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I am about to replace my brake light switches on the master cylinder on my 83SC. Is there anything that Might help this job go easy ? I have been told that if I keep my finger in the fitting during the switch out I can limit the fluid loss and therefore saving me from having to flush the brakes. I read elsewhere that it is not a fun job due to the location of the switches.
Any other suggestions or recommendations ?
Thanks.
Chuck
I know I will catch much flack on this but here goes. I replaced both of the switches on my car and did exactly as you stated. Be advised I had the switches ready to go. Needless to say the hardest is the rear one, but once I removed the duct work I had more room. Climb into the trunk with all needed tools and go for it. I took me a total of ten minutes once I started. I did not loose one drop of fluid and EVERYTHING works as it should.
PS; Once I finished the job the warning light on the dash stayed lit. I couldn't figure it out and someone in our group advised me to disconnect the battery for a minute or two. All is fine.
I don't see how this can be done without ending up with a small air bubble at the switch thread opening. Air bubbles compress dramatically when you depress the brakes reducing your braking effectiveness.
Since we're talking of the pressure side of the system I don't see how the air bubbles can be readily removed absent bleeding.
Originally posted by emac Chuck
I know I will catch much flack on this but here goes. I replaced both of the switches on my car and did exactly as you stated. Be advised I had the switches ready to go. Needless to say the hardest is the rear one, but once I removed the duct work I had more room. Climb into the trunk with all needed tools and go for it. I took me a total of ten minutes once I started. I did not loose one drop of fluid and EVERYTHING works as it should.
PS; Once I finished the job the warning light on the dash stayed lit. I couldn't figure it out and someone in our group advised me to disconnect the battery for a minute or two. All is fine.
I am sure I will catch hell as well, but I did it the same way as Ernie and had no issues. Brake light never came on though.
For some reason, I couldn't keep a switch from going bad in less than 6 mos. This was on a '77 Targa. It was located way up under the cowl on the MC. I assume the one you are talking about is similar. Anyway, over the period of ownership, about 15 years, I must have put a baker's dozen in there 1/12th of a turn at a time. Ten minutes each; I got to where I could do one dressed to go out to dinner if that is when I discovered the lights not working. And I never bled the brakes. I'm not saying don't bleed the brakes, I'm sure it's a good idea.
I got my switches replaced yesterday ! I had no problems, I used my finger to keep any fluid from leaking out during the swap out and my brake lights now work fine and I have no problems with my brakes. I did not have the ability to do a flush on my brakes. I did a search here and on pelicanparts and would like some advice on the best way to flush the brakes at home for the least amount of money.This is my next project.
Thanks.
Chuck,
Get a Power Bleeder. They are around $50 from Pelican or any number of other parts suppliers. I did my brake light switches as well, after I purchased a Power Bleeder. I did the entire job by myself and the bleeder made the job very easy. I changed the switches then bled the lines two times, then unhooked the bleeder and had my kid hop in the car and we did the final time around (third) using the pedel method. The bleeder can be used on several other vehicles as well if you get their universal kit.
I spoke to two indepenedent Porsche shops on the phone today and they both said that flushing the brakes is not necessary when changing out the brake light switches. My car is in the shop getting the switches replaced right now and they are not planning on flushing the brakes.
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