on new shocks for my '83 SC
The vehicle is used for track, autocross and casual street driving. It currently has about 10-15 year old Koni adjustable shocks, the fronts are inserts for the Boge struts. My plan is to change out the shocks at all four corners and add new struts as the current ones are original and one may be slightly bent.
I can't find evidence of the torsion bars being upgraded but the sway bars are stiffer and adjustable. All bushings throughout are stiffer than OEM but not solid.
I want to retain a firm suspension for track and will accept a harsher street ride
The Bilstein sport shocks being considered unless there is a better option
Thanks
The vehicle is used for track, autocross and casual street driving. It currently has about 10-15 year old Koni adjustable shocks, the fronts are inserts for the Boge struts. My plan is to change out the shocks at all four corners and add new struts as the current ones are original and one may be slightly bent.
I can't find evidence of the torsion bars being upgraded but the sway bars are stiffer and adjustable. All bushings throughout are stiffer than OEM but not solid.
I want to retain a firm suspension for track and will accept a harsher street ride
The Bilstein sport shocks being considered unless there is a better option
Thanks
03-11-2015, 08:57 PM
#2
I think you've answered your own question.
I just street in my '83 so put Bilstein HD's in the rear and stock Boge's up front...wouldn't want any firmer than that.
Unless you can get something that you can dial in dial out.
I just street in my '83 so put Bilstein HD's in the rear and stock Boge's up front...wouldn't want any firmer than that.
Unless you can get something that you can dial in dial out.
03-11-2015, 10:53 PM
#3
Drifting
Go for Bilstein Sports all around ... they make a version for Boge struts as well as Bilstein struts ... best price i found was from Elephant Racing,cheaper than Pelican.
As far as your "bent" strut goes,you will find out pretty quick once you go for an alignment,positive side is that used Boge struts are a lot cheaper to replace than the Bilsteins !
There are more expensive options but the Sports will serve you well ...
Cheers
Phil
As far as your "bent" strut goes,you will find out pretty quick once you go for an alignment,positive side is that used Boge struts are a lot cheaper to replace than the Bilsteins !
There are more expensive options but the Sports will serve you well ...
Cheers
Phil
03-12-2015, 12:12 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
Sports off the shelf are OK......but for a few bucks more work with a suspension expert who can have them revalved to spec and you will get 85-90% of what a multi-adjustable offers for 10% of the price. Key is working with a torsion bar chassis suspension expert.
03-12-2015, 04:06 AM
#5
RL Technical Advisor
JMHO,......
Bilstein's off-the-shelf valving leaves something to be desired and especially their Sport shocks. I've found them to be unnecessarily harsh with too much bump and not enough rebound valving. For this reason, I do recommend having a custom re-valve if its in the budget since both ride quality & handling are noticeably improved.
If this isn't possible, I would recommend HD front and Sport rears and especially when larger torsion bars are installed.
If the car is lowered below 1" from stock, I would also recommend either having the spindles raised or using RSR struts (which are already raised 18mm).
Bilstein's off-the-shelf valving leaves something to be desired and especially their Sport shocks. I've found them to be unnecessarily harsh with too much bump and not enough rebound valving. For this reason, I do recommend having a custom re-valve if its in the budget since both ride quality & handling are noticeably improved.
If this isn't possible, I would recommend HD front and Sport rears and especially when larger torsion bars are installed.
If the car is lowered below 1" from stock, I would also recommend either having the spindles raised or using RSR struts (which are already raised 18mm).
03-12-2015, 08:29 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
JMHO,......
Bilstein's off-the-shelf valving leaves something to be desired and especially their Sport shocks. I've found them to be unnecessarily harsh with too much bump and not enough rebound valving. For this reason, I do recommend having a custom re-valve if its in the budget since both ride quality & handling are noticeably improved.
If this isn't possible, I would recommend HD front and Sport rears and especially when larger torsion bars are installed.
If the car is lowered below 1" from stock, I would also recommend either having the spindles raised or using RSR struts (which are already raised 18mm).
Bilstein's off-the-shelf valving leaves something to be desired and especially their Sport shocks. I've found them to be unnecessarily harsh with too much bump and not enough rebound valving. For this reason, I do recommend having a custom re-valve if its in the budget since both ride quality & handling are noticeably improved.
