Turn signal switch
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Is there a fix for this switch rather than installing a new switch?
As you can see by the photo, that the tab does not stick out far enough to cancel.
Yes, the switch is turned "on".
As you can see by the photo, that the tab does not stick out far enough to cancel.
Yes, the switch is turned "on".
![](http://www.bytephoto.com/photopost/data/500/medium/turn_signal.jpg)
Last edited by bcgreen; 06-08-2013 at 11:12 AM.
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I will try your tip.
How long ago did you do this modification?
Its hard to imagine that a piece of heat shrink would last but maybe a couple to turns before the heat shrink would get knocked off.
#4
Team Owner
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
the 944 is a little bit different maybe but i actually wrapped the actuator on the wheel , not that little nub on the switch .. worked for 8 years
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here is my actuator, if you're calling the plastic tab on the wheel itself an actuator.
So, you think I should put heat shrink or electrical tap around the plastic tab (actuator)?
Sorry for the dirty picture, I've cleaned it since.
So, you think I should put heat shrink or electrical tap around the plastic tab (actuator)?
Sorry for the dirty picture, I've cleaned it since.
![](http://www.bytephoto.com/photopost/data/500/medium/turn_signal1.jpg)
Last edited by bcgreen; 06-13-2013 at 09:00 PM.
Trending Topics
#10
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
944? You can bring some 944 M-Jetronic knowledge here.
I'm battling a periodic no-start. I'm thinking (after talking to Doug) that it's the fuel check valve. Fuel pressure was good yesterday, but reading 12psi today. Either the gauge is bad, or the check valve is sticking part way open. Fuel delivery is good, and mixture is .97 ~ 1.03 lambda. Anyway, I'll start a thread about it after the new check valve arrives.
I'm battling a periodic no-start. I'm thinking (after talking to Doug) that it's the fuel check valve. Fuel pressure was good yesterday, but reading 12psi today. Either the gauge is bad, or the check valve is sticking part way open. Fuel delivery is good, and mixture is .97 ~ 1.03 lambda. Anyway, I'll start a thread about it after the new check valve arrives.
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
May have to go with a new switch if this fix doesn't work. Isn't replacing them somewhat of a major undertaking? About how many hours on your first attempt at replacement?
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
#13
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
No, replacing the switch is not that bad. You've got the worst part out of the way, which is removing the steering wheel. If you do go that route, then remove the light switch instead of trying to figure out the wires behind the dash. You'll need a pair of snap ring pliers on the switch retaining ring (to unscrew it from the dash side). Then let the switch hang down and replace the other plugs and stuff under the dash. Probably a 30-40 min job. Dont mess with the hazzard switch, just work around it. It'll break if you try to remove it.