Did you….raise spindles? How many mm?
#1
Nordschleife Master
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Did you do it? If so, how much and what purpose is the car for track/canyons/garage queen.
Clint at Rebel Racing suggested 28mm. I'm headed up to his neck of the woods in a few weeks and will be bringing the Bilsteins with me.
Clint at Rebel Racing suggested 28mm. I'm headed up to his neck of the woods in a few weeks and will be bringing the Bilsteins with me.
#2
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I've seen posts about going to 40mm on dedicated track cars. That 28mm sounds right. I think Ruby was at 26mm and my car is going to just be up 12mm because she is strictly a street car.
#3
I haddah Google dat
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I bought Bilstein RSR struts, then changed out the cartridges with Sports.
The reason I did was because after lowering, the front of the car would hit the bump stops like a fart can ricer mobile. I have long since forgotten how many mm they are raised. I want to say 15mm or maybe 10mm? Also, the spindles have been reinforced with gussets on both sides. This makes the steering very precise, and I feel a good combination with turbo tie rods.
They are perfect for me IMO. The car is used for city driving, but mostly for long runs out of town. The roads from here to the central Cali coast, and parts of So Cal and the SF Bay Area have really bad road surfaces, and you can feel the shocks really working to smooth out the way the car handles. There is this one really huge bad bump in the #1 lane on I-580 near Pleasonton however, that launched me airborn a few times. You can't feel it in the Chevy Blazer, but you'd think the wheel got torn off in the 911.
![](http://img292.imagevenue.com/loc21/th_09241_L1020644a_122_21lo.jpg)
![](http://img182.imagevenue.com/loc242/th_09244_rsr_strut1_122_242lo.jpg)
The reason I did was because after lowering, the front of the car would hit the bump stops like a fart can ricer mobile. I have long since forgotten how many mm they are raised. I want to say 15mm or maybe 10mm? Also, the spindles have been reinforced with gussets on both sides. This makes the steering very precise, and I feel a good combination with turbo tie rods.
They are perfect for me IMO. The car is used for city driving, but mostly for long runs out of town. The roads from here to the central Cali coast, and parts of So Cal and the SF Bay Area have really bad road surfaces, and you can feel the shocks really working to smooth out the way the car handles. There is this one really huge bad bump in the #1 lane on I-580 near Pleasonton however, that launched me airborn a few times. You can't feel it in the Chevy Blazer, but you'd think the wheel got torn off in the 911.
![](http://img292.imagevenue.com/loc21/th_09241_L1020644a_122_21lo.jpg)
![](http://img182.imagevenue.com/loc242/th_09244_rsr_strut1_122_242lo.jpg)
![](http://img20.imagevenue.com/loc466/th_09246_rsr_strut2_122_466lo.jpg)
#7
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Thanks for the info. Clint at RR pointed out that 28mm was good for street/track and it can still fit 16".
I've reset my priorities and started back on the 911 project a month or so ago. I'll kick start the old targa thread in the next few weeks once the parts I've been waiting for for a friggin month (Driving me nuts!) and I've go more than one or two photos.
I've reset my priorities and started back on the 911 project a month or so ago. I'll kick start the old targa thread in the next few weeks once the parts I've been waiting for for a friggin month (Driving me nuts!) and I've go more than one or two photos.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I bought Bilstein RSR struts, then changed out the cartridges with Sports.
The reason I did was because after lowering, the front of the car would hit the bump stops like a fart can ricer mobile. I have long since forgotten how many mm they are raised. I want to say 15mm or maybe 10mm? Also, the spindles have been reinforced with gussets on both sides. This makes the steering very precise, and I feel a good combination with turbo tie rods.
They are perfect for me IMO. The car is used for city driving, but mostly for long runs out of town. The roads from here to the central Cali coast, and parts of So Cal and the SF Bay Area have really bad road surfaces, and you can feel the shocks really working to smooth out the way the car handles. There is this one really huge bad bump in the #1 lane on I-580 near Pleasonton however, that launched me airborn a few times. You can't feel it in the Chevy Blazer, but you'd think the wheel got torn off in the 911.
![](http://img292.imagevenue.com/loc21/th_09241_L1020644a_122_21lo.jpg)
![](http://img182.imagevenue.com/loc242/th_09244_rsr_strut1_122_242lo.jpg)
![](http://img20.imagevenue.com/loc466/th_09246_rsr_strut2_122_466lo.jpg)
The reason I did was because after lowering, the front of the car would hit the bump stops like a fart can ricer mobile. I have long since forgotten how many mm they are raised. I want to say 15mm or maybe 10mm? Also, the spindles have been reinforced with gussets on both sides. This makes the steering very precise, and I feel a good combination with turbo tie rods.
They are perfect for me IMO. The car is used for city driving, but mostly for long runs out of town. The roads from here to the central Cali coast, and parts of So Cal and the SF Bay Area have really bad road surfaces, and you can feel the shocks really working to smooth out the way the car handles. There is this one really huge bad bump in the #1 lane on I-580 near Pleasonton however, that launched me airborn a few times. You can't feel it in the Chevy Blazer, but you'd think the wheel got torn off in the 911.
![](http://img292.imagevenue.com/loc21/th_09241_L1020644a_122_21lo.jpg)
![](http://img182.imagevenue.com/loc242/th_09244_rsr_strut1_122_242lo.jpg)
![](http://img20.imagevenue.com/loc466/th_09246_rsr_strut2_122_466lo.jpg)
#10
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28 sounds pretty aggressive. Ruby's were moved 25mm, and you may recall she was pretty low. Bump steer was a non-issue with her. Then again, 3mm is less than 1/8".
I was wondering if the Targa had vaporized....
I was wondering if the Targa had vaporized....
#12
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I liked how Ruby sat so I think the 28 will work well.
#13
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33 mm
bump steer corrected (spacers)
auto-cross/canyon about 60/40 %
limited to 17" rims - might be an issue for some
low, but not stupid low - front tow loop things scrape a bit on moderate driveways, else fine
Consider having your Bil's re-valved to match up w/ your torsion bars if they are non-stock
bump steer corrected (spacers)
auto-cross/canyon about 60/40 %
limited to 17" rims - might be an issue for some
low, but not stupid low - front tow loop things scrape a bit on moderate driveways, else fine
Consider having your Bil's re-valved to match up w/ your torsion bars if they are non-stock
#14
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
33 mm
bump steer corrected (spacers)
auto-cross/canyon about 60/40 %
limited to 17" rims - might be an issue for some
low, but not stupid low - front tow loop things scrape a bit on moderate driveways, else fine
Consider having your Bil's re-valved to match up w/ your torsion bars if they are non-stock
bump steer corrected (spacers)
auto-cross/canyon about 60/40 %
limited to 17" rims - might be an issue for some
low, but not stupid low - front tow loop things scrape a bit on moderate driveways, else fine
Consider having your Bil's re-valved to match up w/ your torsion bars if they are non-stock
#15