URO parts DME relay FAULTY
10-02-2013, 06:16 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
URO parts DME relay FAULTY
Email sent to URO parts/APA Industries:
You should RECALL all DME relays.
I have 2 at the moment and both failed out of the box due to poor soldering techniques/procedures during manufacturing.
In both products the 2 relays were not fully inserted through the circuit board allowing solder to flow over, bubble up, the connection and never bond electrically.
Second, not enough heat was used to get the solder to adhere to the relay metal frame/armature.
I needlessly spend many hours over 2 days thinking the new DME relay I purchased to replace the failed factory was good.
That relay had a poor solder connection from pin 30 to the back side, solder side, of the circuit board.
Once I found that the URO DME relay that I had just purchased was faulty I purchase a second one and my engine fired right up.
But..
In opening the second one I noted the very same manufacturing flaws.
So I desoldered both relays from the 1st purchase and carefully re-soldered them. It took a high power soldering gun to get a good electrical bond to the relay frame, armature connection since there is so much metal heat sink to heat up.
I'm going to stay with the relay that I "remanufactured" and put the second one aside as a spare.
You should RECALL all DME relays.
I have 2 at the moment and both failed out of the box due to poor soldering techniques/procedures during manufacturing.
In both products the 2 relays were not fully inserted through the circuit board allowing solder to flow over, bubble up, the connection and never bond electrically.
Second, not enough heat was used to get the solder to adhere to the relay metal frame/armature.
I needlessly spend many hours over 2 days thinking the new DME relay I purchased to replace the failed factory was good.
That relay had a poor solder connection from pin 30 to the back side, solder side, of the circuit board.
Once I found that the URO DME relay that I had just purchased was faulty I purchase a second one and my engine fired right up.
But..
In opening the second one I noted the very same manufacturing flaws.
So I desoldered both relays from the 1st purchase and carefully re-soldered them. It took a high power soldering gun to get a good electrical bond to the relay frame, armature connection since there is so much metal heat sink to heat up.
I'm going to stay with the relay that I "remanufactured" and put the second one aside as a spare.
