Oil Ines and Cooler
12-12-2013, 08:47 AM
#1
Racer
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Oil Ines and Cooler
My SC sat for about 10 - 12 years before I acquired it as a "barnfind" (so to speak) I'm having to do a lot of work on it to get it back road-worthy and currently have the engine out (head studs). Here's the question: (Pardon me if this seems like a dumb one, but I've not seen it addressed anywhere.)
Should anything special be done regarding cleaning (blowing out, whatever) the oil lines and cooler before reinstalling and firing up the engine. I should note here that the oil I drained from the engine and the inside the engine itself were clean as can be; no engine failure debris or anything. Should I just leave the cooler and lines as they are, install the engine and run it?
Along the same line, what precautions should be used if the front to rear cooler lines and cooler are empty? Any way to pre-fill them?
Should anything special be done regarding cleaning (blowing out, whatever) the oil lines and cooler before reinstalling and firing up the engine. I should note here that the oil I drained from the engine and the inside the engine itself were clean as can be; no engine failure debris or anything. Should I just leave the cooler and lines as they are, install the engine and run it?
Along the same line, what precautions should be used if the front to rear cooler lines and cooler are empty? Any way to pre-fill them?
12-12-2013, 05:05 PM
#2
I'd go with what you have, fresh oil etc., and run the car for a few hundred miles and change it out.
You'll have enough oil in the sump/tank even if the lines and cooler were bone dry which I doubt.
If you really wanted to check it out you could pull the trombone (guessing that's what you have-front cooler) and check the oil.
The cooler/lines aren't open until the thermostat opens at 190-195 and then you can check your level (engine running fully warm level ground yada yada and right at 1/2 the dipstick).
You'll have enough oil in the sump/tank even if the lines and cooler were bone dry which I doubt.
If you really wanted to check it out you could pull the trombone (guessing that's what you have-front cooler) and check the oil.
The cooler/lines aren't open until the thermostat opens at 190-195 and then you can check your level (engine running fully warm level ground yada yada and right at 1/2 the dipstick).
12-12-2013, 07:34 PM
#3
uninformed gas bag
(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
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(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
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If you feel confident that head studs were the only problem then dont flush or change anything. Thinking like that means you shouldn't even put new fuel in it. Fuel wasn't the problem...right?
But...since it was a "barn find" and you don't know it's history why would you leave it to chance.
But...since it was a "barn find" and you don't know it's history why would you leave it to chance.
12-13-2013, 08:18 AM
#4
Racer
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Thanks for the input. I don't know what the issues were, if any, that caused the car to be parked. The inside of the engine is fine (except for the studs - two, #3 rear, top and bottom) and the oil I drained was clean and appeared to have been freshly changed.
Fuel was an issue but only because it was parked with about 3/4+ tank and it sat for so long. Toasted the tank and lines.
Fuel was an issue but only because it was parked with about 3/4+ tank and it sat for so long. Toasted the tank and lines.
12-13-2013, 11:09 AM
#5
If the old oil looked good and the engine was 'clean' no problem that I could see.
When 'we' change our oil most of the oil in the lines/front radiator or trombone stay in place.
There is enough new oil to dilute the remains.
When 'we' change our oil most of the oil in the lines/front radiator or trombone stay in place.
There is enough new oil to dilute the remains.