If this isn't possible, I would recommend HD front and Sport rears and especially when larger torsion bars are installed.
If the car is lowered below 1" from stock, I would also recommend either having the spindles raised or using RSR struts (which are already raised 18mm).
On the Pelican forum someone mentioned a combo of Bilstein HD front and Olin rears ( not the remote charged ones) still looking for answers
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03-12-2015, 11:57 AM
#8
I have Bilstein sport with Boge struts as well on my 86' Carrera. I have 16" Fuchs and the car is lowered as well. I'm very happy with this setup. The car handles great and I never fell like the ride is too harsh. I do not track the car but I like to drive fast 😊.
03-12-2015, 02:09 PM
#9
Just a different take here... what are your track driving goals with the car?
I always say what is good for the track is bad for the street, and vice-versa, and anything in-between sucks at both.
Just a data point here, I have a full PCA race-prep SC, and it is so slow at DE that I'm going to retire it.
My advice. Do a nice street setup, use the car for DE to learn how to drive and have fun... a killer suspension will not make you a better driver.
I had by Bilsteins rebuilt/revalved for about $100 per (in 2002....) and they worked fine... but you need to determine what T-bars you have. Also, what tires do you use?... Lots of variables here.
Adjustable sway-bars do not enter into the equation, as they are adjustable.
Bushings are also important.... lots of cheap poly "performance" bushings (neatrex, remember them?) really suck as they are harsh, noisy and bind up the suspension.
If budget allows, and your bushings are shot, the Elephant Racing bushings really are nice... they are pricey, (but installation is the larger cost, so don't be cheap) stable, quiet, and really tighten up the handling, but do increase harshness a bit.
Suspension is a total system. All the pieces must work together, so I'd set very defined goals, talk with a good shop, and do the whole thing at once.
I always say what is good for the track is bad for the street, and vice-versa, and anything in-between sucks at both.
Just a data point here, I have a full PCA race-prep SC, and it is so slow at DE that I'm going to retire it.
My advice. Do a nice street setup, use the car for DE to learn how to drive and have fun... a killer suspension will not make you a better driver.
I had by Bilsteins rebuilt/revalved for about $100 per (in 2002....) and they worked fine... but you need to determine what T-bars you have. Also, what tires do you use?... Lots of variables here.
Adjustable sway-bars do not enter into the equation, as they are adjustable.
Bushings are also important.... lots of cheap poly "performance" bushings (neatrex, remember them?) really suck as they are harsh, noisy and bind up the suspension.
If budget allows, and your bushings are shot, the Elephant Racing bushings really are nice... they are pricey, (but installation is the larger cost, so don't be cheap) stable, quiet, and really tighten up the handling, but do increase harshness a bit.
Suspension is a total system. All the pieces must work together, so I'd set very defined goals, talk with a good shop, and do the whole thing at once.
03-12-2015, 06:20 PM
#11
Bilstein hd is what what was oe on 930 an Carrera, They work well for those
To improve them get a custom re-valve, work w/ a shop that knows 911s, Bilstein San Diego can also give you some guidance
If you want a the best modern non adjustable shock out there get a digressive re-valve, It is great for the track but also works great on the street, It will take away all the harshness and leave the control.
To improve them get a custom re-valve, work w/ a shop that knows 911s, Bilstein San Diego can also give you some guidance
If you want a the best modern non adjustable shock out there get a digressive re-valve, It is great for the track but also works great on the street, It will take away all the harshness and leave the control.
03-14-2015, 03:51 PM
#12
RL Technical Advisor
Bill,
Bilstein tells me they don't do any digressive valving on the '89 & older cars; this is only offered for 964 & newer ones.
This is why its so damned important to get the rebound & bump values correct for best ride & handling.
Bilstein tells me they don't do any digressive valving on the '89 & older cars; this is only offered for 964 & newer ones.
This is why its so damned important to get the rebound & bump values correct for best ride & handling.
03-15-2015, 12:31 PM
#13
a b6 or b8 internal is essentially the same 36mm or 46mm gut whether it is used on a 911, 964 or 993
Here are the valve choices, the rod guide and seal has also been standardized for the 2nd and 3rd generations of these shock bodies
03-15-2015, 06:12 PM
#14
RL Technical Advisor
Next time I speak with him, I'll push a little bit to find out if they would do a set for me on a custom basis.