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ok, good. Let us know what you find. Any don't even think about unscrewing the big plug for the main thermostat insert using the slot in it. Simply won't work.
Hey everyone I replaced my thermostat and it seems to have done the trick. Once engine is warm the oil lines are hot so the thermostat is working. Also the oil pressure came down once it does warm up. The car is running great. Thank you everyone for the help. Now I am back on the search for some 8x16 fuchs wheels.
If the front t-stat were stuck shut, one of the lines would likely be warm and the other cold.
If both lines are cold, then the t-stat on the engine is likely stuck shut.
Scott, I think that the oil line t-stat being stuck would have both lines being cold. The onboard t-stat won't influence the oil lines.
Originally Posted by upier
The high oil pressure seems to support the bad thermostat theory. That is one of the reasons why you don't go over 4k before the car is warm, high oil pressure before the therm opens.
The engine operating pressure would not go up with a bad t-stat. Oil pressure doesn't open the stat, temp does. THE reason you don't go into high RPM's is to allow the motor to warm up evenly, and get all the metal bits into temp equilibrium.
Just another note, typically an over-heating car will thin the oil and pressure will go down.
Wow, it seems that the oil cooler thermostat is like a $400 part. Were you charged about that much by your mechanic?
Seems like an example of a crazy price for a simple part.
Are there any alternatives to buying an OEM Porsche 'stat?
How common is it for this part to fail?
it is not a cheap part .. but then again you are not driving a cheap car, thay can and do fail from time to time on some cars. not really enought data to predict a probability though.
This is why there are so many threads on pelican about this. Sometimes you are into other specialized hardware and oil lines too.. they can get damaged or cut off during removal.
sure, some are beyond repair. The nice thing about the cap however is that it is like the thermostat body itself out of aluminum. So no bad contact corrosion like with aluminum and steel. The trick to remove the cap with the thermostat in place is using the biggest possible pipe wrench. The trick when the thing is removed from the car is using a fine saw blade and carefully saw the metal gasket between the thermostat body and the cap. This will remove the tension and the cap can be unscrewed relatively easily. As you said, if they are heavily corroded, nothing will help.
sure, some are beyond repair. The nice thing about the cap however is that it is like the thermostat body itself out of aluminum. So no bad contact corrosion like with aluminum and steel. The trick to remove the cap with the thermostat in place is using the biggest possible pipe wrench. The trick when the thing is removed from the car is using a fine saw blade and carefully saw the metal gasket between the thermostat body and the cap. This will remove the tension and the cap can be unscrewed relatively easily. As you said, if they are heavily corroded, nothing will help.
Any tips on getting off the flex line from the stat that goes to the hard line ?
i just dropped my engine and was thinking about replacing this line that goes to the external stat ( SC ) but looks challenging. the flex end is "sweating "
the only tip I have for that one is using a Dremel and cut (or almost cut) thru the nut. Then use a larger screwdriver and break the nut open. I would not even try to turn the steel nut on the aluminium regulator body with any kind of wrenches. It will almost guarantee to ruin the threads.
11-24-2014, 02:47 PM
