Hey guys,

While browsing the depths of the internet, found this picture of this lowered 930 running what looks to be 17" or 18" wheels, and it just looks fantastic.



So how do I get that look on a '82 SC? The reason I'm asking is I know the 930's have different suspension bits depending on the year, as well as I'm not really sure if torsion bars can go that low. Would I have to go to coils and all the turbo tie rod/bump steer kits and all that? Any details on wheel/tire size fitment that would work is appreciated too.

P.S. I'm considering 11" or even 14" RSR flares down the road... where the heck do you find 18" wheels with a deep enough offset or lip to be able to fit the car without crazy spacers? I've been trying to find some after I saw this picture but its tough to do without getting a $3k custom set.

 

Hi,

There are two ways of doing this:

1) Lower the car to get the look you want with the wheels & tires you will use. This is really simple & inexpensive since your car can be lowered to suit.

Or

2) Install a proper suspension system that preserves complete travel and corrected bump steer for best handling and ride quality. Needless to say, this avenue will require an investment in resources to do this properly.

The exact choice of parts & components really depend on how the car will be used: street only, street and track, track only.

My advice is to have the desired wheels & tires already on hand when you install larger flares so your body shop can fit & position them properly. You can have wheels made in whatever widths & offsets you want.

 

Okay, so I actually can go that low with the suspension I have, it will just ride somewhat crappy. Thats understandable and easy (don't worry, I have read the million "lowering" threads on here).

I'm not opposed to spending a few thousand on coilovers, I think that would be way cool. It would be a street car only, occasional track use but plenty of spirited driving

I would be doing the bodywork myself. But yes the wheels are definitely a future issue. I'm really trying to avoid a custom (expensive) set if possible.

 

I won't expand Steve's excellent advice above, other than to say if you're fine riding on the bump stops crank those torsion bar angles down as far as you like. Oh, and you're now wildly outside the parameters in which the factory designed the suspension to operate............

("Coilovers" have nothing to do with this conversation.)

 

So.... It will ride REAL crappy is what you're saying

 

As Led Zeppelin once said: "There are two paths you can go by......"

One involves simply re-indexing torsion bars. Let's call this Sophomore Autoshop and a sure fire way to destroy your entire car.

The other is quite a bit more involved and shouldn't even be considered doable for under $4,000 and a more realistic number may be closer to $7,000 for just suspension components. Let me direct you to the ultimate in Pr0n sites:

http://www.elephantracing.com/index.htm

For example here is the page I have spent dozens of hours studying:

http://www.elephantracing.com/suspen.../911struts.htm

Before you ever start down that road however may I urge you to be 100% certain that everything else on your car LIKE YOUR BRAKES are 100% perfect. The car in the picture is ill equipped for daily driving. The negative camber in the rear of that car is dangerously excessive even with the wide tires.

 

WOAH. That much, really? I thought I saw coil conversions for a total of around $3k, but I must've been reading wrong.

This article talks about this guy's suspension in the 9th paragraph, approximately. He is still on the torsion bars but has (this is a complete guess) about $3k just in those dampers and new torsion bars and all that. http://www.stanceworks.com/2012/12/a...k-porsche-911/

So, that said to say, is this going to be one of those "to do it right" is going to cost a pretty-dang-beautiful penny no matter how you do it kind of things?

 

And handle poorly to boot!!!

 

You REALLY don't want (or even need!) coilovers unless you are committed to installing a complete & triangulated roll cage into the car to stiffen the chassis.

 

Nope. I don't like that idea hahahah. I want to keep the interior as stock as possible. I guess the car will just have to stay at its ROW ride height and I'll ditch the RSR fender idea before I get to exited about it :'(

 

Do you own a drill press and a welder? One of my next projects is to raise my spindles on the front struts. It's going to cause a lot of heads to explode around here. It is a project that has a Total Cost Involved of $zero if kept less than 19mm so the bump-steer isn't out of control. Bump steer can be managed with a simple set of rack spacers (really thick washers and longer bolts). Or you can go full ***** deep and raise them 40mm and need bracing and a bump adjustment kit for the tie rods.

Personally I'm gonna go no more than 12mm as it's still just a street car.

 

Unfortunately I don't weld (not really sure why), but that is a good idea to keep things cheap. I would love to do it.

I would love to make this car as slammed as possible, but even if I went crazy with 40mm and a bump steer kit I would still have the same ride/handling issues.

I guess I just have to buy a 964 to go as low as I really want to



(....okay, maybe thats a LITTLE too far)

 

A tad too far....maybe a smidge anyway.

 

Different strokes, I guess.

 

That car is all about looks, and not about handling. It needs to be a bit higher, and the proper attention to springs, shocks and spindles to make it proper.

The 964 is just stupid low.